My problem started last summer and occured on several occasions, I took my Suburban to our local Chevy dealer and they could not locate the problem. On days that I drive out of town (on the highway driving 65-70 mph) and it is hot outside my Suburban gauges will appear to be fine and within normal limits and then the engine will shutdown. Once I get off to the shoulder of the road and sit for 10-15 minutes it will start again and sometimes I am able to travel another 10-20 miles before this pattern repeats. It seems to me that there is an electronic safety that is shutting things down. I have even tried not running the a/c to see if that helps and it does not seem to make much of a difference.
I also have noticed while driving that my car make a whistling noise that is most noticeable while travelling in town at reduced speeds.
Just wondering if you guys have any ideas or have run across this before. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I had the exact same problem on my 2002 Suburban. turns out it was the Fuel Pump. the car would run great on cool days & short trips. But when would drive all day. the car would start to get sluggish. then turn its self "off ". I changed the fuel pump and never had that problem again. hope that helps you..
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I've had numerous issues just this summer with my 2008 LTZ Suburban. The dealership has replaced the battery, some module and, it's back in as we speak to have both runnimg board motors replaced because they both locked up again! A friend of mine owns a 2009 LTZ Suburban and has started having intermittent problems with her running boards, too. When it's time to up-grade, I will NOT be getting retractable running boards again!!
Pay a visit to your local chevy dealer. They have a complete set of photos and parts descriptions at the parts window, on computer. You don't need to buy the part there unless its a pre-formed "dealer only" part.
When was the last time the truck was tuned up? sounds like there is a hair line crack in the distributor cap witch in turn lets moisture get in there and it won't start until it dries back out, the heat from the hair dryer is most likely drying out the moisture in the cap seeing its so close to the throtel body. Do a tune up.
Your V8 Audi has two necessary sensors that malfunction due to their placement in extreme heat on the lower left side of the engine just inside of the header/down pipe connection. They read the flywheel position for the engines computer ECU. The reference sensor is always suspect, but the speed sensor may need to be changed, as well. The wire connectors to the sensors that sit above the FL suspension can be tested, or just replace both sensors to get some quality time with your V8.
I had the same problem with mine. I installed a fuel pressure gauge, and drove around until the problem started. The truck should be running between 48 to 56 lbs. of fuel pressure. Mine ran at idle at 42lbs. , not even high enough. Drove it for about 20 minutes, and it started to stumble. Fuel pressure dropped to 30lbs, 20 lbs - then all the way down to 2lbs. I shut it off, and it would not start back up. 30 seconds later, I turned the key and it came up to 10lbs. press. 10 more seconds 20lbs. After almost a minute, it came up to 42 lbs. started and I drove away. I replaced the fuel pump assemb. on 7/3/2008. Drove it around,and the problem is gone. Mine is a flex fuel, and the pump retails for $668.00. I did find a AC Delco pump for $221.00. I hope this helps.
have fuel pump pressure checked 50-60 Psi at idle 60PSI with vac line diconnected from pressure regulator. If that checks out check for ingation switch failier may be keeps car power on but telling ecm that it has been turned from run. Also have a wave form done on fuel pump as it can still have good pressure but not be fully funtional elctricly. if you have acsses to a tech 2 have it checked for codes as it may not have turned on the light but may have stored a code