Dear,
Try this,
disconnect the negative battery terminal and then hold the ignition key in the start position for atleast 20 seconds, this will wipe out all stored codes in the PCM. Reconnect the negative battery terminal and drive, if the code shows up again then it is time to go to the dealer. Depending on miles this should be covered under warranty, because it has to with emmisions.
regards,
dont rete untill u satisfied.
Let me start by saying that my profile says computers, however, I was a mechanic for years. Developed arthritis, and had to find a different career that wasn't so ******* my hands.
The way the timing belt system is designed on these, when the belt breaks or jumps time, it generally causes damage to the valves. I'm also going to recommend a compression check to see if one or more valves were damaged. If you have damaged valves, then this could be the cause for the rough running and the timing code. Start with a compression check and let me know. We'll go from there.
I'm not sure about number 3, 35psi is alot to be out. General tolerance is 10 to 15psi, and 15 is pushing it. It may not be a bent valve, but definitely a bad seat. Another thought on this might be the crankshaft sensor. It relays the position of the crank to the ECM for the correct fire at the correct time, so if the sensor is bad, it could give a false reading in making the system think the timing is off, when really the spark is off.
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Where are you reading the error codes from, a meter? Or just counting the number of flashs on the dash light?
I'm wondering if you are just getting an incorrect error code read.
If you can run the dash light test, and let me know what you find, I have a list of read outs (to long to post the whole list here)
To check from the dash
1. Cycle the ignition key ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON within 5 seconds. To cycle the ignition key ON means to turn it only as far as it takes to get the radio to come on. It does not mean to turn the engine on.
2. Count the number of times the "check engine" lamp on the instrument panel flashes on and off. The number of flashes represents the code. There is a slight pause between the flashes representing the first and second digits of the code. Longer pauses separate individual codes. For example, flash-flash-flash [pause] flash-flash represents the code 32.
That does make a difference.
The 12 code is Direct battery input to PCM was disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles.
The 55 code is End of error messages (if you get this only, no error codes were found)
So now that is cleared up, lets go back to your problem.
You said it runs rough until warm, or at higher speeds. This sounds like it could be a vacuum leak, or a head gasket leak (once it's warm, metal expands and would seal a small leak)
So my next step would be to do a compression test. Since it did break a belt, it may have casued additional damage. A compression test will confirm or deny this.
Once you get that base step established, I would begin looking for other leaks. If the intake manifold is leaking, that would cause it to run rough at low speed, and throw off the computer readings, which could cause the dash light to come on.
These systems have to be in complete bablance to have the computer read "happy".
Since you have checked and rechecked the timing marks, and they are right, time to take it a step further. Having a timing belt break can cause a number of other problems that are "hidden" because the computer can't read it right.
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Try this website www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/dodge/
The piston should never reach the tip of the spark plug. It sounds like you have a bent valve that hitting into plug and bending/breaking it. You might have luck simply replacing the 2 valves on the cylinder where you're seeing the problem, else be safe and replace all 8 valves. However, this does require removing the cylinder head.
this is the site
donot bother about the company name is different same type of problem is solved here and many more problem about the cars are solved with proper answers just chech it out and go through
http://en.allexperts.com/q/Mitsubishi-Repair-824/indexExp_48014.htm
Alright, let me make sure that you have them lined up for the timing marks. The crankshaft gear should have an arrow lining up to an arrow on the block, correct? Then the camshaft gears should have a line on a tooth that lines up between two dots on the engine block for each gear. If anything, possibly your camshaft gears were loosened and offset. It is also possible that the timing belt when being broken could have then caused damage to the engine but please first get back to me on the timing marks again.
Most dodge vehicles have two drilled in dots per camshaft gear to line up the line on the camshaft. I am not totally familiar with this exact engine but it seems that instead of the dots you have an arrow or a line for the camshafts to line up between as the two camshafts should not have their lines pointing at each other to line up
have you tried resetting the error code at all since you replaced the belt? Try unplugging the negative battery terminal for a minute and plugging it back in.
Have you tried resetting the code?
Have you tried resetting the code yet?
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Possible causes are:
Crankshaft position sensor incorrect install/ alignment.
Camshaft Position sensor """""""".
Camshafts relative position not relearned after servicing.
Let me know if this helps!
Brian
Hi
You need to check the status of your Crankshaft position sensor and your Camshaft position sensor first.
Be sure they were not moved/adjusted/replaced etc during previous service.
Brian
Here are instructions for "relearning" after timing belt replacement, you will need a DRB scan tool.
Connect scan tool.
Turn ignition on, access "miscellaneous screen"
Select RELEARN/CRANK option on DRB.
Good luck,
Brian
Did you investigate the message that I sent previously.
Brian
I would take the vehicle to a place (like Autozone) where they will read the code for free. That way you can be sure what code you are actually getting. You may have more than one code, and until we know all or the correct code, it is difficult to accurately troubleshoot!
Brian
I believe that the code 1255 may be incorrect. PLEASE use a code reader to correctly verify what code(s) may be present!
Then we can properly diagnose your vehicle!
Brian
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Best site for repairing cars
http://www.ptdoityourself.net/tl/tl_indexmain.html
http://www.2carpros.com/kpages/auto_repair_manuals.htm
http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c152800cc71c
hope this may help;
Regards,
VOTIT
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I may have missed something but the answer I received didn't even have anything to do with the question I ask. This person has something to do with Watches and electronics nothing to do with Dodge Neon?s from what I could tell.
Thanks
ChrisMue
The crankshaft gear arrow pointing to the arrow on the block is correct.
The camshaft gears have a line on a tooth that lines up with each other is also correct however the manual I have (Haynes) say's nothing about dots on the engine block.
I think someone has this problem mixed up with a different problem. I have not said anything about the plugs. The plugs are fine and the engine is running too good to have bad valves in it.
The error code that I am reading from the check engine light reads 1255.
I have cycled it twice just to make sure that I read it right the first time.
Thank you for trying to help.
ChrisMue
I received a number of answers yesterday but, none of them answered the question and my problem remains.
Sorry it took so long to get back to you but was called out of town.
I have done the compression test and the findings were good enough to rule out bent valves I think.
#1 200 PSI
#2 200 PSI
#3 165 PSI
#4 205 PSI
I know the number three is a little low however I think it is high enough to rule out a bent valve right??
I would like to think you for trying to help I normally don?t have very many things in cars that give me problems but this one has really been a mind blower.
ChrisMue
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