Question about 2003 Honda Element

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2004 Honda Element. All standard equipment, no auto starters or alarms. My battery will die in four days if the car is parked. It is a new battery(I have replaced batteries twice in the past year). The alternator has been tested and is working fine. There is a 210 mil amp draw thru the "back up fuse" and no draw when this fuse is removed with all others being in place. If I leave the battery disconnected for a few minutes there is a much larger instantaneousness draw too fast for my meter to register but enough to cause a spark. It than settles to the 210 mil amp reading. Like a capacitor has drained and needs to charge.

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  • wodowns Apr 09, 2011

    I am quite confident a shorted wire would not cause this problem and intelligent enough to know which part of the wire conducts and which insulates. I believe that I am drawing three times the recommended mil amp to run the computer systems supplied by this fuse in a power off condition. Why,and what causes the power surge mentioned above?

  • wodowns Apr 10, 2011

    There are no lights on and would not they be own a lighting circuit, a separate fuse not the back up?

    I will test the voltage tomorrow, then disconnect the alternator looking for a different voltage drop

  • wodowns Apr 10, 2011


    The alternator is disconnected, all relays and fuses found in the fuse box are disconnected.

    With the neg clip removed from the battery I have 12v between ground and the neg terminal of the battery indicating some kind of flow from the positive through something to ground.



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Check every interior light in the car to see if they are on, this includes all the lights like the visor vanity mirror lights, glove box etc. I suggest you come out at night and look to see if you see lights on, pull the visors down, they are the most common cause of this type of draw based on a visible spark and the 210ma draw, the next thing to disconnect is the alternator, if a diode fails it cause this type of draw as well. Here is how a draw is checked in the shop, it is not the amps but the volts that really we check and that is how our test meters work, anything over a 9 volt draw will drain the battery. in all my years as a mechanic 99% of battery draw problems I've seen are small interior lights are on, next is trunk and engine compartment light that don't shut off, next is a defective alternator Diode.

Posted on Apr 10, 2011

  • yadayada
    yadayada Apr 10, 2011

    Ok you have it all under control it seems. thanks for listing to my suggestions.

  • yadayada
    yadayada Apr 10, 2011

    This is not going to get fixed over this computer terminal. At this point you need to seek help from the dealer, there are just to many tests that require professional training and equipment. If you do have a 12 volt draw it is either light or other device that is staying on, any electronics would only use less than 9 volts and 300ma, that is from the service manual. Well we are that subject do you have the factory service manual? If not and you continue to fix this with the help of the dealer then you are really handicapping your self. There may also be factory technical bulletins on this problem. If you want access to all the factory data, manuals and bulletins you can get a yearly subscription to a site that has it all and is what shops use, of to this link


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THere may be grounded wire somewhere that drains your power. Inspect all your electrical equipment if they are not weak and are working properly. You may have to check all wires for loose connections or bad wiring that needs replacement. The key is that the conductor inside the wire should not touch the body of the car otherwise it will be grounded and may cause the said discharge. The same goes with the contacts/terminals of the sitches, relays and fuse.
If there was a change in the electrical or something was added or fixed or changed. Inspect this first.

Posted on Apr 09, 2011


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