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Re: horn not working
Usually a wire straight from the fuse box, check the fuse box for a blown fuse, if this is not the case, follow the positive wire leading to the horn back to where it hits the wiring harness, it should tie off into another system, such as the interior lighting, radio, or cigarette lighter
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The horn relay primary receives + full time and is actuated by receiving ground (-) from the horn button. Check ground continuity at the horn button (at the steering wheel) to make sure it is working first (most likely culprit). If the horn button is working, check to see if the horn relay is working (second most likely culprit). To test the horn relay, provide chassis or battery ground to the (-) primary terminal of the horn relay and see if the horn honks. If it does, that will tell you that the problem is in the wiring between the steering wheel and the relay, most likely a disconnected wire at the steering column.
The only other components in the system are the fuse for the horn circuit (if you have 12v at the horn relay, that is fine), and the horn itself. My bet is on the horn button pad itself.
Likely the relay is stuck. The horn gets 12v when you press the horn button and it energizes the relay to send power to the horn. The horn gets 12v and sends that through the horn and then to ground. There's nothing in the horn to cause it to stay on. The only other possible cause would be a horn button that is stuck in a depressed position or the wire is damaged and is grounded. Any relay you have that has the same dimensions can be used to test if the relay went bad by swapping it out and seeing if the horn blows.
my guess, its a dead horn? both dead? no actual question asked???????? the fuse is blow? in fuse box, eng. bay box.? if no power to horn, (voltmeter) we check power in and out of relay if there is one. then at the horn button wire, (air bags can kill any mech. defeat them first if heck bent to fiddly steering column parts in any why) all this info is convered in in the FSM, get one. or login to alldata dot come. and read it. here, ill look at yours. now.... a fast look. ok 2 horns, hi/lo, and 1 relay in the under hood fuse box. it should be labeled in the box, HORN the relay can not work if the fuse is blown or the horn enable line is dead. button. the button grounds (0v) the relay via wire color lt.green-blu pin a11 on relay. if the a11 is at 12v the fuse is good. if you push the horn button this A11 goes from 12v to 0v, and the relay energizes (click) and the horns both blow. if no power makes it to the horns, the relay is bad no 12v if by chance the relay output to horns go to 12v, then the horns are both dead.
it has 4 parts
and fuse power.
not counting wires.
no year stated, so no answer
is this a way question, a how to , or who can , DIY or????
you made a statement, do ask a real question.
if it was mine,
1: check the horn fuse.
2: Id fix it, Id, check voltage at the horn while person 2 hit the button.
12v bad horn (or its ground is rusty)
0v bad relay or button.
if the relay has 12v in , and 0v out its bad.
the horn circuit is that theres 12v fed to one side of horn and works when its return is grounded at the horn button,,the feed to thec/liter may also be the feed to the horn,,the horn staying on may be the button return spring has calapsed and the contacts not seperating
Visually inspect horn make sure its not corroded and wiring is on it tight. Then use a voltmeter and when horn button is depressed 12v should register on the meter. If 12v are there and horn doesn't sound the horn is defective. If 12v does not make it there then its either the relay or clock spring (located inside steering wheel) most likely. A visual inspection should pretty much do it with the clock spring (corrosion ,wear of contacts). Relay must have B+ going to it at all times and coming out only when horn is depressed. good luck
Diagram should be on the inside of the fuse box or relay cluster lid/cover. If Test light has 1 wire and a sharp tip? Yes, but only if you push the horn button too ;-)
My guess is that the horn lost its ground, but you can check this with the light. The horn only beeps when both GROUND and Pos 12v are present. The horn button gives the relay 12v to close, and the relay gives the horn 12v to operate. The ground is always connected.
Connect tester clipwire to 12v source (battery, headlight (has to be on) and touch its tip to metal of car. Does it light? Good. the tester is working and the 12v is a good source.
Touch one of the 2 horn connection or wires (poke it thru the plastic - why tip is sharp). Does it light? Touch the other, does it?
If both light, (1 will be brighter) we can assume the horn coil is good and it is getting a good ground and I was wrong (it happens... but not often). The side that is BRIGHTER is the ground wire side.
Now have someone mash the horn button. Do you hear a tiny click? That is the horn relay. If not, look for the horn relay fuse and replace it. If you DID hear the click, the relay coil is good and is trying to switch 12v to drive the horn.
Now is time to locate and replace the horn fuse or the relay may have bad contacts. Look at the other relay part numbers in the cluster and see if there is a match for the horn one. Swap it out and try the horn.
Hope this all helps. To 'test' the horn, touch the dim side again anf listen for a scratching sound. That is the 12v going thru the tiny bulb in the tester (a resistance) and trying to drive the horn.
If you hear a click the power is working the relay. If no click under dash, possibly bad fuse or relay. If you hear relay, test horn. Unplug horn and run a 12V jumper to see if it beeps. If it doesn't, try to redo the ground and then test. Then if that doesn't work, replace horn.