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BREAKS!!! Where does the break fluid go?

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The brake reservoir is underhood. You'll see it mounted to the firewall at the back of the engine bay, in front of the driver's seat position. It's the only reservoir there, and sits on top of a cylinder made of metal. Should say something like DOT3 or DOT4/5 FLUID ONLY on it - that's the brake reservoir.

Posted on Aug 09, 2008


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 84 El Camino breaks are going to the floor.

Bleed the brakes from the farthest brake line first at the rear wheel cyl. and front calipers. 2 people make this easier pump the brakes and hold down have someone crack open the bleeder screw then tighten it let up on the pedal pump up agian crack screw repeat on all 4 wheels. Note; never let up on the brake while screw is open. you will need to do this many times per wheel. just because you are getting brake fluid out does not meen you do not have air comming down the line. Before doing this fix your leak. It is a broken line or rear wheel cylender most likley. Brake fluid is bad stuff be sure to catch all that comes out and take to a shop to get rid of it. Do not get it on your paint. To be a little cleaner with this get some clear 1/4" hose to put on the bleeder screw and collect the brake fluid in a jar. 1/4" is about normal size but you could make any small vacuum line work.
Or, take it to a repair shop. Bring your wallet.

Posted on Mar 01, 2009

  • 7 Answers

SOURCE: I have bleed rear breaks.I

I'm confused, how did U bleed the rear brakes and there's no fluid to them? first of all U need to get fluid to the rear.

  1. Make sure there fluid in the brake reserve
  2. leave the cap off the reserve
  3. crack open the furthest bleeder valve till fluid come out (take it off if U have 2)
  4. if nothing still come out, then U have a clogged brake line
  5. blow back through the line from the brake side (slow till it bubbles back through the reserve
  6. then gravity bleed it, tighten up the the valve
  7. now U can bleed the brakes

Posted on May 04, 2009

  • 6982 Answers

SOURCE: bleeding the breaks

Get a short piece of hose and attach it to the bleed valve. Put the free end in a jar that has some fluid in it and put the free end of the hose into the fluid. Put the container lower than the item you are bleeding. Open the valve and work the pedal gently a few times, then wait...gravity will finish for you. Close valve and go to the next wheel.Get the bleeders free and clear them of debris before putting the hose on (hose should fit well, can't be loose or it won't work.) Monitor the master cylinder so it does not run low and leave the cap off while doing this. I use clear plastic hose so I can see the air as it comes out but you can use black hose and just watch the end for bubbles.

Posted on Aug 13, 2009

  • 3489 Answers

SOURCE: problem with bleeding my breaks

this sounds like a autozone master cylinder. all you can do is go get another one. the best way, and quickest way to tell if this one is going to work is to install the master onto the booster and bleed it there by filling it up, snugging the lines and having someone inside to push the pedal down, you open the line and watch the stream. as long as you dont see air like when you bleed at the wheels. if you cant get a lack of air, take that 1 back too. the only way to get one thats good right off the bat is to buy the ac delco part it calls for. the people who "rebuild" these other ones dont often measure the inside bore when they put it back together. ive gone through 5 one time. cheers.

Posted on Dec 23, 2009

  • 6826 Answers

SOURCE: i havea 1990 cadillac sedan deville my break pedal

check the master cylinder. It may need to be replaced.. When replacing, make sure to bench bleed it as not doing so would void the warranty.

Posted on Jul 02, 2010

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I need a 1968 oldsmobile torando manual. i have recently finished paying off my beautiful 1968 oldsmobile torando. and she is having some break issues when reversing.please help

I do not have a shop service manual ... but you may have braking challenges in general if this 1968 still has drums up front. This car was notorious for not having good braking (if all 4 wheels had drum brakes).
Anyway ... was the brake fluid real low? ... below the minimum add fluid line? If it was still in the safe zone before you added any more fluid ... then you could have several issues:
  • contaminated brake fluid
  • hole in brake line
  • master cylinder issues
If the fluid was below the minimum .... then there is probably a leak somewhere ... and should be inspected
Does the parking brake still work? That may help you troubleshoot.

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Think master cylinder is going out, had no breaks added fluid and pumped breaks seemed fine when to drive and went out . How can I be sure.

their are two brake lights one for e-brake on and the other is main brake system to alert you to low fluid in master cylinder --you have a leak somewhere look under vehicle for fluid by tires on ground even if you put fluid in master you still wont have brakes do to air in lines and until leak repair

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My brake pedal slowly losing pressure goes to the floor and then I have to pump it up again

If you break fluid level is correct and your break pedal goes down to the floor means that your master cylinder is going bad and you might loose your breaks completely if not checked or replaced. Your breaking system is down to the last O ring inside the master cylinder, once that rubber O rings goes you will not have any breaks at all. Master cylinders have a number of rubber O rings that work like a plunger or piston that produce pressure within the breaking system. When the first one wears down due to age, your pedal begins to loose break pressure and you have to pump your breaks several times to gain breaking. You are now down to the last rubber O ring and a warning that your master cylinder needs to be checked. You can still use your breaks but only for a few days before the other rubber O ring gives out too. Once both O rings give out you completely loose your breaks.

Apr 12, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I just changed the breaks on my 2004 optra 5 ls and there are still spungy? What could be the problem?


Most likely cause is air in the break lines. This can happen if the break lines are not bled during the break job. If you did bleed the lines during the job you may be low on break fluid. If the fluid level is OK then you should bleed the breaks again, making sure the fluid level stays high.

Jan 29, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

When i press the breaks the breaks pedal goes all the way to the floor

you either have a busted break line or your master cylinder needs to be replaced. check around all wheels for fluid leakage , If no fluid seen check to see if the cylinder is full , If mot fill it and pump the breaks and look again for fluid leakage.

Feb 13, 2013 | 2001 Hyundai Santa Fe

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My ABS light came on in my 99 honda accord what does it mean?

Normally when your abs light comes on, that is referring to your breaks. This could be low break fluid, leak in break hose somewhere, or need breaks checked. Most cars now a days, have a sensor that is part of and hooked up to your breaks, and that will trigger your abs system (which is breaks) and let you know if your pads are low, or to the ware mark. So Here is what you first do, is check your break fluid and make sure that resavor is full, check under car to make sure there is no leaks, under car and inside each wheel area where breaks are, and then next step, is Les Swab can check your breaks for free and let you know if your pads are down to the ware mark. Let me know, Mike

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Noticed after parking car there was some fluid leaking fron underneathe the front of the left side of car.

it is probably the breaks fluid is leaking witch is dangerous of losing your breaks power go to the shop now

May 22, 2011 | Chevrolet Impala Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Rear breaks lock up at slow speeds. when traveling from 0 to 10 MPH if breaks are applied abruptly 1 or both of the rear wheels will lock up before the front breaks seem to engage, especially on wet road....

`right one of two problems ,firstly remove the rear drums and check for a fluid leak as a slight smear of fluid will cause the exact problems you describe ,if the rear shoes are dry then push the cylinder each side to make sure its not seized ,secondly check the load sensing valve which will be under the chassis above the back axle,if that appears ok and not seized then remove the master cylinder and take the piston out and check the rubbers and the cylinder bore for wear ,but mainly this fault is caused by the brake shoes having a slight amount of brake fluid contamination and it causes the brakes to grab

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96 nis max rear break dont work

Sounds like you have a blockage in the brake line going to the back breaks...maybe a kink in the brake line or maybe the junction piece (found attached to the bell housing in the back) that sends brake fluid to both breaks in the back is bad. Or your rear breaks need to be adjusted... I would say brake cylinders, but I doubt both would go out at the same time. Also check to make sure your master cylinder is working ok and there is no air in the line...try bleeding the back brakes to see if any fluid is getting to the brake cylinders in the back, this will tell you if you have a kink in the line or air...if it bubbles when you check (bleed the lines) then your problem is air in the line and should be bled until you get a solid flow of break fluid with no bubbles at all. If you want to know how to bleed the rear break just write me back and I will instruct you on how to do that.

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