The front wheel can be shaken and moves around a quarter inch, maybe an eighth of an inch. This only happens if I viciously put both hands on the wheel and force it to move. The other wheels remain quite stable if I attempt the same motion. I have removed & retightened the wheel and can hand-tighten each wheel lug to make sure there is no misalignment of the wheel tightening. The wheel bearing is greased and the cotter pin in place and bearing cap refitted. The wheel was secure and driving was normal and nice tight steering. On reinspection the wheel was again able to be felt to shake and visibly move very slightly. I can stand on the wheelbrace to ensure it has been tightened securely but still can detect a slight movement if I shake the wheel. . WHAT ELSE SHALL I CHECK ??
Good job, sounds like you got it going your way.
SOURCE: cant seem to tighten the fan belt or the one in front of it
You have a Bad Tensioner. Replace it and it will tighten.
SOURCE: 1985 Nissan 300zx power steering hard
I'd love to help, but none of my service manuals show your car having variable assist power steering. Even '86 and '87 don't have it. The electrical connection you see at the pump, is a power steering pressure switch. All it does is tell the ecm that the engine is under load at idle when you crank the wheel hard and it bumps the idle up a bit so you don't stall the engine, but that's all it does. If you like, I can send you two wiring diagrams depicting the all underhood electronics, but I think you probably have a bad rack and pinion. Seems like a common problem from the small amount of checking I did.
SOURCE: The steering wheel tightens and then the engines
wow that dosent sound good. does the vehicle have any aftermarket electronics in it ? like remote start or cruise control? i would do an inspection under the hood and dash and make sure nothing is rubbing or wraped around the steering colum.
SOURCE: how tight do i tighten front wheel bearing on 1996
Using a torque wrench, tighten the nut to 12 ft lbs. once all is back together new grease, clean bearings, and such. Tighten to 12 ft lbs. and turn the wheel and tap (tap on the outer edge of the disk) with a hammer as you turn it. Recheck the nut at 12 lbs. Then loosen the nut till it is just loose, no more, use your hand not any tools tighten the nut as tight as you can to align the nut with the cotter pin hole and Install a new cotter pin, and set it. Put on the cap and done.
SOURCE: How do I change a bearing in the right front
Yes it will be. The wheel bearing on this vehicle is a sealed bearing that is pressed into the knuckle. The knuckle will need to be removed from the vehicle and brought to a machine shop to have the bearing pressed out and the new one pressed in.
The knuckle is not difficult to remove. Separate the outer tie rod from the knuckle then the lower ball joint. Remove the axle nut. Remove the caliper and rotor, and then the knuckle to strut bolts.
It is really common for these to wear out the hub (the part with the wheel studs in it). You may be able to find a hub and bearing kit in the aftermarket or you may have to get a hub from the dealer. You won't know until the hub is separated from the bearing.
Once it is back together is is vitally important that the axle nut is torqued to the proper spec. Failure to do this will cause the new bearing to fail prematurely. I will also suggest getting a good quality bearing. Not necessarily the most expensive but one from a reputable supplier.
I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa
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I found the problem was the front shock absorber was worn out and the seal around the strut (or shaft) was broken and allowed movement and hence this was a dilema but resolved with new Tokico HP shocks front & rear and the car drives great . c",)
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