In 2007, my car would not crank consistently in the heat. We replaced the coils and the distributor. Now here we are a year later and my husband was driving home but had to keep giving it gas at red lights to keep it running. It stalled and would not crank. A mechanic told us it was the distributor, plugs and wires. The cost $700. We towed it home. A friend of ours who is a mechanic thinks it may be the fuel pump or the fuel pump relay. We do not have a manual and need to know if this is 1) the possible problem and 2) where is the relay located as it is not labeled under the hood.
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Re: Cuts off at red light
You MUST check the fuel pressure when the problem is present, it may be the problem, the fuel pump is in the fuel tank, and is very time consuming to replace, do the fuel pressure test first to verify the problem is or isn't the pump.
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Start with the ignition coil. It should have power to it with key on. Should be battery voltage on the primary circuit to the coil-that's the coil positive terminal. If the coil is good, it could be a bad ignition module-the module cuts primary current to the coil when commanded by the engine computer.
It could be several things-fouled plugs, bad plug wires, cracked distributor cap, bad rotor, crank sensor or pick up coil (inside the distributor), pcm. Test the ignition coil, or try a known good coil.
check the small earth ******** the baseplate under the points in the distributor and make sure its still soldered to the plate. iff thats all good it may be the ballast resistor between the coil and the distributor.
Test the ignition system output, ignition systems can vary in configuration but operate on the same principal. Ignition systems can consist of a coil, pick up coil, crank angle sensor, cam angle sensor, spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, ignition rotor and a distributor and any variations of these components. An ignition coil is a voltage stepper coil that transforms a low voltage (12 volts) signal into tens of thousands of volts needed to jump the gap of the spark plug.
This coil is activated by an ignition module triggered by using the camshaft/crankshaft angle sensor; timing is adjusted by the PCM (computer).This primary electrical signal is generated by the PCM which calculates spark timing by using a variety of sensors including coolant temperature, mass air flow, and oxygen sensors. Go to 2carpros.com for a video on how to check this using a 12v light tool. On the engine repair section search, type, "engine cranks but will not start." If my answer helpe you, please leve good feedback. thanks
Try replacing the coil wire. This is an inexpensive option and will improve the consistency of current to the distributor. This wire goes from the center of the distributor cap to the ignition coil.
Best of luck! Michael Mittelsdorf
I know that early 90's Honda's had problems and in fact a recall on the distributor. Might want to replace the distributor. Inside of the distributor is a part called the igniter which is the ignition module and that is what normally goes out. I cannot remember if you have to replace the whole distributor to get the igniter or if you can just replace the igniter itself. Has been a few years since I have worked on one. hope this helps but if not please contact me. I'm not sure about the drive light flashing thing though, new one on me.
It sounds like the TFI Module may be defective, this is the heart of the ignition system, it is a black or grey module with about 6 wires plugged into it on the side of the distributor (it may also be mounted on a finned heat sink on the inside of the left front fender), In rare cases it is the another ignition componet like the ignition coil or distributor stator, make sure you check the coil wire and the distributor for any signs or of being damaged (dist cap and coil lead need to be replaced), white powder on ther coil or distributor terminals is the give away of damage.
Also perform the following test, check with a 12 volt test light: On the coil primary ( connector at coil) there are two wires, one is red. Make sure you have voltage at this wire with the key on, then probe the other wire, usually green, crank the engine and this circuit should blink. If it doesn't, make sure the distributor turns, if it does then replace the ignition module and the stator inside the distributor.
I recommend you use Motorcraft or Ford parts. The aftermarket modules can be a problem as far as reliability. If the distributor rotor doesn't turn when you crank the engine, then you may have a timing gear problem
WildBill49 here......Not knowing the specific year and version of your Mazda, I cannot give you a specific part at fault, but I can help you. I am assuming we're talking about an electronic distributor single coil ignition system
If the spark is weak directly out of the coil (with a known good coil hooked up with correect polarity), then the problem is in the spark trigger module... There is a variety of designs, but the basic components remain the same. This is the part of the ignition system that replaces the breaker points. It consists of two parts - a magnetic spark trigger sensor, and a spark signal amplifier/controller. these are sometimes combined into one ignition module.
Replace this module, and spark from the coil should be strong! If it is still weak, reverse the two wires to the coil.
Weak spark at the plug wire with the above good indicates distributor cap/rotor replacement time...
Gerrie, I hope this is what you are looking for, best of luck, and if you feel my advice worthy, please rate it!!!