My door will not shut the peace were the door connects to the metal u bracket is pushed in and cant figure out how to get it back to were it was like the other doors so i can close it

Not sure that I can help you. You will most likely have to remove the seat bottom and maybe the seat back. The seat bottom can come out in 2 different ways. There maybe a bolt on each side of the seat bottom that holds the seat in, or on some you just have to push back hard then pull up on the front of the seat. Some are very hard to get out. the back of the seat be held in by bolts. Then you should be able to remove the 1/4 trim. The 1/4 trim is held on by ribbed push plugs that slip into the trim panel. you can either a panel removing tool or you can use a screw driver and long nose pliers. Be carful that you do not brake the plastic that holds the fastener, but if you do you can drill a small hole and put a sheet metal screw in it. If you do not find the plastic is making the noise might look for a peace of welding rod that the robot left in the car or if the windows go up and down that the bracket are loose or maybe broken. Good luck Jerry

my friend had the same problem with his 96 blazer. it is a pain to get out sometimes but it can be done. it is spring loaded so its in here tightly. you should be able to get a small flat head screwdriver into the slot opening. wedge it in there and slightly pry and it will eventually come loose

Check the brake pedal's suspension; you should find the brake light switch there and it has either failed or its mounting bracket needs to be adjusted.

The nylon gear track assembly that controls those window systems fail all the time. You've got to remove the interior door panel and most likely replace the gear track assembly. Once the panel is removed you can work on it through the cutouts in the door metal on the inside of the door. It's not easy to get to even with the panel removed. Good luck!

Hello,

To replace the mirror of your car all you have to do is follow the process below,

1. Remove the plastic shards of mirror lens from the mirror shell,
2. If any of the shards are still stuck to the mirror, pull them off the motor and discard them,
3. Sweep any small shards out of the shell with a vacuum cleaner,
4. Place the new mirror lens into the mirror shell, the lens has a small metal bracket on the back of it that fits over the motor.
5. The tight fit of the mirror in the shell forces the bracket to line up with the motor.
6. Push the mirror bracket onto the motor by pushing on the center of the mirror lens with your hand. You will feel the bracket snap into place.

But if you want to remove the entire mirror, then you will have to follow the steps below for the DIY process:

1. To replace the outside mirror, the door panel needs be taken off to get to the retaining nuts and the wiring.
2. You will need a few common tools, Phillips screwdriver, flat head screwdriver, and a 10mm socket and ratchet. No special tools are required.
3. Remove the Phillips screws located in the arm rest.
4. Remove the screw in the door handle.
5. Remove any screws that may be located around the circumference of the door panel.
6. Use the common screwdriver and insert it in between the door panel and the door and pry out the trim fasteners around the circumference of the door panel.
7. These trim fasteners are plastic plugs with serrated edges on the shank and pushed into holes on the door. Once these are removed, lift the bottom of the door panel straight up to unlatch the panel from the top horizontal ledge.
8. If the vehicle happens to be a Ford, it uses downward facing hooks on the door panel that hook into the door. Simply lift straight up to remove the hooks.
9. Bring the door panel just far enough to remove the door handle rods if necessary.
10. Disconnect the power window electrical connectors. Remove the lower door panel's marker light connector.
11. Disconnect the power outside-mirror electrical connector and then using the 10mm socket, remove the three retaining nuts on the backside of the outside mirror.
12. Withdraw the mirror and studs from the door.
13. Install the electrical connector for the new mirror through the opening in the door and line up the studs on the mirror with the holes in the door and push it through.
14. Install the nuts on the backside. Connect the electrical connector.
15. Hold the door panel close to the door and connect all the electrical connectors.
16. Tip the bottom of the door panel outward slightly to attach the top curved surface to the horizontal channel.
    
17. Lower the bottom of the door panel and line up the trim fasteners with the holes in the door. Once lined up, push them into the holes to hook the door panel.
    
18. Replace all the screws in reverse order of removal.

Take care.

HAVE TO TAKE DOOR PANEL OFF THE MIRROR IS BOLTED ON AFTER PANEL'S OFF YOU GET TO THEM.

Technical Instructions
See picture below
1. Remove door trim panel and water shield per
NOTE: Place a strip of masking tape along the edge of door before removing trim panel to prevent scratching the door with the trim panel removal tool.

2. Snap cable housing end from slot on inside door handle assembly and disconnect cable.
NOTE: Use care to prevent bending of cable housing retainer bracket.

3. Remove rear window channel retaining bolt to allow access to door latch.

4. Position a block (screwdriver handle) between the latch and the door inner panel and snap the cable housing end out of slot (towards inner panel) on door latch assembly and disconnect cable at latch.
NOTE: Use care when removing cable housing to avoid bending of the latch. Discard cable.

5. Hook up new cable at latch and snap cable housing end into slot.
NOTE: Make sure the cable housing is fully seated in the slot.

6. Apply a light film of Teflon grease to the barrel end of the cable. See Figure A.

7. Install return spring. See Figure A.
NOTE: Ensure that the push button rod is located between the spring and the door inner panel.

8. Install foam block at latch. See Figure A.

9. Position water shield over the return spring and install push pin to retain upper portion of water shield. See Figure B.
NOTE: Push pin goes in the same hole as the return spring.

10. Clean hands of grease before performing step 11.

11. Remove protective backing along the lower edges only of the water shield. See Figure A.

12. Install latch water shield at door latch. Pinch the exposed adhesive surfaces together to secure the water shield. Check to insure water shield is not showing through the door shut-face latch access hole. See Figure B.

13. Attach cable to inside door handle assembly and snap cable housing into slot.
NOTE: Make sure the cable housing is fully seated.

14. Check the gap as shown in remote control using a 3/16 drill bit shank end. The drill bit shank should fit in the gap without any clearance and a tight fit is preferred. See Figure C.

15. If the drill bit is too loose or does not fit, adjust by bending the cable bracket as required.

16. Place plastic wedge on remote bracket as shown. Wedge must fit with at least a light press fit for retention. See Figure D.

17. After installation, Apply a dab of special Teflon grease, supplied with the service cable to cable housing openings at inside handle end. The grease should surround and contact the cable all the way around, to seal the opening between the cable and the cable housing.

18. Check all latch functions to insure correct assembly of latch system. If the inside handle does not release properly, replace the inside handle remote release mechanism.

19. Reposition and install trim panel using new push pins if required.

It should be a "V' or "U" shaped locking mechanism, that the bolt on the latch slides into. You will have to pull the handle, while taking a screwdriver and sticking it into the slot, and pushing down. The handle will release the lock, the screwdriver is just so you can put some elbow grease in to slide it down.

i was having the same type of problem. we just put a couple of washers behind the latch and then adjusted the latch and it solved our problem.

there is a little metal tesion bar/bracket that keeps it in the open or closed position. If your fuel door itself is not bent or damaged then I would check this bar to see if it has been bent or out of place. I'm not sure if there is a replacement part; I just bent mine a little to get it to stay closed. Unfortunatly I left it open the other day when I went thru a car was after fueling and the door is bent now so I have another issue to deal with.

hope that helps