A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones). click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Good luck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
The differential cover has to be removed to drain the oil from the differential. The cluster gear pin has to be taken out to get to the C-clips that hold the axles in. Try to position the carrier assembly so the retaining bolt to the cluster gear pin is on the top near the back of the differential. Remove the retaining bolt and the pin should slide right out. Take care not to rotate the the ring gear because the cluster gears will fall out and they are a little hard to get back in. Reverse this procedure to put it all back together. I hope this is helpful. Good luck.
Oil Pan, Ranger
SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED
Engine Lifting Sling
Disconnect battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to Section 14-01.
Remove air cleaner outlet tube assembly by unclipping air cleaner clamp, loosening hose clamp at outlet tube, disconnecting intake air temperature (IAT) sensor and mass air flow (MAF) sensor connectors, and crankcase ventilation hose.
Remove oil level indicator fan shroud retaining bolts. Position shroud over fan blade.
Remove radiator support bolts. Raise and secure radiator to front core support.
Remove engine mount nuts from studs.
Unclip 42-pin connector from bracket and position it aside.
Install suitable lifting brackets to left and right exhaust manifolds. Attach Rotunda Engine Lifting Sling 014-00036 (or equivalent) to lifting brackets. With a suitable lifting device raise engine approximately 50.8 mm (2 in). Install wood blocks between engine mounts and support brackets. Remove lifting device.
Raise vehicle on hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 00-02.
Drain the oil.
Remove transmission insulator retaining nuts and install a jack stand to extension housing. Raise transmission about 25.4-101.6mm (1-4 in) to gain access for removal of oil pan.
Remove transmission inspection cover.
Remove starter motor splash shield.
Remove starter motor retaining bolts and secure starter aside.
If equipped, disconnect and remove low oil level sensor.
NOTE: Oil pan fits tightly between transmission spacer plate and oil pump pickup tube. Use care when removing pan to avoid damaging either part. Remove oil pan bolts and lower pan.
Remove oil pump retaining bolts. Lower and twist pump to allow the oil pan to lower completely. Remove the pump and pan assembly from vehicle.
Remove and discard oil pan gasket.
Clean the oil pan mating surface.
NOTE: When using silicone rubber sealer, assembly should occur within 15 minutes after sealer application. After this time, the sealer may start to set up, and its sealing effectiveness could be reduced. Apply a 4.0-6.0 mm (1/5 inch) bead of Silicone Rubber D6AZ-19562-AA or -BA (or equivalent meeting Ford specifications ESB-M4G92-A and ESE-M4G195-A) to junction of rear main bearing cap and cylinder block and to junction of front cover assembly and cylinder block. Position oil pan gasket to cylinder block and secure it with Gasket and Trim Adhesive D7AZ-19B508-B (or equivalent meeting Ford specifications ESR-M11P17-A and ESE-M2G52-A).
Install oil pump assembly and bolt. Tighten bolt to 40-55 Nm (30-40 lb-ft).
NOTE: If oil pan is replaced with a new pan you must tighten new pan to spec then loosen and retighten. Position oil pan to cylinder block and install oil pan to engine bolts. Tighten bolts to 10-14 Nm (7-10 lb-ft).
Remove jack stand and install transmission insulator retaining nuts. Tighten nuts to 85-118 Nm (63-87 lb-ft).
NOTE: When replacing low oil level sensor, use a new metal gasket with a rubber O-ring. Install low oil level sensor. Tighten sensor to 20-34 Nm (15-25 lb-ft).
Install transmission inspection cover and retaining bolts. Tighten bolts to 10-14 Nm (7-10 lb-ft).
Install starter motor and bolts. Tighten bolts to 22-28 Nm (17-20 lb-ft).
Securely install starter motor splash shield.
Install lifting device and support engine. Remove wood blocks and lower engine back into original position. Remove lifting device and Rotunda Engine Lifting Sling 014-00036 (or equivalent). Remove lifting brackets from right and left exhaust manifolds.
Remove support straps, lower radiator into position, and install radiator bolts to core support. Position fan shroud and install the retaining bolts. Tighten bolts to 6-8 Nm (52-71 lb-in).
Install engine mount nuts and tighten to 98-132 Nm (72-97 lb-ft).
Connect 42-pin connector to the bracket and install oil level indicator.
Install engine air cleaner outlet tube assembly. Connect IAT sensor, MAF sensor, and crankcase ventilation hose. Securely tighten the hose clamp.
NOTE: When battery has been disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms can occur while powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650) relearns its adaptive strategy. Vehicle may need to be driven 16 km (10 miles) or more to relearn strategy. Connect battery ground cable.
Fill crankcase with correct viscosity and amount of engine oil.
Usually not. As long as you can reach all the bolts that connect the transmission to the motor, then, no. There are usually two near the top of the bellhousing, near the floor and firewall, that are hard to reach (and hard to swing a wrench on), but (at least on the cars I have worked on) they are easier to get out than to pull the engine.
Now, if you are pulling the motor, on many cars it is easier to also pull the transmission with the motor, than to try to separate them and also support the transmission once the engine is unbolted. But the transmission is usually easier to pull by itself.
2002 Ford F-250 Windshield Wiper Motor
Removal & Installation
1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. Turn the ignition switch ON until the wiper blades are straight up, then turn the ignition switch OFF.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Remove the right-hand and left-hand windshield wiper arm and blade assemblies.
4. Remove the cowl top vent panels.
5. Detach the electrical hardness connector at the windshield wiper motor assembly.
6. Remove 3 wiper motor (module assembly) retaining bolts and remove the module assembly from the vehicle.
7. Remove the wiper linkage retaining bolt and remove the linkage from the wiper motor.
8. Remove 3 retaining nuts and remove the windshield wiper motor
9. Place the windshield wiper motor in position and install 3 retaining nuts. Tighten to 10-12 ft. lbs. (12-17 Nm).
10. Connect the wiper linkage to the windshield wiper motor and install the retaining bolt. Tighten the bolts to 14 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
11. Place the wiper motor (module assembly) in position and install 3 retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 6 ft. lbs. (9Nm).
12. Install the electrical hardness connector to the windshield wiper motor.
13. Connect the negative battery cable.
14. Allow the windshield wiper motor to cycle several times while checking for proper wiper motor operation.
15. Turn the windshield wiper motor to the OFF position to park the wiper motor in the park position.
16. Install the cowl top vent panels.
17. Install the wiper arm and blade assemblies. Install the retaining nuts and tighten to 22-29 ft. lbs. (30-40 Nm).
18. Connect the negative battery cable.
19. Check the windshield wiper motor for proper operation and the wiper arms for adjustment.
Yes, shouldn't be a problem. Remove the battery. Jack the car up 1-2 feet. You'll need to support the motor. Drain the transmission, there is a 17mm allen plug at the bottom of the housing. The filler plug is on the right end of the transmission, (17mm allen plug also) to the right of the throw out bearing housing plug, says VW on it. Remove the axleshafts. Unplug the back up switch. Remove the starter, that will also disconnect the motor/transmission mount. Disconnect the clutch cable and shifter linkage attached to the transmission. Remove the speedometer cable. Unbolt the rear transmission mount (17mm bolt going vertically down, a real long extension will help to get to that one) and bracket going to the end of the transmission at the top, 2, 17mm bolts with nuts. Remove the bracket. Remove the lower inspection sheild, 3, 11mm bolts. From the underneath side, on the other side of the motor where the transmission joins the motor, there is a 19mm bolt holding the transmission to the block, remove that, and also remove the small inpsection plate above there, 2, 10mm bolts. Unbolt the two top bellhousing bolts, and it's ready to remove, pull the transmission away from the motor 2-4 inches to clear the imput shaft from the clutch disc, you'll have to kind of turn and twist the transmission to get the transmission to clear the sub frame. Also moving the engine up or down will also help. The transmission weighs about 70 pounds.
been there done that. just cut them off and get new ones. by the time you go thru the trouble it wont be worth the headaches. I have had to drill holes in the floor of a chevy with a hole saw because the body mounts were broke off. just not worth the time to try and save a few bucks on bolts. get new ones. hope this helps. mike
Hi, I am assuming you know where starter is. If you have found bottom bolt #14 metric socket which to reach you "must" use a medium length extention and go into it right above manifold pipe to reach it. I found if you take the guard off the starter 3 small hex head screws, it is much easier to get at all bolts (2). Whats strange is the lower bolt on starter mounts from the front and the "TOP" bolt #14 has to be reached from the rear of starter. You can not see the top bolt from bottom or top, but if you use your hand and reach up aroung the back of starter you can feel it! It took 2 of us one reaching up from bottom with just #14 deep well socket (no extention) on the rachet and feeling where to place it with rachet facing up, and person over top of engine reaching down helping to align socket on bolt, then use a piece of pipe or ? From the top place pipe extension on end of rachet and bolt will easily.
break loose. Good Luck it sounds hard but is fairly easy with right tools. kasheyboy77
Remove the gearshift lever assembly from the control housing.
Cover the opening in the control housing with a cloth to prevent dirt from falling into the unit.
Raise the vehicle and support it safely.
On 2WD vehicles, matchmark the driveshaft to the rear axle flange. Position a drain pan under the tailend of the transmission. Remove the driveshaft-to-rear axle flange fasteners and pull the driveshaft rearward to disconnect it from the transmission.
Disconnect the clutch hydraulic line a the clutch housing. Plug the lines.
Disconnect the speedometer from the transfer case/extension housing.
Disconnect the starter motor, back-up lamp and, if equipped, neutral sensing switch harness connector.
Place a wood block on a service jack and position the jack under the engine oil pan.
On 4WD vehicles, remove the transfer case from the vehicle.
Remove the starter motor.
Position a transmission jack, under the transmission.
Remove the transmission-to-engine retaining bolts and washers.
Remove the nuts and bolts attaching the transmission mount and damper to the crossmember.
Remove the nuts and bolts attaching the crossmember to the frame side rails and remove the crossmember.
Lower the engine jack slightly to angle the transmission assembly. Work the clutch housing off the locating dowels and slide the clutch housing and the transmission rearward until the input shaft clears the clutch disc.
Lower the transmission jack and remove the transmission from the vehicle.
Check that the mating surfaces of the clutch housing, engine rear and dowel holes are free of burrs, dirt and paint.
Place the transmission on the transmission jack. Position the transmission under the vehicle, then raise it into position. Align the input shaft splines with the clutch disc splines and work the transmission forward into the locating dowels.
Install the transmission-to-engine retaining bolts and washers. Tighten the retaining bolts to specifications. Remove the transmission jack.
Install the starter motor. Tighten the attaching nuts.
Raise the engine and install the rear crossmember, insulator and damper and attaching nuts and bolts. Tighten and torque the bolts to specification.
On 4WD vehicles, install the transfer case.
On 2WD vehicles, insert the driveshaft into the transmission extension housing and install the center bearing attaching nuts, washers and lockwashers. Connect the driveshaft to the rear axle drive flange.
Connect the starter motor, back-up lamp and, if equipped, neutral sensing switch connectors.
Connect the hydraulic clutch line and bleed the system.
Install the speedometer cable.
Check and adjust the fluid level.
Lower the vehicle.
Install the gearshift lever assembly. Install the boot cover and bolts.
Reconnect the negative battery cable.
Check for proper shifting and operation of the transmission.