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Replaced solenoid and battery terminals. No power to ignition side of solenoid with key on. Power to battery side. No headlights, horn or domelights with key off, no dash lights. Battery checked and ok

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Sounds as if you have a bad power systems relay. On '91 and newer vehicles there is a rectangular box located on one of the fender wells that houses relays and soleniods for various vehicle component operations. Caution, this box is water tight FOR a reason.

Posted on Apr 10, 2011

Testimonial: "Nailbender53 is on the right track hopefully it helps"

  • Anonymous Apr 11, 2011

    There are 2 housings for relays, the Master Power Unit and a smaller one that I believe is for the trailer connector. In the main box there are 4 relays any idea with one it is

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2 Answers

Turns over but won't start


I would start checking fuses for power. It could be a battery cable issue or something in the fuse box. The dash lights would not be powered thru the key switch, but the other stuff would be. Provided the key switch is getting power for accessories.

Feb 23, 2014 | Dodge Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1989 f250 wont start dead silence when i turn key on replaced ignition switch, starter & solenoid, truck will start if i jump points on solenoid


Two parts to this circuit, the low current: power supply to the ignition switch which then passes to the small wire on the solenoid when you turn the key to the start position, at this point there should be an audible "click" from the solenoid. Don't forget the solenoid needs an earth to operate, so check the earth path too, usually through its attachment point(s) Check that the ignition switch has power going to it. Check that the power is transferred to the start wire when the key is turned. Check the power is arriving at the solenoid, small wire. Check the solenoid has a good earth. Does the solenoid "click" when you try to start? Yes to all this? Then the low current side is good. The high current side: a permanent live (hot) to one side of the solenoid. When the key is turned to the start position and so long as the solenoid "clicks" then the power to the permanently live terminal is transferred to the other high current terminal. If it is not, then the terminals inside the solenoid are burned/dirty/high resistance. You might be able to dismantle, else change the solenoid. If the power does transfer, but the starter motor does not turn, then suspect the starter motor itself. Check there is a good earth for the starter motor, the heavy duty cable to the engine is in good condition, terminals clean and tight etc. If all good, then the starter motor is most likely U/S.

Sep 13, 2013 | 2004 Ford E250

1 Answer

97 civic has power going to and from fuse box. Still no headlights,no dome light, no horn, no ignition, no power at all. Replaced battery and all relevant fuses look intact.


You have a 40amp fuse powering the key switch. The headlights are on a different 30amp fuse.
Do you have power on both fuses ?

Jul 05, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I get no ignition but have good battery power


You probably have a loose wire from banging around changing that light!! jk. So to figure out turn key on and leave on get under the hood and see if you have any voltage to the ignition solenoid. Put a test light on the terminal and touch the other side to the frame or negative post of battery. If no power there follow that wire to the Pos post of battery and clean it or tighten it. If you have power there at the solenoid take a screw driver and jump it from the battery terminal side to the other terminal which is the cable that supplies the power to your starter...that should crank the starter ...but if doesn't get underneath and tighten or clean that cable where it hooks to the starter. That should work unless the started is killed ... and needs replaced.. Very unlikely. Last thing to check if none of that is going well is make sure that somewhere you have a good clean connection between the negative pole of your battery and the frame or metal on motor of the vehicle. The lights might be working only because they have their own grounding wire...where as the starter only has a positive cable and will only work it the negative (ground) is well attached to the body/motor (METAL) of the vehicle.

Jun 22, 2012 | Volkswagen Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2000 Honda Odyssey. The passenger side headlamp burned out and I replaced it, no issues two days ago. Battery was cranking slowly and terminals were corroded so I cleaned them. Last night in 15 degree...


The driver's Multiplex Control System is a small computer that controls (among many other things) the dash lights brightness, ignition key interlock, shift interlock, and has a tie in to the brake light system and horn relay. It may be that this small computer malfunctioned and started the whole problem chain.

However, I note from the factory shop manual that if polarity is reversed on the shift interlock--it can be damaged. Reverse polarity will ruin the diode inside the shift interlock. This could have happened when you jumped the battery--a brief period of getting the cables and terminals mixed up could have done it.

Checking the shift lock solenoid can be done by removing the steering column upper cover. Disconnect the shift lock solenoid connector (2 terminals). Using long jumper wires, apply battery voltage to terminal 1 (yellow wire side) of the solenoid and ground terminal 2 (green wire side). Check that the shift lever can now be moved out of Park. NOTE: applying voltage in the opposite direction of that above will damage the diode in the solenoid and will probably ruin it. Remove your jumpers and shift back to park and check that the solenoid locks. If the solenoid does not work properly, it will need to be replaced. This involves removing the end of the transmission shift cable and is a complex job. Remember, no power to the solenoid equals a locked solenoid--it takes power to unlock it.

The Multiplex Control Unit has a self diagnostic feature which checks the computer itself and inputs to the computer. The computer check is called mode 1 and the input test is mode 2. The diagnostic trouble codes are outputted to the ignition key light and beeper.

To test, first confirm that all fuses are good, especially fuse 9 (10A) in the driver's under dash fuse box (left kick panel) and fuse 13 (7.5A) in the passenger's under dash fuse box (right kick panel). Then use a jumper wire (a wire with small alligator clips on each end works best) to jump the two leads of the multiplex test connector. (This is a light green 2 terminal connector dangling from the same wire bundle as the brake pedal switch connector.) Buckle the driver's seat belt (avoids nuisance beeps). Now turn the ignition switch to on. After about 5 seconds, the ignition key light should come on and the beeper should beep for 2 seconds then stop for .2 sec. then beep once for .2 seconds. This indicates that the system is in diagnostic mode 1.

If no diagnostic trouble codes (DTC's) are present, the key light and beeper will not blink/beep again. If there are codes: about one second after entering mode 1, the key light and beeper will indicate the DTC and repeat it every 3 seconds. If there are more than one, the system will indicate them in ascending order. The codes will be a light flash and beep so you will have to count the flashes/beeps to keep track. The codes range from 1 to 6. Code 3 (three flashes/beeps) indicates a problem with the multiplex control unit itself. Write back here for other codes or for questions about mode 2.

Jan 23, 2011 | 2000 Honda Odyssey

2 Answers

Starter clicks but doesn't fire engine. Just put in a new battery. Occaisionally, on the 5th or 6th try it starts.


Yes. the starter is malfunctioning at this time. it could also eb a ignition issue as well. here is a quick starter test procedure that will help you troubleshoot a bit.


Step 1 Check for 12 volts on the large wire attached to the top terminal on the starter relay. It should have battery voltage. If not, the battery, terminals or wire is bad.

Step 2 Check the small wire on the solenoid for power when the key is in the start position. Remove the small wire on the solenoid and have a helper hold the key in the start position. Check the wire for battery voltage. If there is voltage, the starter is bad. If there is no voltage, replace the wire.

Step 3 Check the fuse in the fuse box under the hood on the left fender well. If it is good, check the relay by pulling it out and checking for power at one terminal with the key off. If there is no power, the problem is in the fuse box between the fuse and the relay. If there is power, have the helper hold the key in the start position once again and check for power at another terminal from the ignition key. If there is power, the relay is bad. If there is no power, the starter circuit is suspect.

Step 4 Check to see if there is power to the neutral safety switch if there is no power at the relay. Use the voltmeter to check for power with the key in start. If there is power going in, check for power going out. If there is no power going in, the security system or ignition switch is suspect. If there is power going in and none coming out, the switch is bad. If there is power coming out, the problem is between the neutral switch and the relay.

Step 5 Remove the cover on the bottom of the steering column. Check the solid yellow wire for power when the key is in the start position. If there is no power, the ignition switch is bad.

Sep 21, 2009 | Dodge Caravan Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

HORN DIAGRAM FOR A DODGE RAM 1500 (CONNECTIONS)


Battery Constant 12v+ Positive Wire (+): Black/Orange And Red/White
Battery Constant 12v+ Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Starter Positive Wire (+): Yellow
Starter Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition Positive Wire (+): Blue (16 Gauge)
Ignition Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Second Ignition Positive Wire (+): Yellow/Red
Second Ignition Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Accessory Positive Wire (+): Blue (10 Gauge)
Accessory Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Second Accessory Positive Wire (+): Orange
Second Accessory Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Parking Light Positive Wire (+): Black/Yellow
Parking Light Positive Wire Location: At Headlight Switch
Power Door Lock Positive Wire (+): Orange/Violet
Power Door Lock Positive Wire Location: In Drivers Kick Panel, White 6-Pin
Power Door Unlock Positive Wire (+): Pink/Violet
Power Door Unlock Positive Wire Location: In Drivers Kick Panel, White 12-Pin
Door Trigger Negative Wire (-): Yellow
Door Trigger Negative Wire Location: At Headlight Switch
Domelight Supervision Wire: Use Door Trigger (Requires Relay)
Domelight Supervision Wire Location: N/A
Horn Negative Wire (-): Black/Red
Horn Negative Wire Location: At Steering Column Harness
Tachometer Wire Negative Wire (-): Gray
Tachometer Wire Negative Wire Location: At PCM, Connector 1, Pin A7. The PCM (powertrain control module) is located on the firewall next to the wiper motor.
Brake Light Positive Wire (+): White/Tan
Brake Light Positive Wire Location: At Switch Above Brake Pedal
Factory Alarm Disarm Wire (-): Black/Orange (To disarm requires a (-) negative through a 1565 ohm resistor and an extra relay to connect.)
Factory Alarm Disarm Wire Location: In Drivers Kick Panel, White 12 Pin Plug
Factory Anti-Theft System: N/A
Factory Anti-Theft System Location: N/A

Aug 22, 2009 | 1998 Dodge Ram 3500 2WD

1 Answer

No power or very little juice to the car replaced battery no help


Yes, you have a bad starter solenoid, underneath the car wiggle the red feed to the starter wile a friend has the key in the start position, it should click or start the car.

Feb 20, 2009 | 1999 Lincoln Town Car

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