Need to identify an DELPHI alternator and install it in a street rod. Have 5 pictures of unit. Russ Nordman 262-538-4067

Sounds like good advice...you may be able to replace both side tie rods yourself...you MUST get your alignment set after the installation. Please follow this problem, as steering and control issues will bad:( If questions, get a second opinion, and estimate...

if it is just the one battery, put the isolator on the ground wire
if the ground wire is turned off by the isolator , there is no circuit

if the battery light is coming on then you have two possibilities and tahs a faulty alternator or a faulty alternator warning light control either way you will need to change the alternator to fix the problem.Use a genuine bosch unit is my best advice and not a back street recon thing

problem voltage regulator not alternators
voltage should be 14.5-14.8 v dc maximum,

5 million made.
it's in the fsm book
posted here over 300 times.
are you asking , how to set rockers ?

chapter 9 page 27
------------------text fsm---------------------
INSPECTION
Inspect the pivot surface area of each rocker arm.
Replace any that are scuffed, pitted, cracked or
excessively worn.
Inspect the valve stem tip contact surface of each
rocker arm and replace any rocker arm that is deeply
pitted.
Inspect each push rod end for excessive wear and
replace as required. If any push rod is excessively
worn because of lack of oil, replace it and inspect the
corresponding hydraulic tappet for excessive wear.
Inspect the push rods for straightness by rolling
them on a flat surface or by shining a light between
the push rod and the flat surface.
A wear pattern along the length of the push rod is
not normal. Inspect the engine cylinder head for
obstruction if this condition exists.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: This procedure can be done with the engine
in or out of the vehicle.
(1) Lubricate the ball ends of the push rods with
Mopart Engine Oil Supplement, or equivalent and
install push rods in their original locations. Ensure
that the bottom end of each push rod is centered in
the tappet plunger cap seat.
(2) Using Mopart Engine Oil Supplement, or
equivalent, lubricate the area of the rocker arm that
the pivot contacts. Install rocker arms, pivots and
bridge above each cylinder in their originally position
(Fig. 23).
(3) Loosely install the capscrews through each
bridge.
(4) At each bridge, tighten the capscrews alternately,
one turn at a time, to avoid damaging the
bridge. Tighten the capscrews to 28 N·m (21 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(5) Install the engine cylinder head cover (Refer to
9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).

3.9L, 5.2L, and 5.9L Engines To Remove:
3.9L Engine

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Battery negative cable
   • Coolant
   • Intake manifold-to-alternator bracket support rod
   • Alternator
   • Closed crankcase ventilation system
   • Evaporation control system
   • Air cleaner, air in-let hose and resonator
3. Release fuel system pressure.
4. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Fuel supply line from the fuel rail
   • Accelerator linkage and, the speed control and transmission kickdown cables (if equipped)
   • Distributor cap and wires
   • Coil wires
   • Coolant temperature sending unit wire
   • Heater hoses and bypass hose
   • Vacuum supply hoses from the intake manifold (3.9L Engine)
   • Fuel injector harness and secure out of the way (3.9L Engine)
   • Cylinder head covers and gaskets
   • Intake manifold and throttle body as an assembly
   • Exhaust manifolds
   • Rocker arm assemblies and push rods, and identify to ensure installation in original locations.
   • Head bolts from each cylinder head and remove cylinder heads
   • Spark plugs

To Install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   • New cylinder head gaskets into position on the cylinder block
   • Cylinder heads onto head gaskets and cylinder block
2. Tighten all cylinder head bolts, starting at top center and in sequence
   1. Torque to: 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm)
   2. Repeat and Torque to: 105 ft. lbs. (143 Nm)
   CAUTION
   When tightening the rocker arm bolts, ensure that the piston in that cylinder is NOT at TDC.
   
3. Install or connect the following:
   • Push rods and rocker arm assemblies in their original positions.
     1. Torque to: 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm)
   • Intake manifold and throttle body assembly
   • Exhaust manifolds
   • Spark plugs
     1. Torque to: 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)
   • Coil wires
   • Coolant temperature sending unit wire
   • Fuel injector harness (3.9L Engine)
   • Vacuum supply hoses to the intake manifold (3.9L Engine)
   • Heater hoses and bypass hose
   • Distributor cap and wires
   • Accelerator linkage and the speed control and transmission kickdown cables
   • Fuel supply line.
   • Alternator and accessory drive belt.
     1. Alternator bolt - Torque to: 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)
   • Intake manifold-to-alternator bracket support rod and bolts
   • Cylinder head covers
   • Closed crankcase ventilation system
   • Evaporation control system
   • Resonator assembly (3.9L Engine), air in-let hose and air cleaner
   • Heat shields
     1. Torque to: 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)
   • Coolant
   • Negative battery cable.

You can answer your own question by getting a wiring diagram. If you can build a street rod,you don't need any help.

Fig. Fig. 5: Alternator mounting-2.5L engine

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Release the drive belt tensioner and remove the drive belt from around the alternator.
3. Raise and support the vehicle.
4. Remove the passenger side front wheel and fender well splash guard.
5. Disconnect the passenger side outer tie rod end from the spindle. See .
6. Remove the exhaust system Y-pipe.
7. Unplug the connectors and remove the cables from the alternator.
8. Remove the alternator brace retaining bolts and the brace from the vehicle.
9. Remove the passenger side halfshaft. See .
10. Remove the alternator mounting bolts and remove the alternator from the passenger side fenderwell.

To install:

1. Install the alternator on the bracket and tighten the mounting bolts to 29-40 ft. lbs. (40-55 Nm).
2. Install the passenger side halfshaft. See .
3. Install the alternator brace and tighten the retaining bolts to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm).
4. Install the alternator connectors and the cables. Tighten the terminal nut to 80-97 inch lbs. (9-11 Nm).
5. Install the exhaust system Y-pipe.
6. Install the passenger side outer tie rod end to the spindle.See .
7. Install the passenger side fender well splash guard and front wheel.
8. Lower the vehicle.
9. Release the drive belt tensioner and install the drive belt pulley over the alternator pulley.
10. Connect the negative battery cable.

there is a base Delphi AD230 102- amp
there is a diesel model with dual generators Delphi AD244 130 amp
there is also a Bosch generator used on single generator models Bosch 15755900 130 amp

Tricky ... Was the alternator replaced with a 2nd hand one or a new one?

A defective alternator can allow the battery to discharge within a few minutes (the diodes in the rear of the alternator can burn out and cause the problem. The diode pack can be replaced). When this happens recharging the battery only replaces the power in the battery - which drains straight back to earth via the alternator, flattening the battery again - often within a couple of minutes or less.

Does the battery lose its charge when the car is standing or just when the engine is fired up?
If the battery loses its charge overnight, try disconnecting the wiring from the rear of the alternator (also look at the electrical connector that fits into the back of the alternator - look for melting/burning marks which suggest something may be amiss inside the alternator).

Let the car stand overnight with the alternator wires disconnected. Will it start up ok and drive (with the alternator wires still disconnected) the next morning?

You could also try just disconnecting the alternator wires, firing up the car and then driving it -
If the car drives ok without dying out and gets further down the street than it usually does, then it probably is the alternator at fault. The car should drive until the battery drains and has insufficient power to trigger the ignition. You certainly would get further down the street with a charged battery and disconnected alternator than you currently do.

It does sound as though you've had an alternator fault to begin with. If it has been replaced with a 2nd hand unit that unit may also be faulty. Rather than replace parts in desperation, visit an auto electrician's - within a few minutes they will be able to test the battery/alternator output and also identify where the lost current is going. It will be cheaper in the long run to have an auto electrician look at the charging system. It only takes a few minutes.