2007 Ford Freestyle Limited Logo
Anonymous Posted on May 02, 2011

Just replace rear rotors and brake pads on my 2007 Ford Freestyle. took it out for a test drive to the store and it seemed fine. On the way back from the store they started making this loud scraping noise. What can this be? If it is the caliper sticking is there anything I can do to fix it without replacing the calipers?

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Rich Notarianni

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  • Posted on May 06, 2011
Rich Notarianni
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On an '07, it's probably not the caliper. You may just have a stone or some dirt stuck inbetween the pads and the rotor. I've seen this many times, and all it requires is to take it apart again and clean the rotors off. However, while you have it apart, check to see if everything appears to be in its proper place, because if the pads were not seated properly, one of the pads could have came loose and may be rubbing up against the rotor flange. Good luck.

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dj_relly999

dj_relly999

  • 4070 Answers
  • Posted on May 02, 2011

SOURCE: just replaced rear rotors and brakes on my 2007

Hello and welcome to FixYa!

I suspect that it's the caliper. It may need to be adjusted since it's new. It may have been set too tight and adjustment is really necessary.
Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!

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2007 freestyle rotor warping

Inspect the wheel hubs for flaws in the rotor mounting surfaces that could prevent rotors from seating properly. Also, check the wheel bearings for slop, roughness or other signs of wear. If the bearing does not rotate smoothly and keep the rotor on center, the rotor will wear unevenly. (Also, pay attention to unusual rumbling sounds when cornering or sudden jerks while braking; these indicate possible wheel bearing problems. The jerking may be caused by the bearing locking up momentarily when the brake changes it load forces.)

Another thing to look at if the problem recurs: take a quick peek at the instrument panel to see if the low traction warning is on. If it is and the road conditions are good, the anti-lock braking system has a false trigger condition. This could be caused by an off-center rotor or a sensor fault. The hard part is identifying which wheel has the problem
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Just changed rear pads and rotors on my 2000 chev blazer..after test driving rear brakes were hot and smoking...brake pads seem to be sticking..are the calipers shot or do I need hoses or both?

  • Well when you looked at the brake pads after your drive were the pads stuck to the rotor?
  • First thing to do is double check your pad and rotor installation.
  • Also check to make sure the right parts were installed.
  • When you pushed back the pistons on your calipers did they flow back nice and smooth? Did they wedge in and get stuck? This would make the pads drag.
  • If you used grease did you get some on the pad by accident? If this is the case it will burn off.

  • How is the car stopping for you? Properly? Do you hear any grinding while driving slow? While driving fast? Over heating rotors will turn a bluish stain. That is when it is really time to be worried.
  • If your brakes are not dragging then give some time for the pads to ware in.
  • If the piston is stuck forcing the pads against the rotor all the time then you need to replace the calipers.
  • Don't forget to bleed the lines afterword.

Regards, Tony
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Just replaced rear rotors and brakes on my 2007 ford freestyle. took it to the store for test drive after and everything seemed to be working properly. when I left the store, I started hearing this...

Hello and welcome to FixYa!

I suspect that it's the caliper. It may need to be adjusted since it's new. It may have been set too tight and adjustment is really necessary.
Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!
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No, but could be pad knock back which can be caused by run out of the rotors. This can happen if your pads have worn down too far in the past. I'd advise you to have the rotors ground (on the car) and new pads fitted. The fronts are critical but have the rears checked for run out too. Sometimes new seals in the calipers can help hold the pads against the rotors.This will improve the loss of pedal condition.
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no just change pads one side at a time when you finish start car and lightly pump pedal till you have a full pedal
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Most Fords I've worked on have a screw-in rear caliper design. Look at the caliper piston - do you see two notches on the face, across from each other? Those are the keyholes for screwing the piston back in. AutoZone rents/loans the piston retractor tool (leave them the full value of the kit, about $40, take it home and use it, then return it and get 100% of your money back). Simply fit the proper sized key disc onto the tool and screw it back into the caliper, and you're done.
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