Grand Prix is locked in park and the key is locked in the ignition. The battery has power to the relay center. Also the interior lights do not come on when a door is in the open position. Is there a common problem solution for this issue? I have check some of the fuses but them seemed to be intact.
The same happened to me. I found out you have to have a full 12 volts in the system or your key can be locked. I would say try the connections at the battery or try another battery. Once I made sure the connection was tight at the battery the key came right out. Hope this helps
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If you can turn key, start it up. Shift into gear, back into park, wheels straight ahead. turn key off. See if you can get it out then by wiggling key. If your wheels are locked at an angle, it might have something to do with it. Try pulling wheel away from lock position. Other than that, a little spray of lubricant into lock cyliinder might help. Give it a few minutes to soak in. I'm not sure if a locksmith could help, but worth a call to ask them. If you can put key in run position, I think you would be able to remove lock cylinder. You have to pull the steering column covers off to remove cylinder. There is a procedure, pretty easy. Good luck.
When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine. Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger). Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables). Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections). Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay). Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store). Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary). Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective). Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start. Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up). Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).
This is a common problem with newer GM vehicles, either the key wont go in or the key won't come out. It should be a recall, I don't think there has been a bulletin on it. The key/ignition switch needs to be replaced. If you're worried about security because the doors wont lock with the key in the ignition, you can disconnect the battery and lock the doors manually.
well does the key go in does it turn to the start pos? if the dash dost power up its because the switch is bad if it will power up but not start it can be becuse of the resitor chip depends on what is going on if you cant get power its becuse of the switch
well the problem is that the key lock actuator is not getting the power from either the shifter switch in the center column or bad ignition switch or bad actuator. you will have to check power at the ignition switch. white wire is the wire that supplies the shifter switch with power
A simple way to make your car secure without removing the key is ti run a wire from the positive side of the coil to a good quality toggle switch that you can mount in a discreet location (possibly somewhere easily accessable) then run a wire from the other side of the toggle switch to a metal surface ,and attache the wire with a small sheet metal screw, when you flip the switch to the on position it will ground out the coil thus preventing the engine from starting. Another way is to buy a battery cable with a switch already installed, but that is a real pain to turn on and off as you must open the hood of your vehicle to activate the switch
In my opinion the toggle switch is easy and cheap to do . It creates a theft proof system for very little money or work
GM Century/Lumina/Grand Prix/Intrigue 1997-2000
The vehicles covered by this guide use one of two types of ignition switches:
A mechanical key and lock cylinder built into the steering column, that works a pull rod to actuate the separate electrical portion of the ignition switch mounted further down the steering column. For more information and replacement procedures on this type of switch, please see .
An instrument panel-mounted ignition switch is also used on some W-Body vehicles. To service this switch, the radio, heater & A/C control panel and the instrument cluster must be removed. All of these procedures are found elsewhere in this section.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Instrument Panel-Mounted Ignition Switch
You must perform the Body Control Module (BCM) theft deterrent relearn procedure after replacement of the ignition lock cylinder. Failure to perform this relearn procedure means the BCM will not function properly. This means the vehicle will not be theft protected by the Passlock system and the engine may not crank or start. GM recommends that this procedure be performed with their Tech 2® or equivalent scan tool. An alternate relearn procedure is given at the end of this procedure.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the radio assembly following the procedures found in this section.
Remove the heater & A/C control head assembly following the procedures found in this section.
Remove the instrument cluster assembly following the procedures found in this section.
Detach the electrical connectors from the ignition switch.
Insert the key and turn the ignition switch lock cylinder to the ACC position.
Depress the transaxle park/lock cable retainer to release, then pull to remove the cable from the ignition switch.
You must perform the Body Control Module theft deterrent relearn procedure after replacement of the ignition lock cylinder.
If it is necessary to remove the ignition lock cylinder from the ignition switch (theft damage, etc.), use the following procedure:
Insert the key and turn the ignition switch lock cylinder to the ON position.
Using a small flat-bladed tool, depress and hold the lock cylinder retaining tab.
Using the key as an aid, pull to remove the ignition switch lock cylinder from the switch.
Remove the key from the lock cylinder.
Carefully pull to release the ignition switch bezel from the ignition switch lock cylinder.
Remove the ignition switch bracket bolts and remove the ignition switch through the instrument panel cluster opening.
Remove the bolts retaining the ignition switch to the bracket and remove the bracket.
i have the same problem i think its a saftey hazzard when i went to start my car it was dead and the key would not come out and i couldnt shift it in (N) to move it even the button that u push to shift out of park didnt work