My windows(all Windows) have stop working simultainly @same time. Have cheched the switches/wiring/ &breaker under drivers side back seat.Had friend look @ it and informed me after finding nothing, could be relay module inside drivers door.Module control unit has constant hot,controls window(s) after key is removed,till door is open &relay opens killing power to windows.Also heard said relay is fused,but not listed? Can you assist,getting hot inside the car, during summer travel..

Check in the under hood fuse block or power distribution center for fuse #72 and #75 these are 60 amp fuses. If the problem isn't there you have Two separate problems, check at the switches for battery voltage and ground. The most common problem is switches.

The following components are used to control the power windows:
• Driver door module (DDM)
• Passenger front door module (PDM)
• LH rear door module (LRDM)
• RH rear door module (RRDM)
• Driver door switch assembly (DDSA)
• RH front power window switch
• LH rear power window switch
• RH rear power window switch
• LH front power window motor
• RH front power window motor
• LH rear power window motor
• RH rear power window motor
• Class 2 serial data link
• DR MOD PWR C/B 30 Amp circuit breaker
• DRIVER DR MOD 10 Amp fuse -- DDSA and DDM logic, DDM internal driver operation.
• PSGR DR MOD 10 Amp fuse -- PDM logic and internal driver operation.
• REAR DR MOD 15 Amp fuse -- LRDM and RRDM logic and internal driver operation

Are there fuses under hood causing this? Without looking at wiring diagrams to see what all is involved in the power window electrical circuit would be guessing as to what the problem is . An looking at a wiring diagram I see a circuit breaker supply's B+ voltage for the window's . Circuit breakers very rarely go bad . I would look for broken wire's inside the rubber flex boot from the body to the door. Or maybe the power window control module is bad . If you know nothing of automotive electrical systems , wiring diagram's ,an how to test with a DMM - digital multi-meter ,your best bet mite be to take it to a qualified repair shop .

No fuse, there is a circuit breaker in rear fuse box. The rear fuse box seems to be under the rear seat cushion.
An easier way might be to check wire harness on hinge side of driver door. Probably has a protective rubber boot covering, pull the covering back far enough to check proper wire color. Orange wire is voltage for power windows, hot all the time. Use a test light to probe that wire for voltage. If voltage, the CB isn't the problem. You also need ground, black wire.
Sometimes those wires may break because you open and shut the driver door so much.

The picture is too dark. Usually the power windows, all of them, are protected by a 25 or 30 amp circuit breaker. It is usually found in the instrument panel fuse block, under the dash on the driver's side. The circuit breaker is a matchbook size "fuse", usually silver colored. A circuit breaker automatically resets if it gets tripped by like a short.

If you pull off the master switch, the driver's side switch, you should have one hot wire with key on. The power wire and the ground for the windows are both in the driver's master switch. This is where you begin testing the power windows if none are working. Check for a hot wire, and check the ground wire- use a multi-meter.

It might be a coincidence with the sun roof, but all makes and models of cars have window and door lock problems with age. Two things happen as a car ages. In most cases, the drivers door opens and closes more often than the rest of the doors, also your more likely to leave the drivers window open and it rains in on the controls. The majority of the time, it's the wiring at the door hedge that bends back and forth & breaks when you get in and out of your vehicle. Everyone's situation is different depending on use/mileage.
Example: Delivery driver, miles 50k window/door lock problem.
Highway daily driver 150k miles with no problems.

You can sometime check this your self. Turn on your ignition where the windows should work. "engine does not have to start" Sit in the drivers seat, hold down the window up/down button while moving the door in question to open & close. If the window tries to move at any time, the wires are wore in half. This does not always work, but I have had great luck trouble shooting electrical door problems using this method. If you have doors with no wires, clean the contact points. Hatchbacks & minivans use this system. Hope this helps.

How to diagnose this problem ? Viewing wiring diagrams to see what all is invovled in these electrical circuit's , check power supply's an ground connection's using a DMM - digital multimeter !
What type power seat's ? does it have memory ,heated an cooled etc ?
Power Seats System Description and Operation
There are 2 options of power seat systems available in full size trucks. The first is 6 way driver and passenger power seats without memory. The second is an 8-way driver seat plus 4-way lumbar with memory, heat and optional cool function. While the passenger has 8-way power seats with heat and optional cool function. For the driver memory seat operation, refer to Memory Seats Description and Operation. Power seats without memory are completely controlled through the power seat switch. Battery voltage is supplied to the power seat switch through the power seat circuit breaker. While the seat adjuster switches are in an inactive state the switch contacts are closed to the power seat switch ground circuit. When a power seat switch is pressed to an active state the switch contact is closed to the battery voltage supply circuit. Each seat adjuster motor is controlled by the power seat switch through 2 motor control circuits. The seat adjuster motors are bidirectional and the direction of adjuster motor rotation is determined by which of the adjuster motor control circuits is switched to battery voltage while the other remains grounded.

If it has memory seat's there is a control module !
Battery voltage is supplied to the driver seat module through a 25 A circuit breaker. The driver seat module supplies the seat adjuster switch assembly with a battery positive reference voltage. While the seat adjuster switches are in an inactive state the switch contacts are closed to the adjuster switch common circuit.
Both right side windows have a seperate power supply from the left side window's ,has RT DOORS circuit breaker CB1 - 25amp. location left instrument panel fuse block . Circuit breaker's very rarely fail .Do the door lock's work on that side of the vehicle ? The windows won't work with their own switche's ?
The DDS controls the passenger window through a GMLAN message to the PDS. When a power window switch is activated in the up or down positions the PDS supplies power and ground to the window motor control circuits to drive the window motor in the required direction. Prior to activating a power window motor the PDS will supply the control circuit with a low current bias voltage in order to determine that a short to ground condition does not exist, and during window motor operation the PDS continues to monitor the motor current to verify proper window motor operation. (Scan tool support is available for this system)
Check PDM fuse 4 15 amp ,this supply's B+ voltage to the DOORLOCK/WINDOW switch passenger side . Check for broken wires inside the flex boot from the body to the passenger door .

Might want to check the doors with the problem windows for a broken wire from the door to the door jam.

The window lock switch is a single circuit to all the other windows, so if there was a problem with it, none of the window controls would work ( but the driver's side would still operate them ).

The other place to check for a broken wire is the driver's side door to a-pillar harness. The circuits for the other windows run through the driver's side switch. Could be a wire in the driver's side door harness.

The other item could be the driver's side switch, the contacts will get carbon built up on them, and the windows will not operate anymore.
This is what mine looked like when the driver's side window stopped working ( lower left hand corner of the picture is the driver's side window switch, note the carbon build up on the contacts )


I would start with checking for broken wires, by metering the window switch for power.

The back passenger's window switch should be getting power & ground on the white w/ yellow stripe wire and the tan w/ light blue stripe wire.
in the "at rest" position on the driver's side switch, these are supplying ground to the power window, and power is being applied to the other side of the motor ( depending on direction of travel ).

2003 surbarban driver seat and passenger windows have common fuse/breaker under hood in fuse panel. 50 Amp fuse upper left of box, marked mped this is a big fuse not the little ones.

It is rare that the circuit breaker fails.
What I would do if I were you, is to check to see is the 10 amp GAUGE fuse (under the dash) and the 50 amp POWER fuse (in the fuse box under the hood) are good. If both fuses are indeed good, the next thing that I would do is to check to see if you have 12 volts power in the BLUE wire going to the driver side door switch, in the harness connector, that connects to the main switch. If you have no power in the BLUE wire, you have a broken wire between the body & the door harness. This is quite common. If you DO have power in the BLUE wire, replace the driver side master control switch. if the contacts in the DRIVER's part of the master switch fail, there is no power transmitted to any of the other windows. Hope this helps, and thanks for choosing FixYa. Please feel free to comment back if you need any further info.