Question about 2007 Subaru Impreza WRX STI Limited Sedan

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Battery Drain in 4 days

Hi

My battery drains within 4 days if the car isn't driven.

I have measured the drain across the negative terminal and negative wiring at it read 0.70.

I then took out one fuse at a time until I had a reading of 0.09.

Once I removed the fuse my central locking didn't work, the interior lights didn't work and I take it the alarm and immobiliser didn't work. The car did start...

I need help!!!

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  • Anonymous Oct 24, 2008

    I have the same problem on my 2007 Impreza, but not a WRX. I have yet to measure the power draw level. I've had the radio and sound system rewired, with no impact on solving this problem. Subaru checked it out and said the battery and alternator system were performing normally. I have installed a line on to the battery terminals to more easily plug in a a trickle charger as a bandaid to the problem. I suspect the security system may be the cause. I'd appreciate any other ideas. What kind of device is used to measure the power draw level?

  • andsauter Jan 05, 2009

    i am having the same problem on my 05-sti and now i even get a no connection error when im trying to use a charger

  • batsky Jan 28, 2009

    May be a bit longer than three days, had from new april 2004 just started hapening over christmas, new battery fitted still a problem. Jump starting to get away at present.

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In my case, the problem turned out to be the after-market radio which is on the same circuit as the interior lights and clock. Once it was changed, the problem was solved.

Posted on Feb 01, 2009

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The amp spec is about is about 50-75 mA which is .05 amps with everything off. When checking parasitic draw you have to give the car about 20 mins to stabilize because some of the controllers dont completely shut off for up to 20 Mins

Posted on Jan 28, 2009

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Disconnect the negative terminal to the battery and measure the current flow (miliamps) with a voltmeter/ampmeter between the battery terminal and the the connector. Disconnect fuses until no amperage draw is measured and that will tell you where the drain is. Alternator can have bad diodes also if nothing else is found.

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Battery drains overnight


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Frequently Asked Questions

submenu.jpg How do I jump/bump start my vehicle?What is the Bottom line and Tips?How are Batteries made?How do I preform Preventive Maintenance?How do I Test a Battery?Is Vehicle's charging system OK or Large Enough?How do I install new batteries?How do I dispose of my old battery?How do I charge my battery?What causes my battery to drain overnight?Common causes of premature battery failures?How can I store batteries?What are they Myths about batteries?How can I increase the life on my battery?How long can I park my vehicle?How can I revive sulfated batteries?Why won't my engine start?

What causes my battery to drain overnight? Parasitic (or ignition key off) drain is the cumulative load produced by electrical devices, for example, emissions computers, clocks, security alarms, radio presets, etc., that operate continuously after the engine is stopped and the ignition key has been switched off. Normal parasitic loads are below 75 milliamps (.075 amps). When the parasitic load is greater than 75 milliamps (.075 amps), batteries will drain more quickly. Glove box, trunk, and under hood lights that do not automatically turn off when the door is closed or shorted diodes in alternators are the most common offenders. Cooling fans, power seat belt retractors, radios and dome lights left on, alarm systems, and electric car antennas have also caused batteries to drain overnight. Leaving your headlights on will generally discharge a fully charged car battery, with 90 minutes of Reserve Capacity (36 amp hours), within a couple of hours.

It is highly recommended, especially if you are using a sealed wet "Maintenance Free" (Ca/Ca) battery, that you allow it to thaw if frozen, fully recharge it in a well ventilated area with an external battery charger, remove the surface charge, and load tested both the battery and the charging system for latent damage from the deep discharge. You could have a damaged or bad battery. If the alternator is warm and the engine is cold, then check for a shorted diode in the alternator.

Below are some methods that are used to test the parasitic load with the engine NOT running, under hood light disconnected, all accessories switched off, and the vehicle doors closed:
  • Connect a 12-volt bulb across the positive and negative battery terminals to test the bulb and the battery. If it glows brightly, then remove the negative battery cable and connect the bulb in series between the negative battery cable terminal clamp and the negative battery terminal. If the bulb continues to glow brightly, then start removing fuses or connections to the positive battery post one-at-a-time until the offending electrical component is identified by the bulb dimming.

  • A better approach is to use a DC ammeter, for example a Fluke 175, inserted in series with the negative battery cable terminal clamp and the negative battery terminal or a clamp-on DC ammeter, like a Fluke 336 or i410 around the negative battery cable. Starting with the highest scale, determine the current load. If the load is above 75 milliamps (.075 amps) after the initial surge, then start removing fuses or connections to the positive battery post one-at-a-time until the offending electrical component is identified by the parasitic load dropping to within 75 milliamps (.075 amps).

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  5. Go to the fuse panel(s) and remove fuses, one at a time. Pull the main fuses (higher amp ratings)last. Perform the same steps for relays found in the fuse panel. Sometimes relay contacts can fail to release causing a drain. Be sure to observe the ammeter after pulling each fuse or relay.
  6. Watch for the ammeter to drop to acceptable drain. The fuse that reduces the drain is the draw. Consult the owners' manual or service manual to find what circuits are on that fuse.
  7. Check each device (circuit) on that fuse. Stop each lamp, heater, etc. to find the drain.
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  9. You can also try unhooking the big wire from your alternator. The alternator can sometimes have a shorted diode that can cause amps to flow through the alternator's power cable and through the shorted diode and into the case and through the bolts and back to the negative battery terminal. This will drain a battery in a hurry.Make sure to read the ammeter before and after unplugging your Alternator

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