Question about 2002 Volvo S60

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When driving and pressing steadily on the gas just cruising the car will cut in and out as if the fuel is not reaching the engine. It does this sporatically and at times can do it repeatedly. It seems to help to let up on the gas and then reaccelerate. But not always

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  • Anonymous Dec 03, 2008

    i had same problem on my 1999 V70 2.4T

    garage thinks its a Throttle problem.

    also i've realized when this problem occur es, black smoke comes out from exhaust

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Fuel filter or fuel pump

Posted on Oct 17, 2008

It sounds like a fuel problem as opposed to an electrical fault. Start with the easiest fixes first ..
The next time the car comes to a grinding halt quickly remove the petrol filler cap and listen for air rushing into the tank. If you can hear air rushing into the tank that means a vacuum has been created inside it.

There are 2 causes of a vacuum inside the petrol tank. One is that the air-valve in the filler cap is blocked (there's usually holes in the filler cap covered by a rubber type ring) and the other is that the breather tube from the tank to atmosphere becomes blocked with dirt and debris thrown up by the roadwheels. Try driving the car with the fuel cap removed or very loose so that air can easily enter the tank. If the car still comes to a halt with the same symptoms, then there isn't a vacuum being caused within the tank.

A failing fuel pump can cause the same problems. I once owned a VW that had the symptoms you describe. The in-tank fuel pump was 'on its last legs' and when replaced the car was perfect.

A blocked fuel filter can also cause the same problems.

Here in the UK the Volvo 960 is either a straight-six 2.5 litre or 3 litre engine. I would guess that Volvos in North America share a pretty much the same mechanical layout depsite model differences. A UK 960 has two fuel pumps. One is located within the fuel tank and is accessed via an inspection plate behind the rear passenger seats (estate/station wagon models). The other fuel pump sits in a bracket underneath the car alongside the fuel filter, just aft of the front passenger seat (driver seat in the US..).

My guess is that if you went to a workshop they would opt for changing the under-car mounted fuel pump. It may be cheaper to get a workshop to diagnose the problem first and then you can do the repairs/replacement.

If it's of any use to you, I've put some photos of the fuel pumps and fuel filter on my own website - www.glennsmart.btinternet.co.uk Just choose 'Volvo 960' from the drop-down menu.

Posted on Sep 17, 2008

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OBD-II Drive Cycle Stages
The OBD-II Drive Cycle is an eight-stage course, as illustrated in the
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Stage 1: Cold Start-The ECM determines the presence of a cold start
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Stage 2: Idle 2½ Minutes-Turn the air conditioning (A/C) and
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Stage 6: Accelerate-Apply ¾ throttle until reaching 60 MPH (97 KPH).
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Stage 7: Steady State Cruise-During this period, the CAT, O2S, AIR,
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OK, the gas cap and fuel filter things are fair W-A-Guesstimates...but you need to supply more info for any of us to help you accurately.

How were you driving when it "cut off"? Were you driving along smoothly at a fixed speed over 35mph or on the freeway at cruise? OR, were you accelerating from a stop, or pressing hard on the gas to accel hard or to go up a hill, were you turning...had the engine been running awhile(Was it fully warmed) or was this immediately after startup?

Fuel filters dont come and go. If its plugged causing loss of power, waiting 1/2 an hour or overnight wont unplug it and make it run better. The Catalytic converter could plug up and the symptoms are nearly IDENTICAL to a plugegd fuel filter in most cases. If the car cut off only under heavy load (acceleration or up a hill) then it still may be the fuel filter restricting flow. However if it cut off at idle or when coming to a stop, the odds say it isnt as they rarely plug instantly (Only if some kid dumped sugar or **** in your tank). They plug up slowly and regularly so you will 1st noticet he problem usually for days or weeks as only under acceleration, but it will usually idle FINE till it plugs completely. If it even IS a fuel problem. You REALLY REALLY need to get the trouble code that turned on the Check Engine lamp pulled for you with a scan tool. Any repair shop should be able to do that for a diagnsotic fee, or some auto parts stores still will do it for free or a fixed rental charge (like 10 dollars plus security). It may not even BE a fuel problem. It could be a crank sensor, sticking EGR, an electronic throttle problem, spark leakage...or 1000 other problems that can make it misfire, stall the engine, and cause general unhappiness and sore feet. We need to gather evidence and data to accurately direct you.

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