Question about Mitsubishi Eclipse

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I have a turbocharged 4 cylinder eclipse and it keeps stalling out when i get out of gear. On top of that the turbo gauge maxes out in 5th gear so I can't go above 50. I was wondering if the turbo is messed up or is it something else?

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It sounds like the waste gate isn't working properly. Try checking any relays and pressure switches that are involved because I don't think you have a mechanical dump system.
Its dirty work so gear up and don't panic if you snap a bolt removing a turbo thats been cooked on for god knows how long is always a daunting task.

Posted on Aug 07, 2008

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1 Answer

1987 saab 9000 turbo transmission


bad pressure plate or stuck throw out bearing.

Jun 06, 2012 | Saab 9000 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Turbo refuses to supply power when accelerating. Manual gear changing necessary to attain top (6th) gear.


The car goes in "limp home" mode:
After scanning the Engine Control Module (ECM) with a VAG or similar diagnostic tool you will find this: Fault code: P1557-Turbo Boost pressure control exceeded
1. Engine stopped and ignition switch off. Check all pneumatic connections and hoses between turbocharger actuator = pressure unit for boost-pressure control, boost-pressure control solenoid valve, vacuum reservoir, EGR control solenoid valve, intake-manifold flap solenoid valve, EGR valve with throttle - part of intake manifold. Also the vacuum connection between tandem pump and brake booster. If you find something wrong replace parts. If not go to step 2.
2. Extract the hose of the turbocharger actuator = pressure unit for boost-pressure control part of turbocharger. Instead of the original hose you must place another 1 meter long hose with the same inside diameter, and then you check to inspire yourself the air from the other one extremity of this hose. The mechanical connecting rod of the turbocharger actuator must have a smooth and whole motion. If you can do that with your mouth, then you must replace the boost-pressure control solenoid valve. If you can not reach this with your mouth, then you go to step 3.
3. This is the most difficult work. The problem is that the soot particles deposits inside the turbocharger plugging the variable nozzle geometry mechanism = adjustable vanes of the turbine. If the turbocharger actuator is not able to adjust the turbine vanes the charge air pressure increase too much and ECU (engine control unit) go in "limp mode" = engine protection software. As a result the "limp home" mode engine still running until you turn the engine off (ignition switch off) and back on when the "limp mode" is deactivated, but the fault still remain in ECU memory!
4. You must be able to extract the turbo from the engine and then to disassemble the turbocharger, clean inside adjustable vanes mechanism and refit all.

May 24, 2011 | Volkswagen Passat Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Where are the timing marks on a 1996 Mitsubishi eclipse?


If you have the 4-Cylinder Non-Turbo, or 420a engine, here is the overhaul manual for it, including the complete timing instructions: http://www.mediafire.com/?7j2zosdmnnl

If you have the 4-Cylinder Turbo, or 4G63 engine, here is the manual for it, including timing instructions: http://www.mediafire.com/?zhnttihoqye

Mar 18, 2011 | 1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse

1 Answer

Hi, vw experts, my engine light diagnosis was "turbo charger overboost" what might this mean? also, glow plug #4 cylinder circuit open. would this mean a faulty glow plug or faulty harness?...


First problem: "turbo charger overboost"
In your case the turbocharger is responsible for engine losing power.
The car goes in the "limp home" mode!!!
After scan the EDC-15P engine control unit with a VAG or KTS -BOSCH diagnosis tool you will find this: Fault code: P1557-Turbo Boost pressure control exceeded
1. Engine stopped and ignition switch off. Check all pneumatic connections and hoses between turbocharger actuator = pressure unit for boost-pressure control, boost-pressure control solenoid valve, vacuum reservoir, EGR control solenoid valve, intake-manifold flap solenoid valve, EGR valve with throttle - part of intake manifold. Also the vacuum connection between tandem pump and brake booster. If you find something wrong replace parts. If not go to step 2.
2. Extract the hose of the turbocharger actuator = pressure unit for boost-pressure control part of turbocharger. Instead of the original hose you must place another 1 meter long hose with the same inside diameter, and then you check to inspire yourself the air from the other one extremity of this hose. The mechanical connecting rod of the turbocharger actuator must have a smooth and whole motion. If you can do that with your mouth, then you must replace the boost-pressure control solenoid valve. If you can not reach this with your mouth, then you go to step 3.
3. This is the most difficult work. The problem is that the soot particles deposits inside the turbocharger plugging the variable nozzle geometry mechanism = adjustable vanes of the turbine. If the turbocharger actuator is not able to adjust the turbine vanes the charge air pressure increase too much and ECU (engine control unit) go in "limp mode" = engine protection software. As a result the "limp home" mode engine still running until you turn the engine off (ignition switch off) and back on when the "limp mode" is deactivated, but the fault still remain in ECU memory!
4. You must be able to extract the turbo from the engine and then to disassemble the turbocharger, clean inside adjustable vanes mechanism and refit all.


Second problem: "glow plug #4 cylinder circuit open"
Swap another glow plug in good condition by another cylinder, and see if the fault still occurs. If not, then this mean a faulty glow plug. If yes, then there is a bad harness.


Please do rate my response. Thanks!

Feb 17, 2011 | 2002 Volkswagen Jetta TDI

1 Answer

Need to remove the turbocharger from truck to replace oil cooler. Am unable to get it out. It is a 2003 ford 250 superduty tubo diesel 6.0 litre


1 - Remove the turbocharger intake tube
2 - Disconnect the charge air cooler inlet pipe
3 - Remove the push pins on turbo cowl
4 - Disconnect the turbo VGT solenoid
5 - Remove the oil supply tube
6 - Using the special tool, remove the oil feed tube
7 - Remove clamp from the turbo down pipe
8 - Remove the clamp from the turbo inlet
9 - Loosen the exhaust inlet pipe-to-EGR cooler clamp
10 - Loosen the RH & LH exhaust inlet pipe-to-exhaust manifold nuts
11 - Remove the rear turbocharger mounting bolt
12 - Remove the front mounting bolts
13 - Position the turbocharger and remove the turbocharger drain tube
14 - Remove the turbocharger

If you cant do it with these instructions put down your wrench and take to a dealership for a professional to work on it

Sep 03, 2010 | 2003 Ford F250 Super Duty Crew Cab

2 Answers

I have a 95 eagle talon tsi awd, when i push the hard and the boost gauge hits the top for a split second the car jerks. feels like something slips of engine loses power. also i had a stereo put in my car...


Replace your waste gate on the turbo charger. It may be weak and opening up before your at full boost, common to go bad after a few years from the heat of the turbo. Good luck and keep me posted.

Feb 16, 2010 | 1995 Eagle Talon

1 Answer

Turbocharger hose and black smoke


Blace smoke is fuel to much of it are you talking about the vaccume line thea goes from the turbo to a tee then the wast gate and a sensor under the air box thenthen up to the bottom of the air box?

Dec 11, 2008 | 1992 Mitsubishi Eclipse

1 Answer

'94 320i


Hello.

That doesn't sound right, I'd suggest getting the spoeedo checked. Even if you had the close ratio gear box which I think was fitted to the 4 cylinder engines, your speedo should be showing 160 km/h at 5000rpm in 5th.

Sep 10, 2008 | 1994 BMW 3 Series

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