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Re: civic SI 5-speed transmission/clutch
It depends on how high your reving the engine. if your at the stock a3 rev limit (6900-7000 rpms), between 400 and 450whp. the shaft the gears are on starts to flex and gears separate, causing minimal engagement, which rounds off the edges of the gears.
with a almost stock a3 tranny (stock + quaife LSD), 415whp and 9000rpm rev-limit, it took 1 good race at the drags to damage the 1st and 2nd gear syncros. after a few more races the gears were moderately damaged too.
as far as a good clutch, if you can afford it, i would recommend the FX600 from ClutchMasters.
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If the shift lever is what is hard & sticky, get some grease & lube the handle at the joint at the trans. ( Maint. anyway) . The right gear oil? Was it doing it before the oil chg ? How's the clutch feel? Clutch, Pressure plate & throw out bearing poss. Smell any burning smells? One step at a time. Good luck
I see this a lot on cars that folks use for "non transportation" uses(racing) , I assume that u left the diag port in wire harness (hope so cus now you need it ) plug a code reader in port and look for major faults , could be as simple as a part u took off to gain some Hp (catalytic convertor) or clearances for speed equipment (turbo) and the stock brain box didn't like it being taken away !!
code reader are so cheap nodays every one should have one , ive even got one now that wirelessly connects my smart phone to car to ck all that ales it while u drive wow !! and it wasn't expensive
Tap on the starter with a hammer, but don't hit the wires to the battery, then try it, if that don't work check the cables from the battery to the starter to see if the bolts are tight. But first take the hot cable off the battery, so you don't short out the starter or the battery. And also clean and tighten the cables to the battery.
You can determine where your car was made by examining the VIN
H ] - JHM = Honda Motor Co. passenger car
E ╗ EG1 = D15B7 (93-95 S)
G ] - Engine: EG2 = B16A2 (96-97 VTEC), B16A3 (94-95 VTEC)
2 ╝ EH6 = D16Y7 (96-97 S), D16Y8 (96-97 Si), D16Z6 (93-95 Si)
1 ] - Body/Transmission: 1 = 2-door manual 5-speed 2 = 2-door automatic
6 ] - Vehicle Series: 4 = S 6 = Si 7 or 9 = Si with ABS, or VTEC
? ] - math check digit
R ] - Model Year: P = 1993, R = 1994, S = 1995, T = 1996, V = 1997
S ] - Assembly Plant: C = Sayama, S = Suzuka, T = Tochigi
5 ] - Serial number, based on the sequence off the
7 ║ production line
start with intake manifold cold air intake not a short ram intake performance spark plugs wires and distributor cap, headers exhaust system not a tip.
make sure you have an LSD transmission then pull apart the motor mainly the head change out valves, spring retainers, and springs. new camshafts make sure you buy the springs and spring retainers before you put in the new cams. if you have the money to bore out the block it be better to take your block clean it up and put darton sleeves then buy a new crankshaft new psitons and rods with new rings all of this will cost a good deal but will increase performance a turbo should be the last thing you do increase the motor HP and max it out then put in a turbo but ensure your car is sleeved darton sleeves are the best never had a problem. i used to own a 2000 honda civic si i pushed 239 HP staright motor B16A2 motor. good luck any other questions let me know
Providing there are no oil leaks at all, some transmission stabilizer may help. Any experience i've had with a whining 5 speed, is not good. Usually it's a bearing on it's way out. Try some of this, and see if it makes any difference.
RISLONE® TRANSMISSION STABILIZER
You could do this job your self just pay attention and take your time. If the gear box went out you may want to replace the whole transmission all together. It will save you time and money in the long run. If it has a lot of miles it probably wont be long before the rest of the transmission goes out trust me i have three of them with the same problem that are no good.