Question about Chevrolet Malibu
Have you tried disconnecting negative battery terminal for minute or so? Helped on my 2003 malibu once
Posted on Apr 15, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
you should be able to fix it look for a can near the fuel tank that has vacuum hoses coming out of it and you should be able to just buy the bad solenoid
Posted on Nov 03, 2008
Change the evap vent solenoid canister located near the master cylinder on the right side of the engine or your hoses may be cracked. Good luck!
Posted on Mar 12, 2009
You will need to remove the right front wheel & wheel well liner. The canister purge valve is behind the cover. It should have two tube going into the bottom and one on the side near the top.
You can fix it!
If this helps you out please rate me!
Posted on Mar 19, 2009
A leak in the EVAP system can be a pain to resolve so be methodical. Start with the junction of the tube from the purge valve to the inlet manifold plenum. Disconnect this tube and block off the exposed port on the manifold. A great way for blocking off tubes and ports is to cut off the fingers of a rubber washing up glove and elastic bands to secure them over the exposed ends.
First let us recap on the system. The
EVAP system passively stores fuel vapour from the fuel tank in a charcoal filled
canister. The canister can be located on the fender or bulkhead. When the engine is running
above idle speed the ECU opens a purge valve connecting a pipe to the
throttle body. A corresponding vent valve allows the
ingress of air into the canister and this encourages fuel vapour to be drawn
out of the canister through the purge valve to the throttle air intake
mixture and thereafter to be burnt. The opening of the
purge valve cycles with engine speed.
The purge valve should be closed during idle. A faulty EVAP system manifest itself as erratic idling as it allows un-metered air into the system and compromises the inlet manifold vacuum. The blocking of the ports as initially suggested above should at least cause any erratic idling to be resolved.
The EVAP system is not critical to engine performance, it is an emission control device, so the car may be run without issue until the fault is found. Look at the fuel cap, ensure that the rubber seal is intact. To make doubly sure give it a smear of grease. Next look at the disconnected 'purge valve to throttle' tube. Inspect it thoroughly for cracks, be quite rough and twist it around to get a good look. Now locate the purge valve. If it is electrically operated simply check for voltage continuity across its connector pins. An open circuit indicates a burnt out solenoid winding. Check the connection to the canister. Check the vent valve connections, and again check its electrical continuity. Check the tank to canister tubing and any connections.
If you find no leaks you may need to take it to a garage that can do a smoke test on the system - this highlights the leaks as wisps of smoke appear where the leaks occur.
Posted on Dec 01, 2010
SOURCE: check engine light just cam
The diagnostic code that relates to those causes are all from the emissions system and won't necessarily effect your vehicle performance, reliability, or it may still well be able to pass an emissions test.
The most likely of causes would be any rubber fittings, plastic or rubber hoses that have come loose or cracked over time. It is an easy and inexpensive replacement for any of those issues. The diagram for the vacuum hose routing can be found on a sticker placed under the hood, which includes all emissions components in the diagram.
If you cannot find any damage to the vacuum lines or fittings then I suggest having it inspected at a service center.
Keep in mind that both mileage and time limits for manufacturer warranty of emissions components extend beyond the other warranties and you still may be covered.
Posted on Feb 25, 2011
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