I have a 1985 T25 Panel Van 1.9DG petrol RHD. I had a reconditioned Pierburg 2E3 carb and had a problem where turning the mixture screw (not the idle screw) didnt seem to have any effect. After a lot of carb investigation and renewal of the heater unit, I decided to replace the Pierburg with a Weber. I have fitted the weber and have the same problem. Turning the enrichment screw is having no effect. Does anyone know of any underlying problem that can affect the mixture screws response? Also, not sure if its related, but the oil pressure warning light flashes as well
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
this sounds more like you need the carb rebuilt to clean out all the dirt in the small passages and replace the needle and seat as well as the float. the idle air mixture screw are at the front of the carb at the base one for each barrel the carb has. this year should have tamper proof plugs covering the mixture screws which the carb will have to come off to remove them.
Start by checking the existing settings of your air adjusting screws (the two in front). you do that by turning the screws one at a time in (clock wise) at one half turn at a time until they stop. should be appx. 1 1/2 turns. Be sure to jot down how many turns it took so you can put them back if need be. Now set both at 1 1/2 turns out (counter clock wise) NOTE. Do all this with engine off...... Now start engine and turn screws out slowly one at a time about 1/2 turn then in until you hear the engines RPMs start to drop then turn out again 1/4 turn. Now your air/fuel mixture should be as close as your going to get it without a dino machine
Do you have a Holly on that ? if not then, you have to pull the carb. apart to adjust the fuel/air mix, are you talking about the idle air mix screws, this only adjust the idle mix, not the fuel ratio when running above idle, I have seen slots (screw driver) oval, hex screws, your going to have to see which one you have, take the air cleaner off and reach it from the front of the van.
U are not describing a carb adjustment issue but a carb dirt issue or an intake manifold leak or the base of the carb is loose (very,very common), twist the carb body if it moves the base of carb has come loose, but back to the adjustments, set the rough idle speed to spec, then turn the mixture screw out about 3 1/2 turns, then turn slowly in while you watch a hand held tach, when the eng reaches its maxium idle speed the mixture is correct, then turn it in 1/3 more to pass smog and maximize fuel economy, then set the final idle with the idle speed screw, also verify the dash pot works so the throttle closes slowly when you raise rpm, if the little decel dashpot is no good replace it.
Try adjusting your air/fuel mixture screws. Turn them all the way in and turn them back out 1 and a half turns. This will base line you. Double check for vacuum leaks at the carb. and intake. Spray some WD 40 along the intake where it meets the heads and see if your engine idle changes. If it does, replace you intake gaskets with a good set. Replace carb. mounting gasket. Check for any unplugged vacuum ports. Once you're able to idle it down to 1000 rpm's, turn your mixture screws in until the engine stumbles and turn screws back out until the engine achieves the highest rpm and turn in again only at a 40 rpm drop.