Question about 1994 Ford Thunderbird

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1994 ford thunderbird 3.8 oil pan inframe removal

I need to check the rod and main bearings and want to this and change them in frame. Can this be done or do I have to pull the engine?
Thanks,
christopher

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PULL IT...front support cross member blocks it. Engine is an easy pull. Having oil pressure problems? Mine first went out with oil pressure dropping at idle and red lights, speed up and it would be ok until the rod knocking. Then it was time to remove and have crank checked and polished or reground. Might as well overhaul engine at this point of it being out.

Posted on Aug 26, 2008

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2 Answers

1999 ford 5.4 triton motor,can you repair a rod knocking without pulling engine


drop the oil pan & replace all the ( connecting rod bearings ) which wear out way more than main bearings. also replace the main bearings if bad. if the bearings are still good use them because of the timming chain is heck to get back to top dead center. hope this helps you out

Jun 22, 2016 | Ford Cars & Trucks

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It has a 351 Windsor motor in it. I has a terrible knocking sound. We replaced the main bearing and timing chain. What could it be?


How were the rod bearings? I always check them whenever replacing the main bearings. Why did you only say "main bearing"? There are always more than one.

could also be part of the fuel pump dropping do into the oil pan is now hitting the crank, but you checked the oil pan for "bits and pieces" when you took it off to change the main bearing - right?

Mar 31, 2015 | 1970 Ford Mustang

1 Answer

Replacing crankshaft pulley/balancer assy procedure. 1994 Merc Topaz 2.3 4cyl.


Crankshaft and Main Bearings REMOVAL & INSTALLATION NOTE: When draining coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted by the ethylene glycol antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain the coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or several years old. CAUTION
The EPA warns that prolonged contact with used engine oil may cause a number of skin disorders, including cancer! You should make every effort to minimize your exposure to used engine oil. Protective gloves should be worn when changing the oil. Wash your and and any other exposed skin areas as soon as possible after exposure to used engine oil. Soap and water, or waterless hand cleaner should be used. 2.3L Engine
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Drain the cooling system and engine crankcase.
  3. Remove the engine from the vehicle.
  4. Remove the crankshaft front pulley, front cover, timing chain and sprockets, cylinder head, oil pan, oil pump and intermediate driveshaft.
  5. Remove the rear oil seal cover bolts and remove the cover.
  6. Remove the piston assemblies. NOTE: Mark the connecting rods and bearing caps so they can be installed in the proper cylinders.
  7. Remove the main bearing caps and bearing.
  8. Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the crankcase, so No. 3 thrust bearing surfaces are not damaged.
  9. Remove the main bearing inserts from the engine block and bearing caps. NOTE: For cleaning purposes, the oil gallery and coolant drain plugs can be removed. To install:
  10. Wash the cylinder block thoroughly to remove all foreign material and dry before assembling other components. Check to ensure all oil holes are fully open and clean. Check to ensure the bearing inserts and bearing bores are clean. Clean the mating surfaces of the crankcase and each main bearing cap.
  11. Install the main bearings in the cylinder block. Note that the center front bearing is a thrust bearing and the front upper bearing has a small "V'' notch on the parting line face.
  12. Lubricate the bearings with clean engine oil.
  13. Carefully lower the crankshaft into place. Be careful not to damage the bearing surfaces.
  14. Check the clearance of each main bearing as outlined in this section.
  15. After the bearing has been fitted, apply a light coat of engine oil to the journal and bearings. Install the bearing cap in their original locations . (refer to numbers on caps). The caps must be installed with the arrows pointing to ward the front of the engine. Oil the bolts and tighten to specifications. Repeat the procedure for the remaining bearings. NOTE: Turn the crankshaft to check for turning torque. The turning torque should not exceed 4.5 ft. lbs. (6 Nm).
  16. Install the pistons and connecting rod caps. Check clearance of each bearing, as out lined in this section.
  17. After the connecting rod bearings have been fitted, apply a light coat of engine oil to the journal and bearings.
  18. Turn the crankshaft throw to the bottom of its stroke. Pull the piston all the way down until the rod bearing seats on the crankshaft journal. NOTE: Guide the rod to prevent crankshaft journal and oil cooling jet damage.
  19. Install the connecting rod cap. Align the marks on the rods with the marks on the cap, and tighten the nut.
  20. After the piston and connecting rod assemblies have been installed, check the side clearance between the connecting rods on each connecting rod crankshaft journal.
  21. Install the rear crankshaft seal and cover. Tighten the bolts to 5–7 ft. lbs. (7–10 Nm).
  22. Installation of the remaining components is in the reverse order of removal.

Jul 26, 2010 | 1994 Mercury Topaz

2 Answers

On a 2002 isuzu trooper 3.5 V6 with auto and 4wheel drive do i need to remove engine to pull oil pan? i have a loud banging in motor and need to check crankshaft & bearings


Yes, you need to pull the engine to remove the oil pan. This requires that you remove the propeller shafts and the third cross member to slide the transmission toward the rear of the vehicle. I suggest you purchase a service manual before you start this process. More than likely the rod bearing for cylinder 1 has failed. This seems to be a common problem with later model 3.5L Trooper engines because the oil pump and oil gallery do not deliver oil as efficiently to the number 1 rod bearing.

Apr 26, 2010 | 2002 Isuzu Trooper

2 Answers

Can i drop the oil pan and or change the oil pump with out pulling the engine?


Bearings are located at each "big end" of every connecting rod (the rod that connects each piston to the crankshaft and at each crank support (part of the engine block) To measure wear on a bearing you need something called "plastigage" which is placed betweenthe bearing surface and the crank, the cap re-torqued then removed. You then measure the spread of the gauge material with a micrometer. If you remove any bearing and see brass backing instead of bearing material, you don't need to measure it...It is gone.You need to check all the bearings in this manner. If any Main bearings are worn, the engine needs to be removed as that is the ONLY correct way to replace them without having another immediate failure.
I'm not saying this to be insulting, but if you need to ask where the bearings are, it is likely you should not be doing this work. Though it appears to be a "take out, put in" operation, it takes experience and skill not only to do the job correctly but to recognize things inside that can bite you in the **** if they are not taken care of.
One other item....If you don't understand this answer do not rate it.
I only am a beginner (40 years in repair, many spent building 7,000 hp race engines) so, I'm not very sure about the answer (if you believe that, monkeys will fly tomorrow!!!) We do this free and really don't need a poor rating for a perfectly good answer!!!
Good luck!

Mar 15, 2010 | 1991 Ford F150

2 Answers

1989 jeep cherokee makes loud knocking noise in straight line six 4.0 engine. Engine does not smoke and does not appear to have a miss.


Four things can give you a knocking noise. 1. failed rod bearing 2.failed main bearing 3. Bad piston wristpin 4. broken flex plate (auto trans)
If It's a bearing, likely you are seeing lower than normal oil pressure. Any bearing repair requires the pan to be dropped but to do the job correctly requires engine removal, crank re-grinding or replacement and oiling system cleanout (expensive). Wristpin (piston/rod assembly) can be serviced without engine removal but pan and cylinder head need to be removed. Flex plate is pretty much a trans remove and replace, with new wheel.
Only a good experienced tech can differentiate between the noises so I suggest you seek aid in your diagnosis, though, if either bearing or piston is the problem I'd likely find another engine before considering the repair.

Jan 26, 2010 | 1989 Jeep Cherokee

1 Answer

Can the connecting rod bearings be accessed from under the car? I assume I will have to remove the oil pan and oil pump suction tube/screen to gain access to them, or is there an obstruction I am not aware...


NO YOU CAN GO THROW OIL PAN BUT IF YOU HAVE A BAD KNOCK YOU MAY NEED THE CRANK TRUNED AND NEW CONECTING ROD YOU CANT JUST GO PUT BEARING IN IF YOU DONE DAMAGE TO BEARING

Aug 17, 2009 | 1994 Toyota Camry

1 Answer

Loosing oil pressure after car is warm, thicker oil is not helping


Your problem unfortunately is bearing related. When any oil is cold (regardless of rating) it is heavier than hot. Therefore, cold, with marginal engine crankshaft bearings, you have less bleed off around the bearing faces. Once warmed up, the oil is thinner and prone to more bleed off, lowering pressure. Once pressure is low enough you will begin to hear lifter noise, later, bearing knock. If in the early stages of failure, replacing engine bearings is an option provided that only rod bearings are worn (can be generally done in car. If mains are involved, engine needs to be removed. Oil pump should be replaced during this repair...changing oil pump without repairing the bearings will not fix the problem.

May 19, 2009 | 1994 Ford Thunderbird

1 Answer

I cracked my oil pan and i need to know if i need to take out my engin to change it i'm low on cash i need help


here's v6 3.8L

Section 03-01A: Engine, 3.8L 1996 Thunderbird, Cougar Workshop Manual
IN-VEHICLE SERVICE Oil Pan/Oil Pump Screen Cover and Tube Removal
  1. Disconnect battery ground cable (14301).
  1. Remove air cleaner outlet tube (9B659). Refer to Section 03-12 .
  1. Remove two bolts retaining radiator upper sight shield (8C291) and position radiator upper sight shield aside.
  1. Remove hood weather seal.
  1. Remove windshield wipers.
  1. Remove LH cowl vent screen and wiper module.
  1. Install Three Bar Engine Support D88L-6000-A or equivalent.
  1. Raise vehicle on a hoist. Refer to Section 00-02 .
  1. Remove front engine support insulator through-bolts.
  1. Partially lower vehicle.
  1. Raise engine and support with Three Bar Engine Support D88L-6000-A or equivalent.
  1. Raise vehicle.
  1. Remove starter motor (11002).
  1. Position drain pan.
  1. Drain engine oil.
  1. Remove oil bypass filter (6714).
  1. Remove starter motor wire, ground strap and automatic transmission oil cooler lines.
  1. Remove oil pan-to-bell housing bolts and bolts at crankshaft position sensor lower shield.
  1. Remove remaining oil pan retaining bolts.
  1. Remove steering shaft pinch bolt and separate steering shaft.
  1. Position transmission jack under front sub-frame (5C145).
  1. Remove six rearward bolts on front sub-frame. Loosen two forward front sub-frame bolts.
  1. Remove lower shock absorber-to-front suspension lower arm bolts and nuts (both sides).
  1. Lower front sub-frame.
  1. Remove oil pan (6675).
  1. Empty any residual oil from oil pan.
  1. Remove oil pump screen cover and tube retainer bolts and support bracket nut. Remove oil pump screen cover and tube (6622) and discard oil pump inlet tube gasket (6626).

Apr 14, 2009 | 1996 Ford Thunderbird LX

1 Answer

Jeep cherokee with a 4.0 6 cyl when a start the motor cold it sounds like a diesel engine, lots of clanking. last a couple of seconds then goes away. replaced oil pump. no help there.


Lots of clanking when first started sounds like a worn rod bearing. Check the engine compartment and rev engine to listen for knocking. It will get progressively worse as time goes by. Nothing to do except buy/install new crankshaft kit from autozone, about $300+.

In the mean time, just change oil and put in some oil additive to lessen the knocking. High speeds will accelerate the wear of the rod bearing. The rod bearing is installed inside of the piston rod. This bearing goes around the crankshaft. It has very tight tolerances down to the thousands of an inch. When it gets worn, metal will flake off of the soft bearing material and contaminate your oil more. If you catch it early enough, you can replace the bearing without too much trouble. Here is what you need to do.

Find the bad bearing. If you hear the knocking with the engine on and under the hood, disconnect a sparkplug. If the knocking goes away, that is the bad bearing. Do this disconnecting/reconnecting until you identify the bad bearings. Now disconnect battery. Next loosen drive belt- done from steering pump. Loosen 2-13mm bolts on back, one on top and one on bracket on bottom. On bottom right-hand side of pump will be a long adjusting bolt. Loosen turn this bolt counter clockwise to loosen drive belt. Now jack vehicle from the frame, vehicle will raise but tires will remain on ground. keep going as high as your jack will go. Install jack stands on frame. This extends your suspension and keep body raised. Drain oil, remove steering damper. It's the shock absorber looking thing connected to your tie rods/center link. The easiest way to remove the oil pan is to get a 3/8 inch socket adapter for a cordless drill. The bolts will come out in a hurry if you do this. Keep track of where the double sided bolts are, they secure the fuel line brackets. After all are removed, wiggle, tug, and pull pan out. Now you will see the large main caps and the rod caps. The mains are bolted to the block and the rods will rotate up and down with the spinning of the crankshaft. Spin the crankshaft to see. Each bearing cap needs to be marked. Use a center punch and hammer to mark from front to rear. 1 mark for rod cap 1 and so forth. You should end up with 6 marks on rod cap #6. Do the marking on the front side of the cap so you know how it fits back. Remove the rod caps that corresponded to the bad bearing identified earlier. Remove nut on cap. Wiggle cap back and forth until it comes loose. It will eventually come out. Inside the cap, you will see the bearing. It is basically a liner for the cap that rides on the crankshaft. there is one on the top of the rod too. Remove it by pushing rod up into cylinder and pulling it out with your hand. Ensure you remember the orientation of the bearings. One side has a notch, the other has a key that fits into a hole on the rod. Now you have the bearing in hand, check for scoring, or wearing on the face. Check the web for a nice color picture. Feel the crankshaft bearing area with your finger nail. It should be smooth and not ridged. Purchase some plastigage along with a standard .000 bearing. Clean rod surface, install new bearing and plastigage. Tighten to torque. Remove cap and measure plastigage for your oil clearance. Now you can purchase the correct bearing to match your oil clearance. If you don't have a repair manual, now's a good time to get it. It has bearing tolerances for you to get the correct bearing. After you have the correct bearings, use oil additive to grease up the new bearing/crank surfaces. Put everything back together, put some quality magnets inside of your oil pan near the drain hole and cross your fingers.

Nov 20, 2008 | Jeep Cherokee Cars & Trucks

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