The clutch on my 01 Forester catches near the top and it feels like there's no free play. This probably isn't good for the throw-out bearing. Since it is hydraulic, is it a clutch wear problem or is there some other way to change where the clutch release point is? Thanks.

The clutch is not releasing , several things can be the cause, check the following , Throw out bearing same size,clutch driven plate not fitted back to front, clutch fork is fitted to throw out bearing housing and pivot mounting, is the slave cylinder rod the same length, has the clutch free play been adjusted, has all air been bled from the master cylinder, If cable operated has free play been adjusted. Has the new pressure plate the same throw as the old one.

Interesting problem. A bent fork is not impossible, but this would usually make the clutch not release fully. Try increasing the pedal free play, so that you can guarantee the slave cylinder is not holding the clutch slightly open. If not this, then it all has to come out again ...

Try a new cable, and make sure the funky suzuki weak pedal
is not cracked or the spline at top end is not stripped.
there are 2 parts here. not counting the shift lever that can fail.
1: the pedal actuator and cable.
2: the clutch actual.

if the clutch lever moves (at bell) 1 inch the (no play) then the clutch is bad.
see that simple test? the 1 inch?
you step on the pedal and the lever on the throw out moves 1inch.
that is all the curator does.


the cables is only good for like 100kmiles, (more if lubed)
and like to break in the center where you cant see, they fry there
and prevents you from setting up free play right.
see the problem here? if the cable is bad , you had tension on the
bell lever and the clutch slipped and burned up.
the cable is the cheapest part and the lowest labor.
why folks replace it last , is a wonder. but see that all the time.

do you understand the free play rules here. on all clutches.
(cable or lever type)
it must have free play, 1/2 inch at the pedal or 1/8" at bell lever.
if not the throwout burns up.
if not, (worse) the clutch slips.
if not the PP fingers overheat and the spring fails, (anneals)
free play.
and changes to tighter as you drive and clutch wears.
if you cant get the free play right ,its a big issue.
the #1 reason is bad CABLE. $25 and its out.

check for throwout arm adjustment also..(tighten the cable if ends are good)

The cutch pedal should have about an inch of free play before contacting the pressure plate. otherwise throw out bearing will run continuously . It wont last long. Adjust at firewall for 1 inch of free play at the top of pedal stroke.

Not necessarily. A worn clutch usually does not prevent gearchanging, it causes the clutch to slip instead.

You have instead described a failed clutch actuation system. If your clutch is cable operated then it probably needs adjustment or a new cable (they can stretch/fray over time) or if it's hydraulically operated then there is probably a leak in either the master or slave cylinder. Note that your problem can occur independently of whether the clutch is nearly new or worn out. Another, rarer, possibility is a worn or bent clutch release arm: to repair this part requires a complete clutch strip down and so it would be entirely normal and best practice to replace the remaining clutch components at the same time unless they're known to be almost brand new.

Almost all clutch fitting centres offer free clutch adjustments in the hope of finding chargeable repairs. If they claim the car needs just a new clutch then ask them why and take the car elsewhere for a second (or even a third) opinion.

just use your inteligence and pull the gearbox out ,make sure you make a clutch alignment tool with a broom handle and also make sure you push the gearbox right home on refitting and dont pull it in with two long bolys

The throw out bearing arm was on the outside of the clutch actuator arm. The throw out bearing arm should go into the clutch actuator arm with a bolt going into the clutch actuator arm through the throw out bearing arm. I used some blue locktite to make sure the bolt didn't come out again. See pic below.

That truck is getting long in the tooth, so to speak, so I am unsure if it is a linkage activated clutch or a hydraulic activated clutch. If it is a linkage clutch it sounds like the linkage needs adjustment. You need to have the linkage adjusted just right so the throw out bearing is fully off the fingers of the clutch, but not to excess or the bearing won't throw out enough to separate the engine from the drive line totally. A good rule of thumb is no more than one inch of free play at the top of the pedal. If this is not correct it will not allow the truck to go into gear and if it does you will grind the gears because the input side of the transmission is still rotating.

One good thing about a hydraulic system is that the pedal is linked to the clutch hydraulically so free play is not required but there can be no air in the system not even a bubble or the slave unit will not deliver a full stroke to the clutch fork. This will have the same affect as the linkage not being adjusted correctly. You will need to bleed the assembly and sometimes it takes a lot of bleeding to get the air out. It is a two person job. Run some brake fluid through the system by opening the bleeder on the slave cylinder attached to the transmission. Have a helper depress the clutch pedal until it touches the floorboard. Have him tell you so you can close the bleeder.Once the bleeder is closed have your helper push the clutch pedal several times pausing 5 seconds between each push. Keep an eye on the fluid resovoir for the clutch and fill as needed. Do this untill you either remove all the bubbles or the clutch feels good again. It can take a lot of time to move the air down the pipe so be prepared.

When the car is sitting idling,and the clutch is not depressed,it makes a grinding noise because the input shaft of the transmission is being forced to turn by the clutch,which is engaged,and even though the trans is in neutral,the input shaft is still turning,and this is called "neutral roll over" noise,and some of the assemblies inside the trans are freewheeling around.The noise goes away when the clutch pedal is being depressed down,because the input shaft of the transmission is no longer turning.So it does sound like an internal transmission problem.It is still possible for the throwout bearing to be bad,and it can be checked when the trans is removed from the vehicle,Remove the throwout bearing from the trans input sleeve,and press down on the bearing flange and turn it at the same time.It should feel smooth and free.If it catches or feels gravelly,then the bearing is bad and that could be your noise.Also,turn the input shaft of the trans and same thing,if it's smooth and free or if gravelly feeling......Good luck.