Question about Ford Ranger

2 Answers

I just replaced the clutch, and put a new master and slave cylinder on there too, also put an idle air control valve and fuel filter on. i bled the master cylinder. whenever i crank it up and drive it runs fine for bout 3 miles then it starts jumping around

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  • fader91190 Apr 10, 2011

    88 ford ranger. new clutch kit installed, when you accelerate the engine seems sluggish and then it takes off and then it will jump around when you let off the accelerator

  • fader91190 Apr 10, 2011

    and no prior running problems and 67,000 miles

  • fader91190 Apr 11, 2011

    It was doing it b4 I put the fuel filter on and it's pretty much common sense on the way you put it on. The iac wasn't the problem. And the pedal feels normal

  • fader91190 Apr 11, 2011

    I just replaced the clutch in my 88 Ranger, and put a new master and slave cylinder on there too, also put an idle air control valve and fuel filter on. i bled the master cylinder. whenever i crank it up and drive it runs fine for bout 3 miles then it starts jumping around. and after that 3 miles when you accelerator the engine seems sluggish and then it takes off and then it will jump around when you let off the accelerator

  • fader91190 Apr 12, 2011

    thanks

  • fader91190 Apr 12, 2011

    Yes very

  • fader91190 Apr 12, 2011

    The tps helped alot with the acceleration problem. But when the engine warms up the rpms vary and it seems like it's bout to cut off

  • fader91190 Apr 12, 2011

    The tps helped alot with the acceleration problem. But when the engine warms up the rpms vary and it seems like it's bout to cut off

  • fader91190 Apr 13, 2011

    I checked the PCVand EVAP and they seemed fine. But there is no egr valve on my engine there's just a plate there

  • fader91190 Apr 13, 2011

    I checked the PCVand EVAP and they seemed fine. But there is no egr valve on my engine there's just a plate there

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  • Ford Master
  • 8,266 Answers

Hi, I recommend you test the throttle position sensor--it may be worn out. Procedures for test and replacement are listed below. Please let me know if you have any questions.


OPERATION See Figure 1
The Throttle Position (TP) sensor is a potentiometer that provides a signal to the PCM that is directly proportional to the throttle plate position. The TP sensor is mounted on the side of the throttle body and is connected to the throttle plate shaft. The TP sensor monitors throttle plate movement and position, and transmits an appropriate electrical signal to the PCM. These signals are used by the PCM to adjust the air/fuel mixture, spark timing and EGR operation according to engine load at idle, part throttle, or full throttle. The TPS is not adjustable.

I just replaced the clutch, - jturcotte_1520.gif

Fig. Fig. 1: The Throttle Position (TP) sensor is mounted on the throttle body


TESTING See Figure 2

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Disengage the wiring harness connector from the TP sensor.
  3. Using a Digital Volt-Ohmmeter (DVOM) set on ohmmeter function, probe the terminals, which correspond to the Brown/White and the Gray/White connector wires, on the TP sensor. Do not measure the wiring harness connector terminals, rather the terminals on the sensor itself.
  4. Slowly rotate the throttle shaft and monitor the ohmmeter for a continuous, steady change in resistance. Any sudden jumps, or irregularities (such as jumping back and forth) in resistance indicates a malfunctioning sensor.
  5. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
  6. Turn the DVOM to the voltmeter setting.


WARNING Ensuring the DVOM is on the voltmeter function is vitally important, because if you measure circuit resistance (ohmmeter function) with the battery cable connected, your DVOM will be destroyed.

  1. Detach the wiring harness connector from the PCM (located behind the lower right-hand kick panel in the passengers&rsquo compartment), then install a break-out box between the wiring harness connector and the PCM connector.
  2. Turn the ignition switch ON and using the DVOM on voltmeter function, measure the voltage between terminals 89 and 90 of the breakout box. The specification is 0.9 volts.
  3. If the voltage is outside the standard value or if it does not change smoothly, inspect the circuit wiring and/or replace the TP sensor.
jturcotte_1521.gif

Fig. Fig. 2: TP sensor wire harness connections
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Disconnect the negative battery cable. Disengage the wiring harness connector from the TP sensor.

    Remove the two TP sensor mounting screws, then pull the TP sensor out of the throttle body housing.

To install:
  1. Position the TP sensor against the throttle body housing, ensuring that the mounting screw holes are aligned. When positioning the TP sensor against the throttle body, slide the sensor straight onto the housing, ensuring the throttle shaft engages the sensor axle.
  2. Install and tighten the sensor mounting screws until snug.
  3. Attach the wiring harness connector to the sensor, then connect the negative battery cable.

Posted on Apr 11, 2011

  • 2 more comments 
  • Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte Apr 12, 2011

    Please let me know if this doesn't solve the problem or if the TPS passes the test.

  • Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte Apr 12, 2011

    OK, sorry for the delay--was out working today. Recommend you check the PCV valve and hose for clogging. If that doesn't fix it, I would check the EVAP purge valve for jamming. Sometimes charcoal gets loose from the cannister and blocks the valve open. If both those were good, then I'd check to see if the EGR valve is sticking. If you need pics or instructions for any of this, please let me know. I'm home for the night.

  • Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte Apr 13, 2011

    Sorry again--working again but got off early today. So new TPS, new IAC, purge OK, PCV OK, but poor idle/surging. Did I ask you about checking for vacuum leaks? If there is a tear in the big air hose between the throttle body and the MAF sensor, it can sometimes be intermittent, causing either jumpy airflow and/or injector pulse width. I'm assuming your MAF sensor is good, or the truck would be running a lot worse; however it might be a good idea to just spray some electric parts cleaner on the sensor wire. Don't touch the MAF sensor wire, just spray it and let it dry on it's own. Aside from these things, there isn't much else that you haven't looked at. I suppose the intake manifold gasket coud be leaking intermittently. To check that, spray carb cleaner on the gaskets with the engine running. If the engine speed changes when sprayed, there is a leak. If you think you have a leak, check it several times to verify that the change in engine speed ALWAYS coincides with spraying carb cleaner on the gaskets.

  • Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte Apr 13, 2011

    Reviewed the diagrams to see if I was missing something. The 2.3 liter should have an EGR valve, vacuum solenoid, and valve position sensor. Do you have the 2.9 liter, or what do you suppose happened to the EGR valve? Not sure how you would trick the computer if someone removed the valve.

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  • Master
  • 4,472 Answers

What is the year and model? Did it have any problems running before? Did you put a new clutch kit or just the clutch? How many miles are on the vehicle. Also what do you mean by jumping around?
Once I have more information I can try and assist you further.
Thank you,
Lee

Posted on Apr 10, 2011

  • Lee A.
    Lee A. Apr 10, 2011

    Ok, for starters are you positive you installed the fuel filter in the correct direction and not backwards. Does the clutch pedal feel normal to you? Do you have the old IAC? if it wasn't a problem before you may want to switch back and see if that is the issue. It could be a lot of things at this point, but try the easiest ones first.
    Thanks,
    Lee

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