Mk 4 polo blumotion.Rear wash not working. It drops screen wash to the rear of the front nearside wheel.Guess the hose has disconnected. Can you get to it easily or is it a garage job? Eric

first off what does that mean? 91 command trac system.
1: light dead in dash. ( means squat)
2: shift lever will not move. (i guess its ok)
3: tires actually do not turn on 4 ends of axles. (guess fails)

we cant guess, what tests fail, you must say.
do you have drive on the front prop shaft,
from transfer case to the front axle.?
91 books are hard to find, but alldata.com does cover it.
ever read the FSM or alldata.com its there.
my guess is you are saying the shift motor is dead/. that it?
this?



if yes, did you do the steps in the FSM book yet>? read it?

1. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
2. Disconnect the vacuum harness and connect a hand vacuum pump to the front port. Apply 15 in. Hg (381mm Hg) of vacuum to the front port and rotate the right front wheel to fully disengage axle shafts.
3. The shift motor should maintain the vacuum applied to the front port for a minimum of 30 seconds. If the motor does not maintain the vacuum, replace it. If the motor does maintain vacuum go to Step 4.
4. Connect the vacuum pump to the rear port. Cap the port for the indicator lamp switch and apply 15 in. Hg (381mm Hg).
5. The shift motor should maintain the vacuum applied to the rear port for a minimum of 30 seconds. If the motor does not maintain the vacuum, replace it. If the motor does maintain vacuum go to Step 6.
6. Remove the cap from the port for the indicator lamp switch and determine if vacuum is present. If present, the shift motor is functioning properly. If not, proceed to Step 7.
7. Apply 15 in. Hg (381mm Hg) of vacuum to the shift motor rear port. Rotate the right front wheel to engage the axle shafts. The axles must be completely engaged!
8. Determine if vacuum is present at the port for the indicator lamp switch. If present, the shift motor is functioning properly. If not, replace the shift motor.

tests: this is just a vacuum servo , called a motor by jeep, its not a motor of any kind its a vacuum servo actuator.
it can be removed and bench tested, easy. just like all servos

Lift Vehicle and place on axle stands. Remove wheels. Disconnect the lower control arm from the bolts that hold the ball joint, or from the knuckle. Undo the rear two bolts that hold the ''D'' shaped rear bush and the bolt that holds the forward bush. Have it pressed out and replace with new one. Reverse the procedure for installation. While the arm is out check the condition of the ball joints and replace if needed. After assembly have the front wheel alignment checked.

sounds like it just turned 100,000 miles. Check the heater hose under the dash. Check fuses first.

air in the lines- need bleeding, and /or replace the brake light it may affect your gauges.

Mk4 Brake and clutch fluid change and bleeding

First time I've done this on the R and after hearing various scare stories of it taking a while or being a tricky job involving Vag-com etc I thought I'd share my experience today.

Firstly you will need:

7mm spanner - front bleed nipple
11mm spanner - rear bleed nipple
9mm spanner - clutch bleed nipple
length of clear hose - makes clutch bleed easier
Eazi-Bleed Pressure Bleeder - because pedal pumping is for women
2 ltr brake fluid - Halfords Hi Perf 5.1 for me, run it in race cars and it works
spare wheel - for the Eazi-Bleed
R32 compressor - it's in the boot...keep that spare wheel at the right pressure

Ok, this is an easy job to do and very satisfying when done right, improved braking and clutch pedal motion...it should take you no more than about 1.5 hours all in and you should use around 1.5ltr of fluid.

Start off by connecting up the Eazi-bleed as per the instructions, making sure your spare wheel (I used the space saver from my Jag) is at 14.5-15psi. Once you've attached it to the reservoir and are sure there is no hissing (leaks), disconnect the tyre and fill the eazi-bleed with your new fluid. Re-attach tyre to build pressure.


Starting at offside side front, remove wheel, locate bleed nipple, remove cap, attach length of hose (directed at pan/bowl/jug), use the 7mm spanner to loosen the nipple just enough so the fluid starts to flow through. Don't open it too much and always keep an eye on the eazi-bleed bottle not getting too low on fluid). Keep an eye on the fluid coming through the pipe and when bubbles (there shouldn't really be any) have stopped and the fluid seems clear and clean. Tighten up the nipple.



Repeat the process, with front nearside, rear offside, rear nearside...eachtime checking the eazi-bleed bottle (topping up when needed as per instructions) and the condition of the fluid. You should use around 1ltr on the brakes as you're flushing the rubbish dot 4 as well as bleeding them.

With that all done, locate the bleed nipple for the clutch. It's right between the battery and engine and fairly accessible. Again, remove the nipple, fit your pipe, then loosen around 1/4 turn to see the fluid come out fairly quickly..you may want to fill up the eazi-bleed before starting this as it'll take about 500ml to do.

Pump the clutch pedal by hand, it'll go straight to the floor...it's normal. Pump it around 15-20 times keeping an eye on the EB bottle, you should notice some pressure come back to the pedal although it still won't return itself without you pulling it up.

Tighten up the bleed nipple, making sure when you remove the pipe to not get any on your car or paintwork. Disconnect the tyre, replace the reservoir cap and go test your silky smooth clutch.



Complements of this site

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1983-86 Models

1. On 4-door sedan, remove the package tray and vent duct.
2. On hatchback, remove the speaker grilles.
3. Disconnect the brake line from the wheel cylinder. CAUTION
   Brake fluid contains polyglycol ethers and polyglycols. Avoid contact with the eyes and wash your hands thoroughly after handling brake fluid. If you do get brake fluid in your eyes, flush your eyes with clean, running water for 15 minutes. If eye irritation persists, or if you have taken brake fluid internally, IMMEDIATELY seek medical assistance.
   
4. Remove the brake line from the brake hose.
5. Disconnect the brake hose from its bracket on the shock absorber.
6. Loosen, but do not remove, the nut holding the suspension support to the shock absorber.
7. Unbolt the shock absorber from the rear arm.
8. Unbolt and extract the shock absorber from the body. To install:
   
9. Attach the shock absorber to the body and tighten the 3 nuts to 17 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
10. Engage the shock absorber bracket with the carrier and install the hardware. Tighten the nuts to 119 ft. lbs. (162 Nm).
11. Tighten the center suspension support nut to 36 ft. lbs. (49 Nm). There is a bearing located under the suspension support dust cover. Remove the dust cover and pack the bearing with multi-purpose grease. Once packed, reinstall the dust cover.
12. The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten each component to specifications.
13. Have the rear wheel alignment checked.

1987-88 Models

1. On wagon models, remove the toneau cover holder.
2. Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts, raise the rear of the vehicle and support it safely. Block the front wheels.
3. Remove the rear wheels.
4. Using the proper size flare nut wrench, disconnect the backing plate hardware.
5. With a flare nut and a back-up wrench, disconnect the brake tube from the brake hose and use a small plastic container to collect the brake fluid.
6. Undo the clip and disconnect the brake hose from the shock absorber. NOTE: Before the axle bolts are removed, the axle carrier must be supported with a jack.
   
7. Support the axle carrier with a floor jack and remove the mounting bolts and nut. Disconnect the axle carrier from the shock absorber.
8. Support the shock absorber firmly by hand and remove the three mounting nuts. Remove the shock absorber from the body. To install:
   
9. Position the shock absorber onto the body and support it firmly by hand. Install the three nuts and tighten them to 23 ft. lbs. (31 Nm).
10. Attach the axle carrier to the shock absorber with the nuts and bolts. Tighten the nuts to 166 ft. lbs. (226 Nm).
11. The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten each component to specifications.
12. Bleed the brake lines as described in Section 9.
13. Have the rear wheel alignment checked.

1989-96 Models

1. On the 4-door sedan, remove the package tray and vent duct. On 1992-96 models, it will be necessary to remove the rear seat back.
2. On the hatchback, remove the speaker grilles.
3. On the wagon models remove the tonnue cover and rear seat back.
4. Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts, raise the rear of the vehicle and support it safely. Block the front wheels.
5. Remove the rear wheels.
6. Disconnect the brake hose and the ABS speed sensor from the shock absorber.
7. If equipped with ABS, disconnect the Load Sensing Proportioning Valve (LSPV) spring from the lower arm.
8. Disconnect the stabilizer bar link from the shock absorber.
9. Support the rear axle and loosen the 2 bolts from the lower end of the shock absorber.
10. From inside the vehicle, unbolt the upper support. Fig. 1: A rubber cap covers the rear shock absorber tower nut
    Fig. 2: The upper shock absorber tower is retained by the center nut (circled) and three surrounding nuts
    
    
11. Lower the rear axle carrier and remove the two bolts.
12. Remove the shock absorber from the vehicle. To install:
    
13. Install the shock absorber assembly onto the vehicle.
14. Connect the brake hose and the ABS speed sensor to the shock absorber.
15. Connect the stabilizer bar link to the shock absorber.
16. Install the wheel and tire assembly.
17. During installation, please observe the following tighten specifications:
    1. Tighten the shock absorber-to-body bolts to 29 ft. lbs. (39 Nm).
    2. Tighten the shock absorber-to-axle carrier nuts to 166 ft. lbs. (226 Nm) on 1988-91 vehicles and 188 ft. lbs. (255 Nm) on 1992-96 vehicles.
    3. Tighten the suspension support-to-shock absorber nut to 36 ft. lbs. (49 Nm) on 1988-91 vehicles. On 1992-96 models, tighten the stabilizer bar link to shock absorber retainers to 47 ft. lbs. (64 Nm).
18. Install the rear seat back, vent duct and the package tray as required.

The steering knuckle and some of the front end components are probably bent or damaged, yes, it will be expensive.

I blieve it's the same pump taht runs the rear and front washers.

The windshield washer comprises the following parts:

• Windshield washer reservoir, below the front left-hand fender
• Washer pump, on the outside of the washer reservoir
• Two washer nozzles on the hood/bonnet, adjustable.

---------------------------------------------------------
Windshield Washer Pump and Reservoir Removal
All vehicles

1. Remove the windshield washer reservoir filler neck.

1. Raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .

1. Remove the right-hand fender splash shield (wheel shown removed for clarity).

1. Remove the washer reservoir.
   • Disconnect the electrical connectors.
   • Pull off the hoses.

1. Remove the windshield washer pump with rubber gasket (shown with reservoir installed).
   1. Disconnect the electrical connector.
   1. Disconnect the hoses.
   1. Lift out the pump.

Gravity bleeding doesnt usually work real well.

Get a clear jar of some type, and a piece of 1/4 inch vacuum hose about 18 inches long. Put about 2 inches of new brake fluid in the container.

Start at the passenger rear wheel, losen the bleeder, slide the hose tightly over the open bleeder, the other end in the jar where you can see the hose end.
Fill master cylinder reservoir.

Pump brake no more than 4 times, watching the hose end in the jar for bubbles. After 4 pumps, check reservoir, refill. Pump 4 more times. Watch for bubbles. Check reservoir, pump 4 more times. If you see bubbles at any time, then keep going through the above steps until you stop seeing bubbles.

Go to rear wheel, tighten bleeder. Go to driver rear wheel, and do the same thing, although this time it won't take but 4-6 pumps to purge any air.

Go to passenger front, repeat.
Go to driver front, repeat.

Do not recycle any of the fluid.

cylinder is stuck in caliper strip and renew the seal and clean out the groove in the piston where the seal sits