Question about 2005 Dodge Stratus

2 Answers

Timing belt broke, had mechanic fix, replaced timing belt, head gasket, valve cover gasket, head bolts, thermostat, cam sensor, crank sensor, and air condensor. Now my check engine light won't go off, and i am blowing a fuse to the fan and i am over heating, what could be wrong. had no issues with the car running until belt broke.

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2 Answers

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  • 334 Answers

Humm sounds like your mec, messed up and pinched a wire,

Posted on Apr 11, 2011

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  • Dodge Master
  • 1,051 Answers

Sounds like your mechanic messed up somewhere. I'd take the car back and demand he fix it.

Posted on Apr 11, 2011

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

How to fix timimg belt


Required tools:
13mm open end wrench 10mm shallow and deep socket 8mm socket long flat-head screwdriver 17mm deep socket T50 torx socket 1/4", 3/8ths and 1/2" ratchets and extensions E10 inverted torx sockets 6mm allen wrench 15mm open end wrench 7mm socket 12mm open end wrench 14mm socket 12mm socket 8mm, 9mm and 10mm allen head sockets 19mm socket pry-bar needle nose pliers
If you are doing this because your timing belt broke you will also need to buy a complete cylinder head, head gasket set, and both idler pulleys. ALL DAEWOO MODELS WILL BREAK THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS.
Start by removing the air cleaner assembly from the throttle body, remove the air filter and housing jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel, remove the plastic shielding in front of the accessory drive belt assembly, remove the accessory drive belt, place a jack with a block of wood on top underneath the engine oil pan remove the front engine mount, remove the crank shaft pulley ( the 4 allen head bolts only not the 17mm bolt in the center.) remove the metal plate behind the engine mount bracket on the engine, remove the plastic timing belt cover 3 clips on top 2 10mm bolts on bottom. Rotate the engine until the #1 cyl. is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke or line up the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the inner timing belt cover ( notch in cover with notch in pulley) on the camshaft pulleys -- ( intake cam line up the line on the pulley with the line on the inner cover)( exhaust cam line up the arrow on the pulley with the arrow on the inner cover) loosen the 13mm bolt in the belt tensioner and using the allen wrench rotate the tab until there is slack in the belt. Remove the belt. At this time I would recommend you replace the water pump, both plastic idler pulleys as they tend to overheat and lockup, and the belt tensioner. Make sure all your marks are lined up, you may need a helper to hold the Exhaust Cam in place as it tends to move during belt installation. Put the timing belt underneath the crankshaft pulley, install the belt leaving the intake cam for last and NO BELT SLACK on the right side between the crank and the exhaust cam. Once the belt is installed rotate the crankshaft over 2 revolutions and make sure is rotates freely, and your timing marks are aligned perfectly if not the engine will not run properly, tension the belt as needed. Installation is the same as removal.

Feb 27, 2011 | 2001 Daewoo Leganza

1 Answer

How to replace a broken timing belt


Daewoo has interference engines in them, so if the timing belt broke while the engine was running, you will need to replace half of the valves which were bent when the pistons crashed into them when the cams stopped turning and the crank shaft continued to turn. Minimum of $700-1000.00 (usually more). If you do it all yourself and the valve guides are not damaged, still at least $400.00 worth of parts to fix. Pull plastic air dams around bottom of engine on front and right side . Support engine with jack. Drain antifreeze from engine and radiator. remove air filter housing and serpentine belt. remove front engine mount. remove cam belt cover. remove broken cam belt and check cam tensioner bearings and idler bearing as well. They are usually bad. Then remove spark plug cover. Remove valve cover. Remove intake from head. remove coil from head. remove heat shield from exhaust manifold then remove manifold from exhaust and from head. remove water hoses and connecting assemblies from side of head and rear of head. remove Cam shaft bearing caps loosening them all evenly so as not to bend cams. remove cams. remove head bolts. remove head. remove valve hydraulic lifters, compress valve springs and remove valve retainers and dissassemble valves. Clean everything very well. Make sure head is not damaged. Remove valve guide seals. install new valve guide seals, new valves. Seat valves with valve grinding compound. clean well. instal valves in reverse order of dissasembly. Before putting head on, make sure number 1 cylinder is at top dead center position. install head using proper torque of 18 ft # in a spiral application rotation from the center outward in a clockwise direction. Then do spiral rotation again tightening bolts each one-quarter turn. Repeat the tightening process two more times only turning the bolts one-quarter turn each time. Use new head bolts. They are designed to stretch in the process of installation and are not to be re-used. Align cams to proper orientation then bolt into place. do not overtorque cam bearing cap bolts. Less than 5 ft # of torque can stretch these bolts. Snug them then tighten them 90 degrees. Then tighten them another 90 degrees (quarter turn). Snug them all then go back and tighten all of them a quater turn, then go back and tighten all of them another quarter turn. Install the cam idler and tensioner and install the cam belt. then install the intake, exhaust and all other items in reverse order of assembly. Do not turn engine over unless you are sure you have the cam belt on with the crank shaft pulley aligned at top dead center and the intake and exhauste pulley marks aligned to their proper marks with the cam belt properly tensioned. You can't be even one tooth off. This must be right before you turn the engine over! Remove spark plugs and turn engine over by hand two rotation clockwise using a wrench on the center bolt of the crank shaft pulley. Check that the timing of cams is still perfect. If not, correct, retension cam belt, double check timing positions again then rotate engine two revolutions. Check cam timing positions again. The timing should not change! The engine should turn over relatively easily. If it feels like it doesn't want to turn, don't force it. You may have the timing off and be pressing a piston against a valve. If you are at this point, then you need to remove cam belt and unbolt cam shafts to release all tension on any of the valves. return the number one cylinder to top dead center position and then reinstall the cams and cam belt. Once it is assembled and in time, then reattatch the rest of the components that were removed in dissassembly. Do this in reverse order of dissassembly. then connect battery and fill radiator fluid. Start car.

Aug 31, 2010 | Daewoo Nubira Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

At what mileage do you replace your timing belt on a 2007 Toyota Camry? When you replace this do you replace anything else at the same time to prevent fixing it more than once?


Replacement is at 60k.
Replace the following items:
Water pump, thermostat and gasket, all radiator and heater hoses,camshaft seal, crankshaft seal, oil pump sprocket seal( Right under sprocket) timing belt, two tensioners, spring(optional check its length) and valve cover gasket.
Depending on last tune up good time for wires and plugs and fuel filter.
getting TDC is easy on this bird . Hint: once you gotTDC off crank and Cam (little check hole on Cam sprocket must line up with indentation on face of Cam seal holder) Paint it white for easy installiation later.
Hint: remove harmonic balancer with a steering wheel puller use same puller for crank shaft sprocket.
Puller has two bolts that screw into both items and one center screw in type anvil . Don't even attempt to remove these with a rubber mallet or pry bar. These pulleys sit on two seperate woodruff keys.You'll be there forever. Don't forget to remove the front engine mount and place a block of wood on jack TOO LIGHTLY LIFT WEIGHT OF ENGONE OFF OF BOLTS SO YOU CAN UNSCREW THEM. Two pumps of the jack should do it.Double check all new items with old ones MAKE SURE THEY ARE IDENTICAL ESPECIALLY TENSIONERS.
PRIOR TO REMOVING TIMING BELT COVERS REMOVE CRANK SHAFT SENSOR WIRING.

Dec 28, 2009 | 2007 Toyota Camry

1 Answer

Timing belt


Required tools:
13mm open end wrench 10mm shallow and deep socket 8mm socket long flathead screwdriver 17mm deep socket T50 torx socket 1/4", 3/8ths and 1/2" ratchets and extensions E10 inverted torx sockets 6mm Allen wrench 15mm open end wrench 7mm socket 12mm open end wrench 14mm socket 12mm socket 8mm, 9mm and 10mm Allen head sockets 19mm socket pry bar needle nose pliers
If you are doing this because your timing belt broke you will also need to buy a complete cylinder head, head gasket set, and both idler pulleys. ALL DAEWOO MODELS WILL BREAK THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS.
Start by removing the air cleaner assembly from the throttle body, remove the air filter and housing jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel, remove the plastic shielding in front of the accessory drive belt assembly, remove the accessory drive belt, place a jack with a block of wood on top underneath the engine oil pan remove the front engine mount, remove the crank shaft pulley ( the 4 Allen head bolts only not the 17mm bolt in the center.) remove the metal plate behind the engine mount bracket on the engine, remove the plastic timing belt cover 3 clips on top 2 10mm bolts on bottom. Rotate the engine until the #1 cyl. is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke or line up the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the inner timing belt cover ( notch in cover with notch in pulley) on the camshaft pulleys -- ( intake cam line up the line on the pulley with the line on the inner cover)( exhaust cam line up the arrow on the pulley with the arrow on the inner cover) loosen the 13mm bolt in the belt tensioner and using the Allen wrench rotate the tab until there is slack in the belt. Remove the belt. At this time I would recommend you replace the water pump, both plastic idler pulleys as they tend to overheat and lockup, and the belt tensioner. Make sure all your marks are lined up, you may need a helper to hold the Exhaust Cam in place as it tends to move during belt installation. Put the timing belt underneath the crankshaft pulley, install the belt leaving the intake cam for last and NO BELT SLACK on the right side between the crank and the exhaust cam. Once the belt is installed rotate the crankshaft over 2 revolutions and make sure is rotates freely, and your timing marks are aligned perfectly if not the engine will not run properly, tension the belt as needed. Installation is the same as removal.

To clarify, on the DOHC engine, the intake cam gear has a line on it, and the exhaust cam gear has an arrow on it. These should be lined up with the corresponding line and arrow on the VALVE COVER, pointing straight up. I just went through this process over the weekend, and spent quite a bit of time looking for these marking as I had removed the valve cover. Once I found them, it was plain and simple.
In addition, be sure to not over tighten the belt when reinstalling. The tensioner has markings on it for "old" and "new". DO NOT adjust past "new", as the car will sound like a jet engine, and the belt will not last for very long.
One more item that you may as well replace while you are in there is the cam position sensor if you have not already, as there have been issues with them, and the timing housing has to be opened to get to it

Nov 30, 2009 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to change head gasket?on gas v6. ISUZU RODEO Vin #452CG58V554341786


This is the same for many years. I will send this in 2 post it is to long. Hope this helps you. From the '00 Rodeo workshop manual:

Cylinder Head Assembly
Removal
1. Disconnect battery ground cable.
2. Disconnect connector of intake air temperature
sensor from intake air duct.
3. Remove PCV hose from air intake duct.
4. Remove nut from air intake duct bracket and loosen
hose clamp on throttle body. Remove air intake duct
assembly with air cleaner cover.
5. Remove intake air duct bracket from cylinder head.
6. Drain engine coolant.
7. Move drive belt tensioner to loose side using wrench
then remove drive belt.
033RW001
8. Remove radiator upper hose from engine side.
9. Remove four nuts of exhaust front pipe.
10. Remove three bolts from generator bracket then
remove the generator with brackets.
065RW025
11. Disconnect crankshaft angle sensor connector.
12. Disconnect knock sensor connector.
13. Remove heater hose from adapter side.
14. Remove heater hose from water pipe side.
15. Remove water hose between water pipe and throttle
body.
16. Remove fuel pipe joint eye bolts from fuel rail
assembly and remove fuel pipe bracket with electric
ground cable.
042RW001
17. Disconnect connector for evaporation valve.
18. Remove canister hose.
19. Remove fixing nut of intake manifold stay from
cylinder block side.
025RW002
20. Remove two bolts from intake manifold for water pipe
support and remove cylinder head assembly.
21. Remove engine harness cover and disconnect three
connectors from chassis harness on left rear side
engine compartment.
22. Disconnect connector for power steering pump
pressure switch.
23. Remove four bolts and remove crankshaft pulley.
ENGINE MECHANICAL (X22SE 2.2L) 6A–23
020RW014
24. Remove two bolts and nut then remove timing belt
front cover.
25. Remove ventilation hose from cylinder block side and
from cylinder head side.
26. Remove two bolts, ignition cable cover and remove
ignition cables from spark plug.
27. Disconnect camshaft angle sensor connector.
28. Remove ten bolts and remove cylinder head cover.
29. Remove fixing bolt of timing belt tensioner then
remove timing belt tensioner.
020RW010
30. Remove timing belt.
CAUTION:
 Do not bend or twist belt, otherwise its core could
be damaged. The belt should not be bent at a
radius less than 30 mm.
 Timing belt drive gear counterhold with J–42620.
 Do not allow oil or other chemical substances to
come in contact with the belt. They will shorten
the life.
 Do not attempt to pry or stretch the belt with a
screw driver or any other tool during installation.
 Store timing belt in cool and dark place. Never
expose the belt direct sunlight or heat.
31. Remove two idle pulleys, the left side with idle pulley
bracket.
32. Remove two bolts and stud bolt and remove timing
belt rear cover.
33. Remove camshaft angle sensor
34. Disconnect engine oil pressure switch connector.
050RW005
35. Remove camshaft assembly exhaust side.
36. Use J–42623 to remove ten cylinder head fixing bolts
012RW007
6A–24 ENGINE MECHANICAL (X22SE 2.2L)
Installation
1. Put cylinder head gasket on the cylinder block.
012RW011
2. Install the cylinder head assembly, tighten cylinder
head bolts by four steps tightening method in the
following sequence to the specified torque.(use
J–42623)
Torque: 25 N·m (18 lb ft) + 90 + 90 + 90
012RW006
3. Install camshaft assembly exhaust side and tighten
camshaft bracket bolts in the sequence to the
specified torque.
Torque: 8 N·m (5.9 lb ft)
015RW014
4. Connect engine oil pressure switch connector.
5. Install camshaft angle sensor.
6. Install the timing belt rear cover and tighten three
bolts to the specified torque.
Torque
M6 bolt: 6 N·m (4.4 lb ft)
M8 bolt: 8 N·m (5.8 lb ft)
020RW012
7. Install left side idle pulley with idle pulley bracket,
tighten to the specified torque and install right side
idle pulley and tighten to the specified torque.
Torque: 25 N·m (18 lb ft)
ENGINE MECHANICAL (X22SE 2.2L) 6A–25
020RW016

Oct 09, 2009 | Isuzu Rodeo Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

Timing Belt Tensioner bolt broken off.


You may have a serious problem (timing belt tensioner). This tensioner keeps the belt 'taut' so it won't jump time. Daewoo engines are 'interferrence' engines (this means if the valve timing is 'off' (out of syncronization) you can damage/bend the valves in the head -- valve timing (timing belt ensures this). The solution is to take the vehicle into the shop and have it diagnosed to be sure/to know if any damage has occured -- if none, replace the tensioner... it's pretty simple to do, if you have the service manual.

May 26, 2009 | 2000 Daewoo Nubira

1 Answer

Timing belt replace daewoo 1.5 1995


follow this procedure.
Required tools:
13mm open end wrench 10mm shallow and deep socket 8mm socket long flathead screwdriver 17mm deep socket T50 torx socket 1/4", 3/8ths and 1/2" ratchets and extensions E10 inverted torx sockets 6mm Allen wrench 15mm open end wrench 7mm socket 12mm open end wrench 14mm socket 12mm socket 8mm, 9mm and 10mm Allen head sockets 19mm socket pry bar needle nose pliers
If you are doing this because your timing belt broke you will also need to buy a complete cylinder head, head gasket set, and both idler pulleys. ALL DAEWOO MODELS WILL BREAK THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS.
Start by removing the air cleaner assembly from the throttle body, remove the air filter and housing jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel, remove the plastic shielding in front of the accessory drive belt assembly, remove the accessory drive belt, place a jack with a block of wood on top underneath the engine oil pan remove the front engine mount, remove the crank shaft pulley ( the 4 Allen head bolts only not the 17mm bolt in the center.) remove the metal plate behind the engine mount bracket on the engine, remove the plastic timing belt cover 3 clips on top 2 10mm bolts on bottom. Rotate the engine until the #1 cyl. is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke or line up the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the inner timing belt cover ( notch in cover with notch in pulley) on the camshaft pulleys -- ( intake cam line up the line on the pulley with the line on the inner cover)( exhaust cam line up the arrow on the pulley with the arrow on the inner cover) loosen the 13mm bolt in the belt tensioner and using the Allen wrench rotate the tab until there is slack in the belt. Remove the belt. At this time I would recommend you replace the water pump, both plastic idler pulleys as they tend to overheat and lockup, and the belt tensioner. Make sure all your marks are lined up, you may need a helper to hold the Exhaust Cam in place as it tends to move during belt installation. Put the timing belt underneath the crankshaft pulley, install the belt leaving the intake cam for last and NO BELT SLACK on the right side between the crank and the exhaust cam. Once the belt is installed rotate the crankshaft over 2 revolutions and make sure is rotates freely, and your timing marks are aligned perfectly if not the engine will not run properly, tension the belt as needed. Installation is the same as removal.

To clarify, on the DOHC engine, the intake cam gear has a line on it, and the exhaust cam gear has an arrow on it. These should be lined up with the corresponding line and arrow on the VALVE COVER, pointing straight up. I just went through this process over the weekend, and spent quite a bit of time looking for these marking as I had removed the valve cover. Once I found them, it was plain and simple.
In addition, be sure to not over tighten the belt when reinstalling. The tensioner has markings on it for "old" and "new". DO NOT adjust past "new", as the car will sound like a jet engine, and the belt will not last for very long.
One more item that you may as well replace while you are in there is the cam position sensor if you have not already, as there have been issues with them, and the timing housing has to be opened to get to it

Mar 14, 2009 | 1999 Daewoo Lanos

1 Answer

Cannot figure out timing marks on a 2000 daewoo nubira


Required tools:
13mm open end wrench 10mm shallow and deep socket 8mm socket long flathead screwdriver 17mm deep socket T50 torx socket 1/4", 3/8ths and 1/2" ratchets and extensions E10 inverted torx sockets 6mm Allen wrench 15mm open end wrench 7mm socket 12mm open end wrench 14mm socket 12mm socket 8mm, 9mm and 10mm Allen head sockets 19mm socket pry bar needle nose pliers
If you are doing this because your timing belt broke you will also need to buy a complete cylinder head, head gasket set, and both idler pulleys. ALL DAEWOO MODELS WILL BREAK THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS.
Start by removing the air cleaner assembly from the throttle body, remove the air filter and housing jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel, remove the plastic shielding in front of the accessory drive belt assembly, remove the accessory drive belt, place a jack with a block of wood on top underneath the engine oil pan remove the front engine mount, remove the crank shaft pulley ( the 4 Allen head bolts only not the 17mm bolt in the center.) remove the metal plate behind the engine mount bracket on the engine, remove the plastic timing belt cover 3 clips on top 2 10mm bolts on bottom. Rotate the engine until the #1 cyl. is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke or line up the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the inner timing belt cover ( notch in cover with notch in pulley) on the camshaft pulleys -- ( intake cam line up the line on the pulley with the line on the inner cover)( exhaust cam line up the arrow on the pulley with the arrow on the inner cover) loosen the 13mm bolt in the belt tensioner and using the Allen wrench rotate the tab until there is slack in the belt. Remove the belt. At this time I would recommend you replace the water pump, both plastic idler pulleys as they tend to overheat and lockup, and the belt tensioner. Make sure all your marks are lined up, you may need a helper to hold the Exhaust Cam in place as it tends to move during belt installation. Put the timing belt underneath the crankshaft pulley, install the belt leaving the intake cam for last and NO BELT SLACK on the right side between the crank and the exhaust cam. Once the belt is installed rotate the crankshaft over 2 revolutions and make sure is rotates freely, and your timing marks are aligned perfectly if not the engine will not run properly, tension the belt as needed. Installation is the same as removal.

To clarify, on the DOHC engine, the intake cam gear has a line on it, and the exhaust cam gear has an arrow on it. These should be lined up with the corresponding line and arrow on the VALVE COVER, pointing straight up. I just went through this process over the weekend, and spent quite a bit of time looking for these marking as I had removed the valve cover. Once I found them, it was plain and simple.
In addition, be sure to not over tighten the belt when reinstalling. The tensioner has markings on it for "old" and "new". DO NOT adjust past "new", as the car will sound like a jet engine, and the belt will not last for very long.
One more item that you may as well replace while you are in there is the cam position sensor if you have not already, as there have been issues with them, and the timing housing has to be opened to get to it

Mar 04, 2009 | 2002 Daewoo Nubira

2 Answers

Daewoo lanos timing belt replacement how?


Required tools:
13mm open end wrench 10mm shallow and deep socket 8mm socket long flathead screwdriver 17mm deep socket T50 torx socket 1/4", 3/8ths and 1/2" ratchets and extensions E10 inverted torx sockets 6mm Allen wrench 15mm open end wrench 7mm socket 12mm open end wrench 14mm socket 12mm socket 8mm, 9mm and 10mm Allen head sockets 19mm socket pry bar needle nose pliers
If you are doing this because your timing belt broke you will also need to buy a complete cylinder head, head gasket set, and both idler pulleys. ALL DAEWOO MODELS WILL BREAK THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS.
Start by removing the air cleaner assembly from the throttle body, remove the air filter and housing jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel, remove the plastic shielding in front of the accessory drive belt assembly, remove the accessory drive belt, place a jack with a block of wood on top underneath the engine oil pan remove the front engine mount, remove the crank shaft pulley ( the 4 Allen head bolts only not the 17mm bolt in the center.) remove the metal plate behind the engine mount bracket on the engine, remove the plastic timing belt cover 3 clips on top 2 10mm bolts on bottom. Rotate the engine until the #1 cyl. is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke or line up the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the inner timing belt cover ( notch in cover with notch in pulley) on the camshaft pulleys -- ( intake cam line up the line on the pulley with the line on the inner cover)( exhaust cam line up the arrow on the pulley with the arrow on the inner cover) loosen the 13mm bolt in the belt tensioner and using the Allen wrench rotate the tab until there is slack in the belt. Remove the belt. At this time I would recommend you replace the water pump, both plastic idler pulleys as they tend to overheat and lockup, and the belt tensioner. Make sure all your marks are lined up, you may need a helper to hold the Exhaust Cam in place as it tends to move during belt installation. Put the timing belt underneath the crankshaft pulley, install the belt leaving the intake cam for last and NO BELT SLACK on the right side between the crank and the exhaust cam. Once the belt is installed rotate the crankshaft over 2 revolutions and make sure is rotates freely, and your timing marks are aligned perfectly if not the engine will not run properly, tension the belt as needed. Installation is the same as removal.

To clarify, on the DOHC engine, the intake cam gear has a line on it, and the exhaust cam gear has an arrow on it. These should be lined up with the corresponding line and arrow on the VALVE COVER, pointing straight up. I just went through this process over the weekend, and spent quite a bit of time looking for these marking as I had removed the valve cover. Once I found them, it was plain and simple.
In addition, be sure to not over tighten the belt when reinstalling. The tensioner has markings on it for "old" and "new". DO NOT adjust past "new", as the car will sound like a jet engine, and the belt will not last for very long.
One more item that you may as well replace while you are in there is the cam position sensor if you have not already, as there have been issues with them, and the timing housing has to be opened to get to it

Dec 16, 2008 | 2000 Daewoo Lanos

1 Answer

Help me with how to replace a head gasket and starter


Replacing a head gasket is not a DIY job, unless the person has plenty of experience, knowledge, and the proper tools. The fact that a person would even ask, "How to replace a head gasket", would indicate to some that they should not trying to do that repair.

To replace a head gasket you must remove the intake manifold, exhaust manifold, valve train, and then the head. This is very involved and requires disconnecting lots of sensors and the ignition system. The head must then be checked to see if it is warped, or cracked, and repaired if necessary. You must then know how to put all this back together and torque all the bolts in the proper sequence. This takes training and skill which the average shade tree mechanic does not have.

There is a difference between say a over head cam (OHC) engine and a internal cam engine. And then if it is a V6 or V8 then both head gaskets must be replaced even if only one blew. And last but not least, you have to find out if there is other engine damage and what caused it to blow the gasket in the first place. Definitely not for an amateur.
The best answer to this question: Take it to a professional.

The second-best answer: Get a repair manual and follow directions. A repair manual does not provide the training necessary to do this repair correctly, and not near enough information, but it can provide more info than can be written out in an answer like this.
Below is the best answer we can provide in this format.

* Make sure you have a torque wrench and the correct torque specs for your vehicle

Parts
Exhaust flange nuts and bolts
Head Gasket (preferably OEM)
Ten head bolts
Two valve cover end seals
Tube of RTV silicone

Disassembly
1. Disconnect the battery negative terminal
2. Drain the cooling system
3. Raise the front of the vehicle and support it with jack stands .
4. Remove the two 13mm exhaust bolts holding the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold, lower the vehicle
5. Remove the air cleaner assembly
6. Remove the upper radiator hose
7. Loosen the 13mm nut holding the dipstick tube bracket to the thermostat housing and remove the coil (if it is attached to the thermostat housing) and unplug the coolant temperature sensor
8. Remove the spark plug wires from the plugs, remove the distributor water shield and the distributor cap (this step is so you don't damage the distributor cap).
9. Remove the two uppermost 15mm-head bolts from the top of the a/c , alternator bracket where it attaches to the head and unplug the single wire temperature sending unit
10. Remove the upper half of the timing belt cover
11. Remove the valve cover
12. Disconnect the wiring harness connector that is just to the right of the throttle body
13. Disconnect the throttle cables from the throttle body and remove the two 10mm head bolts holding the bracket
14. Disconnect the vacuum lines from the throttle body
15. Disconnect the fuel lines - NOTE : The fuel lines may be under pressure , use extreme care when removing them
16. Disconnect the throttle position sensor connector and the EGR valve connector (if equipped)
17. Carefully lift up the throttle body wiring harness , the fuel lines , and the vacuum lines together and use a bungee cord to hold them out of the way
18. Remove the ground strap that is attached to the intake manifold from the fire wall
19. Remove the 15mm-head bolt holding the battery ground cable to the engine
20. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the power brake booster and the heater hose from the intake manifold left side
21. Use two plastic tie straps to secure the timing belt to the camshaft pulley and remove the pulley . Hold upward tension on the pulley and secure it with a bungee cord to the right hood hinge - NOTE: be sure to hold the upward tension with the bungee cord so the timing belt doesn't jump a tooth on the lower pulleys
22. Remove the head bolts and lift the head off the engine block . (I suggest having an assistant help to lift off the head) With the head removed , carefully check the head casting for signs of cracks. Also use a straight edge to check the head casting for warpage (maximum allowable warpage is .00
23. Clean all the head gasket mating surfaces and wipe clean with a little brake cleaner on a rag. Use a round plastic bristled brush to clean out the head bolt holes in the engine block and blow them out with compressed air .

Reassembly
1. After the gasket surfaces are prepared, set the new head gasket in place and CAREFULLY place the head into position, take extreme care not to place the head on the head gasket until it is in the proper position.
2. With the head in place, install the head bolts. You will need to tighten the head bolts in a circular pattern starting from the center and working your way out. I recommend hand tightening all the bolts before beginning the torque sequence. Head bolt torque: For older style 10mm head bolts : 35 - 45 - 45 - and a 1/4 turn; For newer style 11mm head bolts : 45 - 65 - 65 - and a 1/4 turn
3. Use the two rubber valve cover end seals and a bead of RTV silicone to reseal the valve cover.
4. Do Not let the silicone skin-over before setting the valve cover into place and tightening the bolts, also be sure that both mating surfaces of the valve cover are clean and oil free .
5. After the head is reassembled you will need to reset the base timing to specs. You will also want to double check the timing belt position . Use a variable timing light and set the timing mark on zero degrees . Save the setting on the timing light and shine it through the inspection hole in the top of the upper timing belt cover . If the belt timing is correct , you will see the oblong hole in the camshaft sprocket centered in the inspection hole .


Hope my info solves your problem,
Thanx for using fixya......

Oct 02, 2008 | 1998 Saturn SL

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