The problem is up at the Master Cyl............It comes ou of the firewall and points DOWN at about a 45 deg angle.....The reservoir is remote and the hose is set to the lowest point of the cyl...........The tube TO the slave is 180 deg around facing bottom........... Take the master cly OFF the firewall.......tilt it so that both inlet and outlet are the HIGHEST point of the cyl........Gravity bleed or vacula the slave.........then reinstall the master I know it sounds like a lot of work but it's the easiest way to clear the air out of Ranger/Explorer hydraulics
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Where is clutch engaging? close to firewall or up high on pedal. If up high, your clutch needs replacing, Low, your clutch is ok, maybe throwout bearing is bad or air in system or not adjusted correctly
if the clutch is hydrolic,sorry,there is really no adjustment. Hydriloc clutch master cylinders can be a ****** to bleed the air out and it could just take an afternoon of you and a buddy bleeding it. And remember, bleeding a clutch is different than bleeding breaks. It is a slow and time consuming process. If the pedal problem has been going on for some miles, you could also have a bad synchroniser in your trans preventing proper engaugement
I would check for a restriction between the Clutch Master Cyl. & the Clutch Slave Cylinder. I don't know if it's cold where you are but I've experienced a few Clutch slave cylinders that seemed to freeze, leak out & then continue to leak until replaced. Undoubtedly due to moisture in the systems. You could have a helper assist you in bleeding the slave cylinder, if you notice resistance at first, there could be something in the line from when the previous Master cylinder went bad that just got lodged in the system & didn't show up until now.
If you have no pressure whatsoever, lodging isn't the issue, attempt to bleed the system & then look for leaks at the boot of the slave cylinder. This will also confirm that the Clutch Master Cylinder is functioning properly.
Make sure the slave cylinder body is attached firmly, then bleed the air out of the hydraulics--similar to bleeding brake lines. Watch the clutch mechanics while someone operates the clutch, (engine off) you should see definite movement. If you get movement and no clutch action, you may have to reappraise your clutch installation. Hope this helps!
On a Ford Ranger you need to have the clutch master cylinder facing up when you are looking at it mounted on the vechile it is pointing down you need to have it facing up and also have a bleeding tool I went out and bought a POhoenix Injector which makes it real easy and you can do it buy your self. Good luck
Ok you want to check if your slave cylinder is bled and that is the pressure plate. However, the clutch may have pressure, it dose not always engage the clutch all the way witch would cause a slamming of the clutch. Anothing thing is to check is that if you have had your clutch changed recently make sure that the proper clutch has been in staled because there are a couple diffrent choises out their. If thats not it all I can think of is your slave cylinder fluid is low. You can use a hand held brake vaccum bleeder to do this as well and it removes a bunch of the air.
Bleeding a clutch properly removes all the air from the clutch line. You want to remove the air through the master cylinder at the top of the clutch system rather than through the bottom by pumping the clutch pedal. Pumping the clutch will not remove all the air. Bleeding the clutch on a Ford Ranger will take about 20 or 30 minutes.
Raise your truck 6 inches off the ground with a jack. You can drive the truck on ramps if you have them. Lifting the truck will make it easier to bleed the clutch I promise.
Use a turkey baster to **** the brake fluid out of the brake fluid reservoir located at the top of the master cylinder.
Fill the pump style oil can with brake fluid and attach the flex line to the opening on the oil can. Use a new can. You do not want to pump dirt particles or another fluid into the clutch line. This is just good practice I think.
Pump the flex line with brake fluid to remove all the air. You do not want to add additional air to the clutch system.
Open the bleeder valve located on the internal cylinder with a 7mm wrench and quickly attach the flex line to the valve. I believe this is the wrench you need this is what the size of my ranger is but yours may differ. (Remember the slave cylinder may be inside the transmission bell housing.)
Pump the can to move brake fluid up the clutch line. Stop when you no longer see bubbles coming out of the brake fluid reservoir. It should take about 5 minutes to remove all the air from your system.
Use the wrench to close the bleeder valve and remove the flex line from the bleeder valve and this should complete your job.
I hope you have the best of luck with this project!
First remove the clutch reservoir top. Make sure the rubber stopper/bladder is in the cap when removed. Next locate the clutch line that goes into the tranny just aft of the bell housing. There should be a bleed screw, if so open it slightly. If no screw, than loosen the line where it attatches in. Next fill the clutch reservoir and watch till it leaks out on the tranny end. Once thats noticed, close the screw/line and recap reservoir. pump clutch pedal, and repeat bleed steps at least once more to ensure all air is out. remember to fill clutch fluid up to operating levels.