I just installed a used TDI engine in a 2001 Beetle, got manual but must be a misprint on where to hook up lower hose
States to hook to upper radiator but is not the right size...I think it hooks to the smaller one to the right of the thermostat...but the hose I have left does not reach correctly...should I get a new generic hose and hook it up?
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
I WOULD CHECK BOTH RADIATOR HOSES TO MAKE SURE THEY ARE HOT. THERMOSTAT COULD BE STICKING SLIGHTLY CLOSED.CHECK COOLANT LEVEL MAKE SURE COOLANT NOT LOW.IF COOLING NOT BOILING OUT OF THE EXPANSION TANK. I WOULD HAVE CAR HOOKED UP TO A DIAGNOTIC SCANNER AND CHECK COOLANT TEMPERATURE SEE IF TEMP. OVER 230 DEGREES IF SO RADIATOR COOLING FANS NOT WORKING.COOLANT THERMO SWITCH BAD BOTH FANS SHOULD BE RUNNING AT LOW SPEED.IF ALL LOOKS GOOD YOU COULD HAVE FAULTY LOW COOLANT SENSOR IN EXPANSION TANK.MAKE SURE COOLANT IS IN THE EXPANSION TANK BECAUSE COOLANT LEVEL COULD BE LOW.ADD COOLANT IN THE EXPANSION TANK UNTIL YOU AT MAX LEVEL LINE ON THE EXPANSION TANK.DONT OVER FILL THE EXPANSION KEEP ADDING COOLANT UNTIL COOLANT LEVEL STAYS AT THE MAX LEVEL LINE ON THE EXPANSION TANK.
well its bound to make a little mess but you should have a drain plug on the radiator at the bottom towards the engine side on one of the 2 tanks (sides of radiator ) unscrew drain plug and let drain into a pail or pan ( 2 gallon ) after it drains remove lower radiator hose. use a garden hose and fill radiator and let it flush for a little, hook lower radiator hose back, tighten drain plug and fill with a 50/50 mix new antifreeze,
Check this procedure to how to replace a water pump (DIY Complexity: Moderate / Time: 3.5 hours):
Parts: 1. Water Pump
Tools: 1. Screwdriver 2. Scraper 3. 3/8 in. Drive Ratchet 4. Cooling System Pressure Tester 5. Needle Nose Pliers 6. Socket Set 7. Radiator Hook Tool
Supplies: 1. Coolant 2. Silicone Sealant
Steps: Step 1 With the engine off and cold, open the hood and locate the vehicle’s water pump. o Tip: Safety Tip:Always wear safety glasses when working on your vehicle. Wear other personal protective equipment (PPE) when necessary, for example latex gloves or safety shoes. o Tip: Before removing the radiator cap, squeeze the upper radiator hose to verify that the cooling system is not pressurized.
Step 2 Remove the radiator cap.
Step 3 Install cooling system pressure tester. Apply the pressure indicated on the radiator cap or in the owner’s manual.
Step 4 Inspect cooling system components for leaks.
Step 5 Place a drain pan under the radiator. Open drain valve or remove the lower radiator hose to drain cooling system. o Tip: Depending on the vehicle, lifting the vehicle may be required to gain access to the lower radiator hose.
Step 6 Remove the drive belts or serpentine belt.
Step 7 Remove any hoses connected to water pump.
Step 8 Unbolt water pump from engine. Remove the water pump.
Step 9 Using a gasket scraper, clean the mating surface on the engine block.
Step 10 Install new water pump and new gasket. Tighten bolts to manufacturer’s specifications. o Tip: You may want to use a light bead of silicone designed for water pumps.
Step 11 Re-install any hoses and belts that were removed.
Step 12 Re-install drain plug or lower radiator hose. o Tip: Squeeze the radiator hose. If it feels soft you may want to replace the hose at this time. Always use new hose clamps.
Step 13 Refill radiator with a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water, then pressure test the cooling system and check for leaks.
Step 14 Fill overflow reservoir with same mixture.
Step 15 Leave the radiator cap off, start engine and let it idle. You should see the system“burping” bubbles of air. Refill the radiator to the top. o Tip: Most air is expelled after a couple minutes of idling. Be cautious of potentially hot fluid overflowing.
Step 16 Install radiator cap.
Step 17 Road test vehicle, keep an eye on the engine temp gauge if vehicle runs hot, there still might be an air pocket in the cooling system. The cooling system should be topped off after vehicle has fully cooled down.
Drain the coolant and pick up a new y connector. Install the new connector by loosening the clamps and pulling it from the hoses. Replace the connector and clamp the hoses down. Fill with coolant, start engine, check for leaks.
I have been having a similar problem (2001 1.8-TDI Beetle). The rattling sounds almost like wind buffeting the car/whistling, and increases in intensity as each gear revs higher (it gets quieter after a shift, and then builds again). at its loudest (before a shift), there's an additional rattle similar to tin cans in a paper bag being shaken (it's faint, but it's there). I just had the oil changed and the car looked over... not sure what could be the problem, but would like to have even a vague idea before I take it in. Any thoughts? Thanks!