Question about 1998 Volkswagen Jetta

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I'm noticing oil dripping from bottom of gear box where the two pieces bolt together, should I just try to tighten the bolts, or is my seal probably gone? is there a way to top up the gear oil?

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1 Answer

Had same problem and it turned out to be oil dripping all the way down from the valve cover and not the tranny. Check/tighten bolts around valve cover.

Posted on Aug 17, 2008

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How to replace oil; cooler on this year


  • Service and Repair
Oil Cooler Replacement

Removal Procedure

  1. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting.
  2. Drain the engine oil and remove the oil filter housing.
89116492

  1. Loosen the oil cooler outlet (1) and the inlet (2) lines from the engine block.
  2. Lower the vehicle.
  3. Remove the intake plenum.
  4. Remove the intake manifold.
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  1. Disconnect the following electrical connectors from the water crossover:
    • The engine coolant temperature sender (2)
    • The engine coolant temperature sensor (4)
84936658

  1. Remove the water crossover bolts (1).
  2. Remove the water crossover upper and lower seals (2).
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  1. Loosen the upper heat shield bolts on the left side of the exhaust manifold.
89116496

  1. Remove the oil cooler outlet line from the engine oil cooler.
  2. Remove the oil cooler inlet line from the engine oil cooler.
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  1. Note the positioning of the 4 seals.
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  1. Position the oil feed and return,lines out of the way and secure with mechanic wire.
  2. Remove the engine oil cooler, inlet and outlet nuts (1).
  3. Remove the engine oil cooler cover bolts (2).
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  1. Remove the engine oil cooler cover.
  2. Remove the engine oil cooler.
  3. Clean all sealing surfaces.
Installation Procedure
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  1. Install the engine oil cooler.
  2. Apply a 2 mm (0.08 inch) bead of RTV silicone sealant, GM P/N 12346240, in the groove around the engine oil cooler cover.
  3. Install the engine oil cooler cover.
Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
84972057

  1. Install the engine oil cooler cover bolts (2). Tighten the engine oil cooler cover bolts to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.).
  2. Install the engine oil cooler inlet and outlet nuts (1). Tighten the engine oil cooler inlet and outlet nuts to 20 Nm (15 ft. lbs.).
  3. Reposition the oil feed and return lines.
84942883

  1. Install the oil cooler outlet and install the oil cooler inlet lines to the engine oil cooler. Use 4 new seals.
Tighten the oil feed and return lines to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.).
84936658

  1. Install the water crossover:
    • Position the crossover.
    • Install the upper and lower seals (2).
    • Install the water crossover bolts (1). Tighten
Tighten the water crossover bolts to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.).
  1. Connect the electrical connectors at the following locations:
    • The engine coolant temperature sensor (4)
    • The engine coolant temperature sender (2)
  1. Install the intake manifold.
  2. Install the intake plenum.
  3. Raise the vehicle.
89116492

  1. Install the oil cooler outlet (1) line to the engine block. Tighten the oil cooler outlet (1) line to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.).
  2. Install the oil cooler inlet (2) line to the engine block. Tighten the oil cooler inlet (2) line to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.).
  3. Install the oil filter housing to the engine block. Tighten the oil filter housing to 45 Nm (33 ft. lbs.).
  4. Lower the vehicle.

Dec 22, 2014 | 2001 Cadillac Catera

Tip

Removing a two piece rear main seal


When removing a two piece rear main seal without a sneaky pete, it can be very overwhelming here's how... First unbolt the transmission and slide it back just so that the input shaft is not in the way of taking of a clutch and/ or fly wheel. Then drain all engine oil and remove filter. Next remove the oil pan ( but be careful that none of the old pan gasket gets in the bearing caps, or crankshaft). Then next remove the oil pump( watch the gasket on this also so it doesn't fall down inside the pump pickup tube). Then your going to want to loosen the main baring cap bolts starting from the back of the block then going to the front( not to much just enough to get the pressure of the upper main seal and the crankshaft, but you will need to take the cap bolts on the very back one at the back of the block all the way out thus the bottom rear seal is in it). Remove the bottom rear seal by pulling it out (sometimes using a flat head screwdriver), and then put the new one in by dipping it in fresh oil and simply pushing it in the groove big tab side forward. Next take a screw and a small drill or screwdriver and lightly screw it into one side of the rubber on the seal in sort of a upwards diagnal pattern ( be very careful not to scar the crankshaft). Then grab the screw with the pair of pliers and lightly tap on them with a (small) hammer or the end of a screwdriver. next take the new seal dip it in fresh oil and slide it back in, in a clockwise pattern. Next put the bolts back in the baring cap with the new seal in it , and just snug them down. Then starting with the (R) front bearing cap bolt start tightening them back down to the engines given torque specs in a zig zag pattern tighten every other one all the way back to the back of the block, then back to the front. Put your new seal on the oil pump then bolt this back up to the torque specs listed for that vehicle. Next put on the rear pan gasket (if it's a four piece gasket) then put the front pan gasket on the pan. Next by using small amounts of high temp silicone put a dab on every corner it touches another gasket piece and bolt it back up ( torque specs vary depending on vehicle usually between 12 and 18 foot lbs.) Then bolt the fly wheel and/ or clutch back up. Slide your transmission in the aligned whole and bolt it back up. put on the oil filter and fill it with oil. Start the vehicle and check for leeks, if there's leeks tighten the pan generously and check again. Thank You and I hope this has helped.

on Feb 27, 2010 | Dodge D150 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to do a transmission fluid/filter change on a gmc 1500 2wd v8 350 step by step


Raise the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting. Place a drain pan under the transmission oil pan. Remove the oil pan drain plug. Remove the oil pan bolts. Remove the oil pan. Remove the gasket. Remove the magnet. Remove the oil filter. Remove the filter neck seal. The transmission oil pan gasket is reusable. Inspect the gasket and replace as needed. Clean the transmission case and the oil pan gasket surfaces with solvent. Install the filter neck seal. Install the oil filter. Install the oil pan gasket to the pan. Install the magnet into the bottom of the pan. Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions. Install the oil pan to the transmission with seventeen bolts. Tighten the oil pan bolts to 11 Nm (97 inch lbs.) . Apply a small amount of sealant GM P/N 12346004 to the treads of the drain plug. Install the oil pan drain plug. Tighten the oil pan drain plug to 18 Nm (13 ft. lbs.) . Install Dextron Automatic Transmission Fluid. Lower the vehicle.

Jul 04, 2011 | GMC Sierra 1500 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Remove oil pan


Find your oil pan's drain plug -- it just looks like a bolt from the outside. Use this to drain the oil from your vehicle first (keeps you from getting covered in oil later). Once the oil has drained out (usually it will still be dripping, but that's OK) put the plug back in so you won't get dripped on. Then find all of the bolts around the pan that you just drained -- there should be several around the top of the oil pan connecting it to the engine. Once you have removed all of these bolts, the oil pan should come off relatively easily -- most times it gets a little stuck to the oil pan seal, so you might have to pull on it a little, or if it's really stuck, you might have to pry it off (be careful not to damage the oil pan when doing this). If you notice that the oil pan is REALLY stuck on there, make sure you got ALL of the bolts (if you miss one the pan will not move).
Once the oil pan is off the car, and you have done what you need to do, clean the surfaces where the oil pan will connect back to the car -- making certain that the old gasket has been totally removed (leaving debris from the old oil pan seal will keep the new seal from functioning correctly. When you go to put the pan back on the car, make sure you have the oil pan seal set perfectly where it is supposed to go, then hand tighten the bolts back where they should be. Don't tighten all of the bolts down quite yet.
Check to make sure that the oil pan seal has not moved out of place, then tighten one bolt, but not ALL the way tight yet. Once you have one bold mostly tightened with your wrench, start tightening the bolt on the opposite side of the pan from the first one you just tightened -- and make this one about as tight as the first one. Next, double check that the seal has not moved, and then tighten a bolt on a 90 degree angle from your first two. Next, do the bolt opposite the third. Work on one bolt at a time, making sure that you don't tighten two bolts next to each other in a row. This will help you make sure you do not move or distort your oil pan seal as you are replacing the oil pan. I don't know the exact number of bolts, but if you follow the pattern from the diagram below as much as you can, you should not have too many problems. Once all of the bolts have been wrench tightened in this order (or similar depending on how many bolts there are, and their placement) go around the pan one more time, making sure that all of the bolts are nice and snug and you should be just about done -- don't forget to put more oil in the car before you turn it on :-)
Bolt Tightening to keep pan seal from slipping out of place:
1 ----- 9 ----- 6 -----4 ' ' 7 8 ' ' 3 ----- 5 ---- 10 --- 2

May 28, 2011 | 2003 Chevrolet Impala

1 Answer

I am replacing the clutch on my 1994 B4000 4 w.d. manual transmisiion truck. Just want some detail instructions on how to get the job done


HI! FIRST OF ALL MAKE SURE ALL UR TOOLS R IN GOOD SAFE WORKING CONDITION,ESPECIALLY UR JACK & STANDS, ( CHECK LOAD RATINGS OF JACK & STANDS)OTHERWISE U COULD END UP DEAD OR WITH VERY SERIOUS BODY INJURIES. PARK THE VEHICLE ON A HARD FLAT LEVEL SURFACE ,DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY POST TERMINAL. JACK UP THE VEHICLE TO DESIRED COMFORTABLE HEIGHT ALLOW EASY ACCESS TO VEHICLE UNDER CARRAGE, FRONT UP ,THEN PLACE 2 STANDS, THEN JACK UP THE REAR END ,PLACE 2 STANDS & PUT 4 STANDS UNDER THE VEHCILE, PREF SUB FRAME & OR CHASI RAIL NEAR EACH WHEEL OF THE VEHICLE ,THEN LET THE JACK DOWN SO THE VEHICLE IS RESTING ON ALL 4 STANDS,MAKE SURE THE HAND BRAKE IS OFF & THE VEHICLE IN NEUTRAL GEAR. U WILL NEED A CREEPER WITH CASTOR WHEELS ON IT TO ALLOW MOBILITY WHILST WORKING UNDER THE VEHICLE TO LAY ON .IF U CAN GET SOMEONE TO HELP U GREAT , THE MORE PEOPLE THATS EVEN BETTER AS GEAR BOXES/TRANSFER CASES R BLOODY VERY HEAVY. U WILL NEED TO DISCONNECT THE GEAR LINKAGES FROM THE GEAR BOX, SOME VEHICLES U CAN DO THAT FROM UNDERNEITH,OTHER VEHICLES U MAY HAVE TO REMOVE THE CENTRE CONSOLE IN THE CABIN TO ACCESS THE GEAR STICK BASE PLATE BOLTS, LOOSEN/REMOVE BOLTS & GEAR STICK, IF THERE IS ANOTHER GEAR STICK THERE FOR THE 4WD SELECTION DO THE SAME FOR THAT AS WELL.REMOVE THE FRONT & REAR DRIVE SHAFTS(PROP SHAFTS) , IF U DONT HAVE PLASTIC BUNGS TO SLIDE INTO THE GEARBOX & TRANSFER CASE WHERE THE SHAFTS CAME OUT, DRAIN BOTH THE GEAR BOX & TRANSFER CASE OILS OTHERWISE U WILL BE COVERED IN OIL WHEN REMOVING THE GEARBOX/TRANSFER CASE. THERE WILL BE A DRAIN PLUG IN THE BOTTOM OF THE GEARBOX & TRANSFER CASE. DISCONNECT & WIRING TO GEAR BOX/TRANSFER CASE & STARTER MOTOR TO ALLOW REMOVAL WITHOUT BREAKING ANY WIRES. PLACE A JACK UNDER THE END OF THE BOX TO SUPPORT IT, THEN REMOVE THE REAR SUPPORT MOUNT. LOWER THE JACK SLIGHTLY TO ALLOW EASY ACCESS/REMOVAL OF ALL BELL HOUSING BOLTS INCLUDING THE 2 STARTER MOTOR BOLTS. IF U DONT HAVE AIR TOOLS U MAY FIND THE BELL HOUSING BOLTS VERY HARD TO UNDO BY HAND, MAKE SURE THAT U HAVE A BREAKER BAR & LONG EXTENTSION,USE HALF INCH DRIVE SOCKETS,EXTENTSIONS ETC...WHEN THE BELL HOUSING BOLTS R REMOVED .IF U HAVE A GEAR BOX REMOVAL JACK THAT WOULD BE GREAT, IF U DONT ITS QUITE DANGEROUS, U WILL NEED ANOTHER JACK PLACED UNDER THE MID SECTION OF THE BOX, ITS LONG & HEAVY, U WILL HAVE TO "BALANCE THE WHOLE BOX", BE BLOODY CAREFUL THE BOX DOES NOT ROLL OVER ON TOP OF U OTHERWISE U WILL END UP WITH SERIOUS INJURY. IF THE BOX ROLLS OVER DONT TRY & STOP IT ,JUST GET OF THE WAY REAL FAST & WORRY ABOUT THE REST LATER & LONG AS U R SAFE.ONCE THE BOX IS REMOVED, UNDO ALL THE BOLTS THAT HOLD THE PRESSURE PLATE ONTO THE FLY WHEEL. REMOVE THE PRESSURE PLATE & CLUTCH PLATE , U WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE FLY WHEEL BOLTS TOO , WHICH WILL BE VERY HARD WITHOUT A PROPER COMPRESSOR & AIR TOOLS AS THEY R ALL TIGHTENED IN THE FACTORY BY AIR TOOLS OR ROBOTICS.TAKE THE FLY WHEEL TO A MACHINE SHOP & GET IT RESURFACE GROUND TO REMOVE ALL THE HOT SPOTS,CRACKS & SURFACE DISTORTIONS/IRREGULARITIES, OTHERWISE U MAY END UP WITH CLUTCH SHUDDER ON TAKE OFF , THIS IS SOMETIMES CAUSED BY NOT MACHINING THE FLYWHEEL. REFIT THE FLY WHEEL ,LOCK TITE ALL THE BOLTS & RETIGHTEN TO CORRECT TORQUE SPECS, OR A QUICK BLAST WITH AN HALF INCH DRIVE IMPACT GUN, NOT TOO MUCH OTHERWISE U MAY BREAK THE BOLTS.REFIT THE NEW CLUTCH & PRESSURE PLATE ,THE CLUTCH SANDWICHED IN BETWEEN THE PRESSURE PLATE & FLY WHEEL,SECURE THE PRESSURE PLATE TO THE FLY WHEEL,WITH ALL THE BOLTS, DONT TIGHTEN YET AS U HAVE TO CENTRALISE THE CLUTCH PLATE FIRST, FAILING TO DO THIS, U WILL NEVER GET THE BOX IN AGAIN.U HAVE TO USE A CLUTCH CENTRALISING TOOL ,READ THE INSTRUCTION WITH THE TOOL. ONCE THE CLUTCH PLATE IS CENTRAL U MAY GO AHEAD & TIGHTEN ALL THE PRESSURE PLATE BOLTS. 1ST NOTATION,# WHEN TIGHTENING FLY WHEEL & PRESSURE PLATE BOLTS,TIGHTEN IN A CRISS CROSS PATTERN, THINK OF A CLOCK FACE, TIGHTEN 12 OCLOCK, THEN 6 OCLOCK, THEN 3 OCLOCK, THEN 9 OCLOCK ETC...TILL ALL BOLTS R TIGHT.2ND NOTATION# MAKE SURE THE CLUTCH PLATE RAISED SECTION THAT CONTAIN THE SPRINGS IN THE CENTER OF THE CLUTCH PLATE RAISED SECTION FACE BACKWARDS TOWARDS TO PRESSURE PLATE OTHER WISE UR IN SERIOUS TROUBLE. REMOVE & REFIT THE NEW THROW OUT BEARING THAT COMES WITH THE NEW CLUTCH KIT, APPLY SOME HIGH TEMPERATURE WHEEL BEARING GREASE TO THE INPUT SHAFT WHERE THE BEARING SLIDES FORWARD & BACKWARDS ON THE GEARBOX.A QUICK NOTE, SOME THROW OUT BEARINGS, U HAVE TO REMOVE THE BEARING FROM THE SLIDE MOUNT & SOME THROWOUT BEARINGS COME COMPLETE WITH BEARING & MOUNT AS ONE PIECE.THE HARDEST PART OF THIS WHOLE OPERATION IS GETTING THE BOX TO SLIDE BACK INTO POSTION, IT IS VERY TRICKY, IF THE BOX IS NOT PERFECTLY LINED UP WITH THE MOTOR U WONT GET IT IN, U MAY HAVE TO JACK UP THE FRONT OF THE MOTOR SO IT IS TILLED BACK IN ALIGHNMENT WITH THE BOX.ONCE ALL BACK TOGETHER, JUST RING UP MAZDA SERVICE DEPARTMENT & ASK THEM WHAT TYPE OF OIL TO PUT INTO THE GEARBOX & TRANSFER CASE , WHICH CAN BE FILLED IN THE SIDE INPECTION PLUGS IN THE SIDE OF THE GEARBOX & TRANSFER CASES. MOST 4WDS GEARBOX & TRANSFER TAKE GL4 OR GL5 HYPOID OILS. GL4 = 75W/80 WEIGHT OIL & A GL5 = 80W/90 OIL WHICH IS A THICKER OIL. IN SOME VERY RARE INSTANCES SOME GEARBOXES TAKE ENGINE OIL OR A DEXTRON 3 OIL WHICH IS USED IN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION.ALSO CHECK THE OWNERS MANUAL IF U HAVE IT, THEY CAN BE HELPFUL.GOOD LUCK & WORK SAFELY, REMEMBER THE BOX IS VERY HEAVY & DANGEROUS SHOULD IT FALL ON TOP U, MY ADVICE ,GET IT DONE BY A MECHANIC..

Apr 25, 2011 | Mazda B4000 Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

I'm trying to check the transmission fluid in my 1996 nissan pickup with a manual 5 speed/4wheel drive. The only plug I find is only about 3 inches up off the bottom. My question is, Where is the fill hole...


This asian Car has no dipstick on transmission / gear box. Instead, it has two holes bottom and upper bolts. The lower bolt is the drain plug and the latter is filling bolt. How we know the filling level then? Just tighten your drain plug and fill it with gear oil until it going flooded a bit. Then tighten your filling plug.

Regards, Jay

Feb 03, 2011 | Nissan Pickup Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to change time chain on a 3.3 v6 dodge caravan, easy way to look at timeing chain, so i can tell if it is bad


This design has no tensioner. Check the sprockets for wear on the tips--especially the crank sprocket. With the cover off, turn the crankshaft with a socket and see how close the chain comes to slipping backward on the sprocket. There are complete replacement procedures at AutoZone.com, which I will try to paste in below.

3.3L and 3.8L Engines

See Figure 18



0900c15280215ddb.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Fig. 18: Timing mark alignment-3.3L and 3.8L engines
  1. If possible, position the engine so that the No. 1 piston is at TDC on the compression stroke. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Drain the coolant.
  2. Remove the timing chain case cover. For more information, refer to the Front Timing Cover and Seal procedure, earlier in this section.
  3. Remove the camshaft gear attaching cup washer and remove the timing chain with both gears attached. Remove the timing chain snubber.

To install:
  1. Assemble the timing chain and gears.
  2. Turn the crankshaft and camshaft to line up with the key way locations of the gears.
  3. Slide both gears over their respective shafts and use a straight edge to confirm alignment.
  4. Install the cup washer and camshaft bolt. Tighten the bolt to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm).
  5. Check camshaft end-play. The specification with a new plate is 0.002-0.006 in. (0.051-0.052mm) and 0.002-0.010 in. (0.51-0.254mm) with a used plate. Replace the thrust plate if not within specifications.
  6. Install the timing chain snubber.
  7. Thoroughly clean and dry the gasket mating surfaces.
  8. Install new O-rings to the block.
  9. Remove the crankshaft oil seal from the cover. The seal must be removed from the cover when installing to ensure proper oil pump engagement.
  10. Using a new gasket, install the chain case cover to the engine.
  11. Make certain that the oil pump is engaged onto the crankshaft before proceeding, or severe engine damage will result. Install the attaching bolts and tighten to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
  12. Use tool C-4992, or equivalent, to install the crankshaft oil seal. Install the crankshaft pulley using a 5.9 in. suitable bolt and thrust bearing and washer plate L-4524, or equivalent. Make sure the pulley bottoms out on the crankshaft seal diameter. Install the bolt and tighten to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
  13. Install all other parts removed during the chain case cover removal procedure and fill the engine with oil.
  14. Connect the negative battery cable, road test the vehicle and check for leaks.

Aug 29, 2010 | 1993 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

How do you time a 350 gmc motor


4.8L, 5.3L and 6.0L Engines
    • Timing mark alignment-4.8L, 5.3L & 6.0L 9308kg61.gif

    • Locate the camshaft sprocket alignment mark in the 6 o'clock position and install the camshaft sprocket and timing chain
    • Camshaft sprocket bolts and tighten the camshaft sprocket bolts;
      1. Torque to: 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm)
    • Oil pump
    NOTE: Do not lubricate the oil seal sealing surface.
  1. Lubricate the outer edge of the oil seal with clean engine oil.
  2. Lubricate the front cover oil seal bore with clean engine oil.
  3. Install the crankshaft front oil seal with a suitable seal installer. NOTE: Do not apply any type sealant to the front cover gasket (unless specified). Special tools are used to properly align the engine front cover at the oil pan surface and to center the crankshaft front oil seal.
  4. Install the front cover gasket, cover, and bolts onto the engine.
  5. Install the front cover-to-oil pan bolts and do not overtighten.
  6. Tighten the cover bolts finger tight and do not overtighten. J41480 installation-4.8L, 5.3L & 6.0L 9308kg59.gif

  7. Start the J41480 or other suitable tool to front cover bolts but don’t tighten the bolts yet. NOTE: Align the tapered legs of the tool with the machined alignment surfaces on the front cover.
    Seal alignment tool installation-4.8L, 5.3L & 6.0L 9308kg84.gif

  8. Install tool J41476 or other suitable tool.
  9. Install the crankshaft balancer bolt and tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt by hand until snug but do not overtighten.
  10. Tighten the J41480 bolts and front cover bolts;
    • Torque to: 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
  11. Remove the tools. NOTE: Place a straight edge across the engine block and front cover oil pan sealing surfaces. Avoid contact with the portion of the gasket that protrudes into the oil pan surface. Insert a feeler gauge between the front cover and the straight edge tool. The cover must be flush with the oil pan surface or no more than 0.5 mm (0.02 in) below flush. If the front cover-to-engine block oil pan surface alignment is not within specifications, repeat the cover alignment procedure. If the correct front cover-to-engine block alignment cannot be obtained, replace the front cover.
  12. Snug the oil pan-to-cover bolts in order to position the cover at the pan rail.
  13. Tighten the oil pan-to-front cover bolts;
    • Torque to: 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
  14. Tighten the front cover bolts;
    • Torque to: 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
  15. Install the crankshaft balancer and bolt (See: Crankshaft Damper).
  16. Install the water pump (See: Water Pump).
  17. Fill the engine to the proper level with oil.
  18. Fill the engine to the proper level with coolant.
  19. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs.
6.6L Engine To Remove:
NOTE: The 6.6L engine uses gears in place of a timing chain. For removal and installation, please see the Camshaft and Lifters procedure. This procedure covers the removal of the front cover and seal.
  1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.
  2. Remove the upper intake manifold sight shield as follows:
    • Remove the retaining bolt in the front of the shield
    • Lift up on the front of the shield, then lift the shield off the rear bracket
  3. Drain the cooling system.
  4. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Negative battery cables
    • Right front wheel
    • Right front fender splash shield
    • Upper fan shroud
    • Fan clutch (See: Engine Fan and Clutch)
    • Drive belt
    • Oil dipstick tube
    • Thermostat housing crossover
    • Crankshaft damper (See: Crankshaft Damper)
    • Crankshaft front oil seal
    • Water pump (See: Water Pump)
    • Camshaft sensor electrical connector
    • Camshaft sensor bolt and sensor
    • Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor connector, bolt and sensor
    • CKP sensor spacer bolts and spacer
    • 5 bolts securing the upper oil pan to the front cover
    • Bracket bolts and the bracket for the turbocharger outlet coolant pipe
    • Engine front cover bolts
    • Use a suitable seal cutter to separate the front cover from the cylinder block and upper oil pan NOTE: Do not bend the turbocharger outlet pipe.
    • O-ring from the front cover Engine front cover-6.6L engine 9348ng32.gif

    • Oil pressure relief valve from the front cover
To Install:
  1. Clean and inspect all sealing surfaces.
  2. Install or connect the following:
    • Oil pressure relief valve with a new O-ring and tighten the valve
      1. Torque to: 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)
  3. Apply a 1/8 in. (2-3mm) wide to 1/16 in. (0.5-1.5mm) high bead of sealant to the front cover sealing surfaces to the engine block and oil pan.
  4. Install or connect the following:
    • New front cover O-ring after lubricating it with engine oil
    • Front cover and bolts and tighten the front cover bolts
      1. Torque to: 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)
    • Upper oil pan-to-front cover bolts and tighten the bolts
      1. Torque to: 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)
    • Turbocharger coolant outlet pipe bracket and bolts and tighten the bolts
      1. Torque to: 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
    • Camshaft sensor and bolt and tighten the bolt
      1. Torque to: 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm)
    • Camshaft sensor connector NOTE: The CKP sensor spacers are machined with different timing positions. If you have to replace a spacer, make sure it has the same part number.
    • CKP sensor spacer and spacer bolts and tighten the bolts
      1. Torque to: 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm)
    • CKP sensor and bolt and tighten the bolt
      1. Torque to: 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm)
    • Water pump (See: Water Pump)
    • Crankshaft front oil seal
    • Crankshaft damper (See: Crankshaft Damper)
    • Thermostat housing crossover
    • Oil fill tube
    • Drive belt
    • Upper fan shroud
    • Right front fender splash shield and wheel
    • Negative battery cables
  5. Refill the cooling system with the proper type and quantity of antifreeze.
  6. Inspect the engine for leaks.
  7. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs.

Aug 27, 2010 | GMC Sierra 1500HD Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I am installing an Offenhouser intake manifold on a Ford inline-6


put the halves together leave bolts snug, then bolt it to the head, now go back and tighten the halves together,

Oct 06, 2009 | Ford Econoline Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

1996 Honda Accord 2.7L/V6 oil leak near oil filter/oil switch


my car was doing the exact same thing and i spent about 18 hrs total trying to figure out. if you remove the oil filter, you will notice that the "bracket" that the oil filter attaches to is removable. remove the ENTIRE oil filter assembly. there is a bolt almost behind the crank pulley, its tricky to get to but you can get to it with a 1/4 in drive, swivel, and extension, i do believe it was a 10-12 mm socket (MUST BE ^POINT SHORT WELL) the top left bolt on the assembly you will notice that you can not get out. that is fine, take the rest of the bolts out and let the assembly hang from that bolt, BUT the bolt must me loosend all of the way to achive play in it. take a small screw driver and "break" the seal on the assembly. you will notice 2 holes. around those two holes is a single gasket. even the smallest crack will aloow oil to drip. my car was using about a gallon of oil every ten miles, so you can imagine how much oil i when through, replace the gasket. You can not get the rubber gasket ANYWHERE except a honda dealer. replace. put it together and you all set.

BASIC STEPS: RAISE PASSENGER SIDE.
REMOVE TIRE
REMOVE OIL FILTER
REMOVER ASSEMBLY
REMOVE GASKET
AND REPEAT BACKWARDS FOR INSTALLATION

Jul 13, 2009 | 1996 Honda Accord

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