I've installed a new rotors and brakes. Bleed the master cylinder and lines. I have a nice hard pedal with vey little travel with the vehicle turned off. BUT when the vehicle is running the brake pedal travels to the floor and no loss of fluid that I can find. Has this something to do with the ABS brake module since I do have the ABS light lit up when running?

and start off at the caliber farthest from the master cylinder. usually right rear. If your peddle stays rock hard there's still still air bubbles in the hydraulic fluid an your lines.

anual Bleeding
The primary and secondary (front and rear) hydraulic brake systems are individual systems and are bled separately. Bleed the longest line first on the individual system being serviced. During the complete bleeding operation, DO NOT allow the brake master cylinder reservoir (2K478) to run dry. Keep the master cylinder reservoirs filled with High Performance DOT-3 Brake Fluid C6AZ-19542-AA or DOT-3 equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M6C25-A. Never reuse brake fluid that has been drained from the hydraulic system or has been allowed to stand in an open container for an extended period of time.
NOTE: Non-ABS vehicles have the brake master cylinder (2140) mounted at an angle to the horizontal, bleeding may be better performed if the vehicle is positioned so that the brake master cylinder is horizontal.

1. To bleed the brake system, position a suitable box wrench on the bleeder fitting on the brake wheel cylinder. Attach a rubber drain tube to the bleeder fitting. The end of the tube should fit snugly around the bleeder fitting.

1. Submerge the free end of the tube in a container partially filled with clean brake fluid, and loosen the bleeder fitting approximately three-quarters of a turn.

1. Have an assistant push the brake pedal (2455) down slowly through its full travel. Close the bleeder fitting, then return the brake pedal to full-release position. Repeat this operation until air bubbles cease to appear at the submerged end of the bleeder tube.

1. When the fluid is completely free of air bubbles, secure the bleeder fitting and remove the bleeder tube.

1. Repeat this procedure at the brake wheel cylinder on the opposite side. Refill the brake master cylinder reservoir after each wheel cylinder is bled, and install the master cylinder cap and gasket. Ensure the diaphragm-type gasket is properly positioned in the master cylinder cap. When the bleeding operation is completed, the fluid level should be at the MAX line to 4.0 mm (0.16 inch) below.

1. If the primary (front brake) system is to be bled, repeat Steps 2 through 5 at the right front brake caliper and ending at the left front brake caliper. Bleed the brake master cylinder at the bleed screw after all calipers are bled.

1. After disc brake service, ensure that the disc brake pistons are returned to their normal positions and the shoe and lining assemblies are properly seated. This is accomplished by depressing the brake pedal several times until normal pedal travel is established.

1. Check pedal feel. If brake pedal feels "spongy" repeat bleed procedure, or use the Vacuum method as outlined in Section 06-09, but bleed both rear calipers first.

You can also pressure bleed it. If the abs module needs to be bleed, that requires a special tool. If you have already tried the procedure posted and it didn't work, I'm not sure what next?

may be bad master cylinder ~ you try to gravity bleed them first?

or you may have to bench bleed the master cylinder then re-install, gravity bleed to start

then finish off with the one-man bleeder or 2 person technique


i don't know how you did it, so i'm covering my bases by saying all that

Sounds like a bad brake booster.. It's the large can behind the master cylinder. The fact you have a hard pedal with engine off is the key here.

Brake line busted somewhere? Is the linkage to the master cylinder intact? Master cylinder might have been installed incorrectly.

Booster is okay, you have to bench bleed the MC, first. So, since it is installed, bleed it with a kit from the parts store, little plastic hoses screw in to the brake hose fittings, and put other end under fluid in reservoir. pump slowly, especially wait at end of release, for fluid to refill piston chamber....pump until no bubbles...

FROM THIS POINT you must not allow fluid in reservoir to go low, or start all over again....

Now bleed the brakes and you will eventually get pressure.

Bench Bleed the M/C first, then do not let it run dry during system bleeding. Parts stores sell a kit that helps installed m/c bleeding.

If you replaced the rear brake shoes check the e brake adjuster to make sure it is adjusted/ installed properly. also check that the rear wheel cylinder is in proper contact with shoes

You may have a leak in the booster or master cylinder. You can put a pressure tester on the system to test for leaks. It does sound like you have an air leak.
You can try to bleed the master cylinder, then slave cylinder, then brake lines.

Did you bleed the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder? THen next furthest, to closest last. Did u make sure the master cylinder never got low enough to draw in air? To bleed, Pumo brakes 3x, holding pedal down 1/2 way, while bleeder is opened, let air/fluid flow, shut bleeder as flow diminishes so no air gets in the line. Is the car running when u bleed brakes? It should be. If u are doing all of this u should feel your pedal coming back (getting firm). Let me know how you make out. countrycurt0