I am replacing the oil pan gasket and the bolt diagram doesnt match the gasket we are putting on the car. I need the tightening order for the 2000 ford taurus lx with ohv. please and thanks!

You'll need new gasket for oil pan,,,proper socket and drive to fit the bolts around circumference of pan.scraper and new oil or catch pan to save old oil, approx 5 qts . 1/ Begin by draining oil....drain plug on lower part of pan..get that wrench also.....it is larger than bolts arund pan......2/after drained, put drain plug back in and tighten snugly. not too tite......3/remove pan by removing all the nuts around pan, dislodge pan from it's seal , may takea little tender tapping with rubber mallet to release the pan, do not pry at lip, you may damage pan....4/ Clean both sealing surfaces of old gasket.....5/ dampen new gasket with oil and put it on pan in proper position, ....6/put bolts back in pan one on each side to hold pan up,,,put rest of bolts in pan and tighten in random pattern around pan trying to keep pan even at mating to engine.....7/when pan is on and fairly snug, fill the oil into filler at proper fill neck w proper amt of oil. about 5 qts,U.S......Make sure drain plug is not dripping, if so, put a little more torque on it. Not too much,they are prone to strip. Done. Or, about 40 dollars at oil change place.

2001 Monte Carlo Oil Pan Gasket Replace Info

Depends on ease of access. Many oil pans can be dropped without removing the engine. You will have to put car up on ramps and chock the wheels. Set emergency brakes and make sure car is in Park. I know, sounds like overkill, but better to much safety than one deadly accident. Drain your oil pan just like you would to do an oil change. Locate your oil pan bolts and carefully remove them. This should allow the pan to drop free for the gasket to be replaced. The leak may be due to loosened or lost bolts and not a bad gasket. You might try tightening them first and replacing any lost ones. Be sure not to over-tighten or could could bend the pan and that's a whole new bucket of problems. If you do replace the gasket, clean both surfaces, put new gasket on pan with a THIN bead of gasket sealant, put a THIN smear on top of the gasket and put back onto engine block. Tighten bolts to specified torque. May as well put on a new oil filter. No sense keeping cruddy oil filter with new oil. PUT OIL IN ENGINE. Remove from ramp and let run a bit, shut off for 5 minutes and recheck oil level. Be forewarned, this is a really dirty, crungy job. Wear clothes you're not emotionally attached to. Have hot water and dish soap at the ready to clean-up. No body wants to grab a door knob that's got yucky motor oil on it. And jump straight to the shower.

Find your oil pan's drain plug -- it just looks like a bolt from the outside. Use this to drain the oil from your vehicle first (keeps you from getting covered in oil later). Once the oil has drained out (usually it will still be dripping, but that's OK) put the plug back in so you won't get dripped on. Then find all of the bolts around the pan that you just drained -- there should be several around the top of the oil pan connecting it to the engine. Once you have removed all of these bolts, the oil pan should come off relatively easily -- most times it gets a little stuck to the oil pan seal, so you might have to pull on it a little, or if it's really stuck, you might have to pry it off (be careful not to damage the oil pan when doing this). If you notice that the oil pan is REALLY stuck on there, make sure you got ALL of the bolts (if you miss one the pan will not move).
Once the oil pan is off the car, and you have done what you need to do, clean the surfaces where the oil pan will connect back to the car -- making certain that the old gasket has been totally removed (leaving debris from the old oil pan seal will keep the new seal from functioning correctly. When you go to put the pan back on the car, make sure you have the oil pan seal set perfectly where it is supposed to go, then hand tighten the bolts back where they should be. Don't tighten all of the bolts down quite yet.
Check to make sure that the oil pan seal has not moved out of place, then tighten one bolt, but not ALL the way tight yet. Once you have one bold mostly tightened with your wrench, start tightening the bolt on the opposite side of the pan from the first one you just tightened -- and make this one about as tight as the first one. Next, double check that the seal has not moved, and then tighten a bolt on a 90 degree angle from your first two. Next, do the bolt opposite the third. Work on one bolt at a time, making sure that you don't tighten two bolts next to each other in a row. This will help you make sure you do not move or distort your oil pan seal as you are replacing the oil pan. I don't know the exact number of bolts, but if you follow the pattern from the diagram below as much as you can, you should not have too many problems. Once all of the bolts have been wrench tightened in this order (or similar depending on how many bolts there are, and their placement) go around the pan one more time, making sure that all of the bolts are nice and snug and you should be just about done -- don't forget to put more oil in the car before you turn it on :-)
Bolt Tightening to keep pan seal from slipping out of place:
1 ----- 9 ----- 6 -----4 ' ' 7 8 ' ' 3 ----- 5 ---- 10 --- 2

Mazda Protege Oil Pan

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Anyone order in there... just position the oil pan and secure with the oil pan-to-engine bolts. Tighten the bolts to 124 inch lbs. (14 Nm). Do NOT overtighten the bolts, as this will damage the oil pan, causing a leak.



Hope helps (remember rated and comment this).

normally a gasket between oil pan or sump as we call it try tighten the ring of bolts on oil pan

pull plug drain oil take bolts off around pan and drop then clean old gasket off and replace gasket then pan tightening bolts in a random order do not over tighten

drain the oil
remove all bolts from the pan.
verify new gasket hole patern matches your pan
use a high temperature silicone and put silicone on pan and stick new gasket to pan makig sure all holes line up.
when re-installing start at the corners of the oil pan and then go in a clockwise motion adding one bolt to the opposite side if the corner bolts until all bolts have been replaced.
tighten all bolts evenly starting in the cornersdo a criss cross pattern when tightening bolts to make sure pan seats properly
go back and snug any loose bolts
if you have a torque wrench or want to rent one go ahead and torque bolts to.
done.

It shouldn't be that big of a deal. If the oil pan is the only part that has oil on it, it is most likely an oil pan gasket or rtv sealant that needs to be replaced. If you have actual holes in the pan then your problem is probably bigger. Depending on how bad the rust is, getting those fasenters out might present a problem so I would try turning a couple before draining all the oil. If the bolts turn then drain the oil from the plug as if you were doing an oil change. There are twelve of these bolts and there is a proper untightening and tightening sequence which is difficult to explain without a diagram but try and work in a spiral pattern from the center. Once it is off make sure you scrape all rtv off and any oil residue otherwise it will leak again. Re-apply rtv or whatever ford recommends and when it is ready, put it back trying to tighten the bolts from the center working your way out in a criss cross spiral pattern. Hope all goes well