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Re: no power uphill
"Loss in power" usually means that the combustion chamber in your cars engine is full of carbon. That is left behind because of the unburned fuel. With that type of problem, fuel responses will be slower, poor acceleration, lower rpm, etc. You may overhaul your engine for them to clean the carbon manually, but it'll be expensive and could lead to "loose compression". That means the engine won't be as powerful or responsive as before.
The best way would be to have a carbon ridding solution injected into the engine. The solution will liquify the carbon and other build-ups, which would then restore the "power" of your car. You'll get better acceleration, higher rpm and top speed, etc. have a mechanic do it for you. It's alot cheaper and faster than having the engined overhauled.
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try the fuel filter first - fuel pumps usually either run or they don't - no intermittent sputtering - also if there is debris in the fuel tank, it will clog the fuel strainer and block the fuel supply when going uphill - so if you do change the fuel pump, clean out the tank
There are 88 model Chevy Trucks that still had a mechanical fuel pump and a carburetor, as well as being fuel injected with a electric pump in the fuel tank.
On a carbureted vehicle, that would indicate float adjustment problems in the carburetor - too little fuel, or, a plugged up filter attached to the pick-up tube in the fuel tank. There would be significant sediment in the pick-up area inside the tank based upon the age of your truck.
On a fuel injected vehicle, I would suspect that either the pump is weak, limiting the amount of fuel available under a strain, or, that the strainer in the fuel tank is somewhat plugged and that there is sediment in the containing area where it sits that shifts as you go uphill. You wouldn't notice downhill as the fuel requirement is less.
I would consider replacing the the entire fuel pump assy with a new pump filter included. Just replace the filter for the truck with a carburetor. In both, remove any sediment when you're inside the tank.
This is based upon no other problems such as a vacuum hose leak, plug wires not secured shifting as you go uphill and grounding, etc.
Your excellent description provides a very short list of possible culprits, since your vehicle's symptoms all appear during periods of higher fuel demand.
(1) fuel filter - clogged - your description is absolutely classic (especially stumbling upon uphill acceleration) for a fuel filter in need of replacement. (2) spark plug wire - one or more bad - an engine can muddle along while traveling over level terrain with one cylinder intermittently failing to fire, but try to go uphill (even the slightest grade), and the engine will skip badly and can even stall if asked to accelerate. (3) in-tank fuel strainer - clogged - same symptoms as clogged fuel filter.
The fuel strainer is a sock-like pre-filter attached to the input side of the in-tank fuel pump.
The troubleshooting section of the 1998 Honda Civic EX manual states:
Priority Action Part Type Cause 1 Inspect Throttle Position Sensor - Faulty or Incorrectly Connected Throttle Position Sensor. 2 Inspect Mass Air Flow Sensor - Damaged, Loose, or Faulty Mass Air Flow Sensor or Circuit. 3 Inspect Choke - Stuck or Improperly Functioning Choke. 4 Inspect Air Cleaner Tempature Sensor - Damaged or Faulty Air Cleaner Tempature Sensor. 5 Inspect Fuel Filter - Clogged or Dirty Fuel Filter. 6 Inspect PCV Valve - Plugged or Damaged PCV Valve. 7 Inspect Carburetor - Worn, Faulty or Damaged Carburetor. 8 Inspect Fuel Injector - Dirty or Worn Fuel Injectors. 9 Inspect Hose (PCV) - Clogged or Collapsed PCV Hoses. 10 Inspect Fuel Pump - Faulty Fuel Pump. 11 Inspect Fuel Pump - Low Fuel Pressure.
Here's a YouTube video describing hoe to replace a fuel filter on a 2000 Honda Civic (the closest I could find for your 1998).
sounds like the bearings in your fuel pump are going. These bearing are undoubtedly not replaceable without replacing the entire fuel pump.
Fix: replace fuel pump. Difficulty of fix: moderately advanced. You have to jack up car, drain the tank at the fuel tank drain
and then disconnect fuel lines (3), unbolt the (always rusty) bolts holding the tank, then go at the fuel pump replacement procedure, remembering to replace the fuel pump gasket.
If your car has a hatch in the top of the tank for fuel pump replacement (Hondas do), then use that access to get to the part - otherwise pull the gas tank and replace it that way, While you're in there, replace fuel filter(s) and strainer too (as a matter of course).
If the problem were clogged fuel filter, you'd experience loss of power going uphill, and it would not be able to made to "come back" by mashing on the gas pedal.
check fuel filter. it is starving for fuel. unless the fuel pump is bad. check filter first, then go from there. symtoms of a bad coolant sensor--poor cold idle, stalling, rich mixture retarded timing, slow idle speed, cold hesitation or stumble, poor fuel milage.
Have the exhaust back ptessure chk'd for a bad cat converter. Make sure you have fresh fuel and the ck the mass air flow densor in the intake ducting. Wash it off withCRC electrical srap. Was thorouhly but do not brush or rub the sensor or touch it. It is vrty fragile and very expensuve to replace. Do not use compressed air. It will dry on its own. Make sure your air filter is clean. Good luck, Ned