Question about 1994 Chrysler LHS

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Every time i turn the steering wheel, i here a "clunking" noise coming from my front ends. i just got the inner and outer tie rods fixed, a ball joint, and the front alignment balanced. what can it be?

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  • Anonymous Oct 23, 2008

    I have the same problem with me 96' turns out its the inner tie rod bushings. Better take care of that cuz mine is getting really bad.

  • deadkitty78 Apr 24, 2009

    I recently had an alignment and my brake pads changed, and a few weeks later I noticed that I started to have this noise occur every time I turned the wheel to the right, now it is any way I turn the wheel. Is this dangerous to drive? I dont have the money right now to fix it:(

  • Aaron Mihut May 11, 2013

    I've got the same problem on my 97 lhs clunking while steering to the right and popping when braking suddenly . Thanks you guys for the post now I know what to buy.

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Dont forget the most common strut rod(radius rod) bushings(30 bucks) just did all on mine, front wheel bearings,lower control arm with ball joints(both) and inner tie rods.and really look at sub frame for stress cracks(recall prob)

Posted on Feb 28, 2013

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Possibly CV joints, or ball joints which on LHs's are usually part of the lower control arm and they are changed together (I.E. control arm and ball joint together as an assembly). 60-70 bucks each if you choose to DIY. but do not forget to check your sway bar end links, as they can wear and make a popping noise. Also if you have never replaced your struts, look into the strut mounts. the bearings in them wear as well and are easily over looked by many "pros". This is something i will be changing on mine over the thanksgiving day weekend, since i will have about 3 days off.

The inner ball joints also have bushings that can be changed but its much easier to just change the entire joint. Not fun for a DYIer but can be done.

Posted on Nov 23, 2008

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Cv joint

Posted on Aug 08, 2008

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Procedure on replacing the inner tie rod ends:


1) Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2) Remove the front wheel/tire assembly.

3) Clean the steering rod between the steering boot and outer tie rod end lock nut with a suitable penetrating lubricant and a clean cloth or shop towel.

4) Loosen the outer tie rod end locking nut 1/8 turn.

5) Loosen the steering boot clamp(s), and slide the small clamp off the boot.

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9) Matchmark the tie rod end to the threaded shaft.

10) Remove the cotter key and castle nut from the outer tie rod end threaded spindle, and using a tie rod end removal tool, remove the tie rod from the steering knuckle.

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To install:

1) Inspect the tie rod end for looseness, and the steering rack boot and tie rod end boot for cracks deterioration or damage and replace as necessary.

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3) Apply a medium strength locking agent to the threads where the inner steering rod ball socket mounts. Use a new locking washer and a new stop washer, and install the inner tie rod onto the steering rack shaft.

4) Tighten the inner tie rod end fastener by 58 ft. lbs. (78 Nm)

5) Peen the lock washer over the nut or onto the flat surface of the steering rack shaft.

6) Apply silicone grease to the outer circumference of the inner tie rod end ball socket, and onto the groove just outside of the socket.

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It is important to get a bad tie rod end replaced as soon as possible because it can separate and cause you to lose control of your car when the wheel will suddenly turn either in or out, depending on which way you are steering when it fails. After a tie rod end is replaced, your car will need an alignment to set the adjustment correctly. If you are changing it yourself, mark how far the old one is threaded in so your alignment will be fairly close to where it was.
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