Question about 1999 Ford F150 Regular Cab

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1999 F-150 hose routing

On the back of the upper intake manifold (passenger's side), there is a plug with three connections for hoses. One is for the egr/vacuum system. The other two are at 2 'oclock and 5 'oclock. They go back to where?

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  • Anonymous Apr 06, 2009

    I JUST FOUND THE SAME PROBLEM IN MY TRUCK 2001 F150 4.2 6 CYL IS THAT A PCV VALVE IF ANY BODY CAN HELP ME A HAVE A VACUUM LEAK THAT A CANT FIND I ALREADY CHANGE THE FUEL FILTER, PUT A NEW MAF SENSOR, I DID A RECENTLY TUNE UP SPARK PLUGS AND WIRES CLEAN EGR VALVE PORTS CHECK HOSES FOR LEAKS PLEASE HELP

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Check tour emissions label under hood, shows diagram

Posted on Oct 05, 2008

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I need to see a coolant system hose that leaks does the intake have to be removed


Yes there are cooling system hoses under the intake, here are instructions to remove the intake.

Instructions
  1. Remove the Intake Manifold
    • 1Drain the cooling system and relieve the pressure in the fuel system. Disconnect the negative battery cable, the air intake duct, the IAC valve connectors, the throttle position sensor and switch connectors, and the EGR solenoid valve.
    • 2Pull the EVAP canister vacuum and purge hoses, the vacuum hoses from the EVAP, the brake cylinder, pressure regulator and EGR tube. Tag and disconnect the spark plug wires. Remove the distributor cap.
    • 3. Take out the three left bank injector connectors, the thermal transmitter, the ground harness, breather pipe and the upper manifold. Disconnect the fuel feed and return lines and plug them with golf tees to prevent fuel spillage.
    • 4Locate the right injector harness connectors and disconnect them as well as the fuel rail and injectors. Remove the coolant temperature switch harness connector and the water hose from the thermostat.
    • 5Loose the bolts on the lower manifold in sequence. Remove the bolts and left the intake manifold from the engine. Remove the gasket and discard it.
    • 6Clean the mating surfaces by scraping the old gasket material and carbon deposits. Clean the surfaces with solvent and inspect them for damage.
    Install the Intake Manifold
    • 7Put a new gasket in place and install the lower intake manifold to the engine. Tighten the bolts in sequence as follows: first pass-35 inch pounds; second pass-78 inch pounds and third pass 70 to 84 inch pounds.
    • 8Connect the ECT sensor connector, the fuel supply manifold and the right bank injector connectors. Connect the fuel lines and then install the upper intake manifold. Put the breather pipe in position.
    • 9Install the intake manifold ground cable, the thermal transmitter, the left bank injector connectors and the distributor. Reconnect the spark plug wires.
    • 10Continue reconnecting all the components, reversing the order in which they were removed. Connect the negative battery cable to the terminal. Refill the cooling system with the appropriate coolant.
    • 11Start the engine. Check for fuel or vacuum leaks.

Jul 02, 2012 | 1997 Mercury Villager

Tip

Replacing spark plugs and coils on Mazda Tribute V6


Here are DIY step by step instructions for replacing the spark plugs and / or coils in a Mazda Tribute V6 (based on a 2001 Tribute).

This is a lengthy procedure, but don't be frightened, it works...I have done it a few times. This will save you a few hundred $$$ if you do it yourself. Make sure to read all of these instructions, preferably while looking at your engine, before you get started. You will need 2-3 hours to do this job.

NOTE 1: IF YOU HAVE A SPECIFIC ISSUE WITH CYLINDERS/COILS 4, 5, OR 6, YOU ARE IN LUCK, YOU ONLY HAVE TO REMOVE A PLASTIC ENGINE COVER. IF YOUR ISSUE IS WITH CYLINDERS/COILS 1, 2 OR 3, OR YOU ARE CHANGING ALL OF THE SPARK PLUGS, YOU WILL HAVE TO REMOVE THE INTAKE MANIFOLD. THESE INSTRUCTIONS COVER CHANGING ALL OF THE SPARK PLUGS AND CAN BE USED TO REPLACE ANY OF THE COILS.

NOTE 2: IF YOU ARE THINKING OF REPLACING YOUR SPARKPLUGS BECAUSE YOUR ENGINE IS RUNNING ROUGH, PLEASE DO YOURSELF A FAVOR AND GET THE ENGINE SCANNED FIRST TO MAKE SURE THAT A COIL IS NOT THE ISSUE. YOU CAN REPLACE YOUR PLUGS AND BAD COILS AT THE SAME TIME WITH THIS PROCEDURE. YOU WILL BE UPSET IF YOU DO THIS WORK TO REPLACE ONLY YOUR SPARKPLUGS, THEN YOU FIND OUT AFTERWARDS THAT A COIL WAS BAD AND YOU HAVE TO DO IT AGAIN LIKE I DID.

1. Tools: Pliers, ratchet wrench, ratchet wrench socket extension, 8 mm socket, 10 mm socket, Spark plug socket, flat head screw driver, plastic zip tie, plastic cup or bowl. Not necessary, but very helpful: Magnet on an antenna to pick up dropped nuts/bolts.

2. All directions are given from a point of reference as if standing in front of the car, except for removing the coils and plugs from firewall (back) side of the engine.

3. Using flat head screwdriver, loosen band clamp on large rubber air intake hose where it connects to the intake manifold on the right side of the engine. Slowly work rubber intake hose off of intake manifold.

4. Unplug wires from back side of air idler valve - small unpainted metal part mounted on top of air intake on manifold (close to where the air intake hose connects to intake manifold).

5. Disconnect small rubber hose from top of the ERG valve (black metal disk near back right side of manifold.

6. Remove the two bolts that hold ERG valve to manifold bracket. Use the 10 mm socket and ratchet to remove these. If you are trying to remove the 8 mm bolts, you are removing the wrong bracket. Be careful, there is a gasket between the manifold and the ERG valve, make sure it does not fall out when removing bolts. Place bolts and gasket in cup.

7. There is a small plastic sensor just to the left of the ERG valve towards the back of the engine. If you look at how the sensor is attached to the manifold, you will see that the back left side bolt that holds this sensor, also connects the intake manifold to a plastic wiring harness at the firewall. You will need to remove the 8 mm nut from this bolt to free up the intake manifold in a later step. Now remove 8 mm bolt from other side of sensor. Might need the socket extension to remove these. Place nut and bolt in cup.

8. Unplug wires from the back of the sensor discussed in the previous step (7).

9. There are 3 hoses of different sizes plugged into the back of the manifold. Unplug all three hoses from manifold. Remove zip ties if needed to slide hoses off. Left hose may have a compression clamp, use pliers to loosen clamp while sliding hose off.

10 There are two large black plastic wiring connectors supported by the back left side of the manifold. They are supported by plastic clips with plastic barbs. Use the flat head screw driver to pry off the support clips from the manifold - don't worry, you won't break them. You will be able to plug them back in later.

11. There are still a few things attached to the intake manifold, but there will be enough flexibility now to lift up the manifold and replace the spark plugs.

12. Remove the plastic engine cover - there are three 8 mm nuts to remove. You will need the socket extension. One the nuts are removed, you will have to wiggle the cover off especially on right side. Place nuts in cup.

13. The plastic intake manifold on top of the engine is now exposed. If you look down at the front side of the engine, you will see the coils for cylinders 4, 5 and 6 (going from left to right). The tops of the coils will probably say "Motorcraft" on them. Also, there are two cables attached to the top of the manifold - leave them alone.

14. There are 8 bolts that hold the intake manifold down. The bolts are located in two rows of 4 across the top of the manifold. Loosen them all using the 8 mm socket with extension. Note: these bolts do not come completely out when fully loosened.

15. Slowly work the intake manifold loose by lifting up on each side. NOTE: Work the manifold off of the bolt discussed in step 7 (back right side of manifold), NOTE: Work slowly watching for anything that might be hanging up. You should eventually be able to get about 4" of clearance between the back right side of the manifold and engine, and 8-10" of clearance on the back left side. Move around to the passenger side to help lift off the manifold. While working on the back side plugs, you will stand on the passenger side of the car.

16. Once you are able to lift up the manifold, get a cup, block of wood, anything suitable approx. 5" tall to prop up the manifold (place under center of manifold). This will keep the manifold off your hands while you are working.

17. The three coils on the back side of the engine are now visible if you are standing on the passenger side of the car (cylinders 1, 2 and 3) Cylinder 1 is closest to you - passenger side, cylinder 3 is furthest from you - driver side.

18. Each coil has one 8 mm bolt holding it down. Take the 8 mm socket and ratchet and remove the bolts from the 3 coils on the back side of the engine. Place bolts in cup.

19. Lift each coil away from engine (do not pull on wires plugged into the coil). Pull each coil's silicon rubber tube out of spark plug hole, bend tube to get it out without pulling on the coil wiring. Leave coils plugged in and lay them to the side. NOTE: If you are looking to replace a coil (or coils) simply unplug the coil wires from the old coil, and plug into new coil at this stage.

20. Using sparkplug socket and socket extension, remove each of the back 3 spark plugs.

21. Install the new spark plugs (gap them first if they are gap type).

22. Slide each coil rubber tube back into sparkplug hole and bolt down coil (8 mm bolt). Congratulations! The hard part is over with!

23. Make sure the rectangular intake port gaskets are clean on the engine (before lowering the intake manifold back down).

24. Slowly work the intake manifold back down to the top of the engine - make sure that the manifold is back on the bold discussed in step 7, and that nothing is binding.

25. Bolt the manifold back down (eight bolts, 8 mm, still attached to the manifold). Use 8 mm socket with extension. Gradually tighten the bolts going from bolt to bolt until they are all tight (don't fully tighten one bolt first).

26. Remove coils and spark plugs on front side of engine. Replace spark plugs and re-install coils. Same procedure as back side of engine, but much easier. Replace coil(s) if desired.

27. Re-install the two plastic wiring connector support clips to the left side of the manifold - push barbed clips into manifold.

28. Reconnect 3 hoses to back side of manifold. Place new plastic zip tie on hose that had zip tie.

29. Reinstall plastic sensor on back right side of manifold (8 mm nut and 8 mm bolt).

30. Plug in wires back into back side of plastic sensor.

31. Reinstall 10 mm bolts and gasket on ERG valve and tighten to manifold.

32. Reconnect small rubber hose to top of ERG valve.

33. Reconnect large air intake hose to intake manifold and tighten hose clamp using flathead screwdriver.

34. Plug wires back into back of idle air control valve (this was uplugged in step 4).

35. Leave the plastic engine cover off for now. Check all around the manifold and make sure everything is reconnected.

36. Start engine - should start and run normally (or better). If not, go to trouble shooting at the end.

37. Reinstall plastic engine cover (three 8 mm nuts). Make sure engine is not running when reinstalling plastic cover.

TROUBLE SHOOTING: If engine light comes on (and wasn't on before changing plugs), or if engine runs rough, stop engine and double check that all wires and hoses are plugged back in. If you find wires or hose left disconnected, reconnect them. Disconnect car battery for a few minutes then reconnect (to clear out engine alarm). Restart car, engine should run well, engine light should be cleared.

on May 01, 2010 | Mazda Tribute Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Why changing my spark plugs on my 98 licoln towncar noticed radiator fluid on my spark plug and coil pack for cylinder three but that is the only place i can find the fluid what is my problem


Your intake manifold has a coolant hose attached to the top of it at the back left corner (passenger side). They are bad about cracking at the neck of the fitting. Ford as an updated Intake Manifold to address this issue so your not alone. It cannot be repaired without complete relacement.

Jun 29, 2011 | Lincoln Town Car Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Where is the thermostat located on a 1994 Cutlass Ciera with a V6?


The thermostat is on passenger side right center of engine .Stand at passenger side with hood open look down and over at center and toward the right at the intake manifold...it is hard to see without removing engine components....Follow upper radiator hose from radiator to the intake where the other end of hose connects and that is where the thermostat is.....Be sure engine is not running and cool to the touch for safety reasons while looking........SAFETY FIRST
Hope this will help you......................................................Metalpoet

Feb 28, 2011 | 1994 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera

1 Answer

Do I have to take the top in take manafold off to tighten the lower intake manafold on a 1993 buick regal 3.8 L engine?


Yes you do, the following info explains the necessary procedure.



Click here to enlarge image.
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  1. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure.
  2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Place a clean drain pan under the radiator, open the drain **** and drain the cooling system.
  3. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the fuel injector sight shield.
  4. Disconnect the cables from the throttle body and mount bracket.
  5. Remove the coolant recovery reservoir.
  6. Remove the inner fender electrical cover on the right side.
  7. Remove the right rear crossover pipe heat shield.
  8. Disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel rail and from the cable bracket.
  9. Remove the alternator and brace.
  10. Remove the throttle body cable mounting bracket with the vacuum lines and disconnect the vacuum lines.
  11. Tag and detach the electrical connections at the throttle body and both banks of fuel injectors.
  12. Disconnect the vacuum hoses from the canister purge solenoid valve and transaxle module and intake connection.
  13. Unbolt the power steering pump and move forward. DO NOT disconnect the fluid lines.
  14. Tag and disconnect the spark plug wires position lay aside.
  15. Disconnect the coolant bypass hose from the intake manifold.
  16. Remove the solenoid valve mounting bracket and power steering support brace from the intake manifold.
  17. Disconnect the heater pipes from the intake and front cover.
  18. Remove the alternator support brace from the intake.
  19. Disconnect the upper radiator hose from the housing.
  20. Remove the thermostat housing and thermostat from the intake.
  21. Detach the electrical connector from the temperature sensor and sensor switch.
  22. Unfasten the intake manifold bolts, then remove the manifold as an assembly. Remove and discard the gaskets.
  23. If separating the upper manifold from the lower, proceed as follows:
  24. Remove the fuel rail and fuel injectors.
  25. Detach the coolant sensor switch.
  26. Remove the manifold end cap cover.
  27. Remove the upper intake manifold and throttle body assembly from the lower manifold. Remove and discard the gaskets. To install:
  28. Thoroughly clean all gasket mating surfaces.
  29. If replacing the upper manifold, proceed as follows:
  30. Apply a 1⁄16 in. bead of Loctite® Instant Gasket Eliminator 51845 or equivalent to the lower manifold mating surface. Make sure to circle all bolt holes.
  31. Carefully lower the upper manifold and throttle body assembly onto the lower manifold.
  32. Tighten the upper manifold retaining bolts to 19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm).
  33. Install the manifold end cap cover and the coolant sensor switch.
  34. Install the fuel injectors and rail to the manifold assembly.
  35. Clean the mating surfaces and install the intake manifold gaskets and seals. Apply sealer to the ends of the of the intake manifold seals.
  36. Position the intake manifold and apply a suitable thread lock compound to the bolt threads. Tighten the retaining bolts to 88 inch lbs. (10 Nm), twice, in the sequence shown in the accompanying figure.
  37. Attach the electrical connector to the temperature sensor and sensor switch.
  38. Install the thermostat housing and thermostat with a new gasket.
  39. Connect the alternator support brace to the intake.
  40. Install the solenoid valve mounting bracket and power steering support brace to the intake manifold.
  41. Connect the heater pipes to the intake and front cover.
  42. Attach the coolant bypass hose to the intake manifold.
  43. Install the power steering pump support bracket and tighten to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).
  44. Install the spark plug wires on both sides.
  45. Install the belt tensioner pulley and tighten to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
  46. Install the power steering pump.
  47. Connect the vacuum hoses to the canister purge solenoid valve and transaxle module and intake connection.
  48. Attach the electrical connections at the throttle body and both banks of fuel injectors.
  49. Install the alternator and brace.
  50. Connect the throttle body cable mounting bracket with the vacuum lines.
  51. Install the right rear crossover pipe heat shield.
  52. Install the cables to the throttle body.
  53. Connect the fuel lines to the fuel rail and mount bracket.
  54. Install the inner fender electrical cover on the right side.
  55. Install the coolant recovery reservoir and upper radiator hose. Fill the cooling system.
  56. Install the air cleaner assembly and the fuel injector sight shield.
  57. Connect the negative battery cable.

Jan 31, 2011 | 1993 Buick Regal

2 Answers

I need to know how to change the back three spark plugs on my 2008 ford edge , do i remove the manifold.to get to them, is it safe


Yes, you will have to remove the intake manifold. If you are mechanically inclined, it's not that hard. Looks complicated because of all the wires and hoses. Just take your time, keep track of everything you do, take notes if you have to, so everything goes back together the same way it came apart. Since you are going to all this trouble be sure you buy a premium spark plug. I wouldn't use Champion or Ford products. NGK Iridium would be my choice if they are available.

Jan 01, 2011 | 2008 Ford Edge

1 Answer

Torque sequence for 1996 chevrolet van intake manifold with a 4.3 litre moter


Ha, you tried to fool me with the bit about a 3.5 L motor--I could find that one...here is the complete procedure from AutoZone.com:




Installation To install:
  1. Clean the gasket mounting surfaces. Be sure to inspect the manifold for warpage and/or cracks. If necessary, replace it.
  2. Position the gaskets on the cylinder head with the port blocking plates to the rear and the This Side Up stamps facing upward. Then apply a 3 / 16 in. (5mm) bead of RTV sealant on the front and rear of the engine block at the block-to-manifold mating surface. Extend the bead 1 / 2 in. (13mm) up each cylinder head to seal and retain the gaskets.

    0996b43f80208c7b.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Lower intake manifold tightening sequence-4.3L engines
  3. Install the lower intake manifold. Tighten the bolts in sequence and in 3 steps, as follows:


    1. Step 1: 26 inch lbs. (3 Nm).
    2. Step 2: 106 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
    3. Step 3: 133 inch. lbs. (15 Nm).

  4. Install or connect the following:

    Power steering pump Alternator bracket bolt near the thermostat housing Wiring harness to the lower manifold components, including the injector, EGR valve and ECT sensor Air conditioning compressor bracket-to-the lower intake manifold pencil braces
  5. Install transmission oil dipstick tube, if necessary.

    Fuel supply and return lines to the rear of the lower intake
  6. Temporarily reattach the negative battery cable, then pressurize the fuel system (by cycling the ignition without starting the engine) and check for leaks.
  7. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  8. Install or connect the following:

    Heater hose to the lower intake Upper radiator hose to the thermostat housing Distributor assembly and engage the wiring Ignition coil Connect vacuum hoses to the upper and lower intake manifold. New upper intake manifold gasket, making sure the green sealing lines are facing upward Upper intake manifold Manifold retainers. Tighten them to 88 inch lbs. (10 Nm) using two passes. Purge solenoid and bracket Brake booster vacuum hose at the upper intake manifold PCV hose to the rear of the upper intake manifold Vacuum hoses to both the front and rear of the manifold assembly Throttle body Throttle linkage to the upper intake Wiring to the upper intake components including the TP sensor, IAC motor, MAP sensor and the fuel meter Engine cover Air intake assembly
  9. Connect negative battery cable.
  10. Refill the engine cooling system.
  11. Start the engine and check for leaks.

Aug 26, 2010 | 1996 Chevrolet Astro

1 Answer

Replace starter


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

3.0L Engine
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle securely on jackstands.
  3. Remove the terminal nuts, washers, and electrical leads from the starter motor.
  4. Remove the passenger side catalytic converter.
  5. Remove the passenger side engine mount nuts, and lower the vehicle.
  6. Disconnect the resonance chamber-to-throttle body ducts.
    1. Detach the electrical connector for the Mass Air Flow (MAF) and the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensors.
    2. Disconnect the resonance chamber air intake hose from the air cleaner housing and MAF sensor.
    3. Remove the (IAC) inlet hose and the intake plenum air inlet hoses.
    4. Detach the electrical connector from the switchover valve and the remaining vacuum connections.

  7. Install the engine support fixture J28467-A with adapters J28467-450 or equivalents and raise the passenger side of the engine.
NOTE Passenger side of the engine must be raised approximately 1.5 inches (38 mm).
  1. Raise and safely support the vehicle securely on jackstands.
  2. Remove the engine mount from the engine mount bracket and cradle.
  3. Remove the engine mount bracket bolts and reposition the bracket.
  4. Remove the starter motor from the vehicle.
To install:
  1. Install the starter motor to the vehicle and tighten the bolts to 44 ft. lbs. (60 Nm).
  2. Position the engine mount bracket and install the bolts. Tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
  3. Install the engine mount to the engine mount bracket and cradle. Partially lower the vehicle.
  4. Lower the engine. Have an assistant guide the engine mount into place while lowering the engine. The engine mount locator tab must engage the slot in the cradle.
  5. Reinstall the resonance chamber-to-throttle body ducts.
  6. Raise the vehicle.
  7. Install the passenger side engine mount nuts. Tighten the upper nut to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm). Tighten the lower nut to 41 ft. lbs. (55 Nm).
  8. Install the passenger side catalytic converter.
  9. Plug in the electrical leads, install the washers, and terminal nuts to the starter motor. Tighten the battery cable terminal nut to 115 inch lbs. (13 Nm). And the solenoid terminal nut to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).
  10. Lower the vehicle.
  11. Connect the negative battery cable.

4.6L Engine
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Disconnect the positive battery cable.
NOTE In order to get to the starter assembly the intake manifold must be removed. Refer to the procedure for removing the intake manifold.
  1. Reposition the front bank spark plug wires.
  2. Remove the air intake duct from the throttle body.
  3. Detach the electrical connectors for the intake manifold, Throttle Position (TP) sensor, and Idle Speed Control (ISC) motor, Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Control solenoid and Cruise Control Servo.
  4. Disconnect the vacuum hoses at the brake vacuum booster, fuel pipe bundle and to the body.
  5. Disconnect the PCV hoses at the intake manifold.
  6. Unhook the accelerator cable at the throttle body and position it out of the way.
  7. Relieve the fuel system pressure. Disconnect the fuel pipe quick connects at the fuel pipe bundle in the engine compartment.
  8. Remove the EVAP solenoid bracket at the rear (or right) cam cover.
  9. Reposition the transaxle range control cable away from the cruise control servo.
  10. Disconnect the coolant hoses at the throttle body and to the coolant reservoir and plug the hoses. Wrap a shop towel around the hoses when disconnecting to avoid spillage.
  11. Remove the four intake manifold bolts and lift the intake manifold with the throttle body out of the engine compartment.
  12. Unbolt the solenoid 'S' terminal nut and battery cable nut. Remove the starter motor mounting bolts, and lift the starter motor out of the manifold cavity.
To install:

NOTE Before installing the starter motor to the engine, tighten inner nuts on the solenoid terminals to be sure they are secure in the cap. Tighten the inner nuts on the battery terminal and motor terminal to 71 inch lbs. (8 Nm). If the nuts are not properly tightened, the starter may fail later due to the terminal or cap damage.
  1. Install the solenoid switch lead, and tighten the nut to 22 inch lbs. (2.5 Nm).
  2. Install the battery cable nut and tighten to 71 inch lbs. (8 Nm).
  3. Install the starter motor and tighten the mounting bolts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
  4. Install the intake manifold with the throttle body onto the engine and install the four bolts. The four intake manifold bolts must be tightend in a specific sequence to 71 inch lbs. (8 Nm), then an additional 120°.
  5. Connect the coolant hoses at the throttle body and at the coolant reservoir. Add coolant as needed.
  6. Position the transaxle range control cable to the cruise control bracket.
  7. Fasten the EVAP solenoid bracket to the rear cam cover.
  8. Reconnect the fuel pipes quick connects at the fuel pipe bundle in the engine compartment.
  9. Hook the accelerator cable up at the throttle body.
  10. Connect the vacuum hoses at the brake vacuum booster, fuel pipe bundle and to the body. Install the PCV hose at the intake manifold.
  11. Install the electrical connectors for the intake manifold, the TP sensor ISC motor, EVAP solenoid and the cruise control servo.
  12. Install the air intake duct to the throttle body.
  13. Reposition the front bank spark plug wires.
  14. Connect the negative battery cable.
  15. Connect the positive battery cable.

4.5L and 4.9L Engines
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle securely on jackstands.
  3. Remove the starter motor shield.
  4. Remove the exhaust front and rear pipe assembly.
  5. Remove the flexplate inspection cover.
  6. Disconnect the solenoid 'S' terminal nut and battery cable nut.
  7. Unbolt the starter motor mounting bolts, and remove the starter motor.
e2d3282.jpg
Fig. Typical starter mounting on early models

b5066a8.jpg
Fig. Later model starter location and mounting on the 4.9L engine


a697aa3.jpg
Fig. Starter mounting on 4.5L engine with a starter shield


To install:
  1. Install the starter motor, and tighten to 32 ft. lbs. (43 Nm).
  2. Install the solenoid 'S' terminal nut. Tighten the nut to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).
  3. Install the battery cable nut and tighten to 12 ft. lbs. (15 Nm).
  4. Install the flexplate inspection cover, the front and rear exhaust pipe assembly and the starter motor shield.
  5. Lower the vehicle.
  6. Connect the negative battery cable.

Hope trhis help (remember comment and rated this).

Apr 08, 2010 | 1992 Cadillac DeVille

1 Answer

Air vent selection not working correctly.


ok there are three places to look! first open hood one the drivers side look at the intake manifold and see if theres a loose vacuum hose if so connect it to the port! second passenger side look on the floor twoards the dash in the center the are vac lines there same goes for the drivers side near gas pedal

Mar 17, 2010 | 2002 Jeep Wrangler

2 Answers

Selector knob won't chage from defrost, knob moves but won't chage function.


Probably a vacuum line. Most heater controls are ran by vacuum and their is one vacuum line that goes from the troddle body to the firewall on the passenger side of the car. Check for a broken hose.

Jan 07, 2010 | 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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