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Re: 1997 Dodge Neon DOHC
I did reply to that on the original question. It's kind of a long reply, otherwise I would type it out again.
It basically says, the 12 55 code is different from the original one you posted, and gave some other things to look at.
If you've checked the timing and it's right, you had something else fail in there. When a timing belt breaks (and depending on how fast the motor was turing at the time it broke) you might have some other damage that is confusing the computer.
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Most major auto parts stores will connect a code reader to the plug the vehicle has-----it will read the error for the Check Engine and also can clear the check engine--does not fix the problem but the error code read will indicate in a general way why the light came on---my experience here is first hand---most of the time it will be a error related to the emission control system.
Get the code read and take it from there.
There are other good experts here so with the code post again if need further help.
A drive cycle is a test that the on board computer performs while you drive the car to prove out all the systems on the car that control tailpipe emissions, if it finds a problem it will trigger a check engine light and and the drive cycle will not complete. The correct name of this is the "OBD2 ELECTRONIC ENGINE CONTROL DRIVE CYCLE TEST". "OBD2" is short for On Board Diagnostics generation 2. The test is just driving the car at various speeds, stop and go traffic and idle time, make sure you have at least 5 gallons of gas in the tank as well. Many folks disconnect the battery to clear a Check Engine light when a smog is due, this resets the computer (known as the PCM) and then you must complete a OBD2 drive cycle, which of course will turn the Check Engine light back on.
A check engine light means that an error code has been sent to the PCM. The light won't just go off. You have to fix the problem and then clear the codes. But first you have to have the codes read to know what to fix. You can go to any major parts store and have the codes read for free. Then you come post the code[s] here for me to see and then I can assist you from there. The code could be minor or major but you won't know until they are read.
If you have any comments please feel free to leave them here.
Thats not a valid obdII code. Thats actually an error from the scanner itself not understanding the data that was sent.. I would clear the code and see if it returns. If it does find someone with the proper code scanner for a CAN system.
You will require an error code reading machine, Which can be bought from car auto stores at low prices, You only need a cheap one to read the current error codes if you are sure everything has been fixed then clear error codes saved onto car system, However investigate each error code so you don't keep resetting the light when its coming on due to a fault with the engine.
This could be due to a malfunctioing coolant sensor. It is located near the thermostat housing. It may be stuck in cold operation mode. You are probably getting bad gas mileage too. Make sure air filter is clean too. Good luck!
Yup, I'd have to agree if all those things check out. Funny I thought there must have been more to the question, when all it asked about was switch noise & codes. Anyway, sounds like you've checked everything, right down to power at solenoid terminal when key cycled to start, so That would be my next step.