Question about 2001 Volkswagen Cabrio

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The vehicle has fire out of the coil to the cap but nothing out of the cap to the wires. I have fuel. Replaced the timing belt and the timing marks are all on according to the manual. Car turns over with no problem will not fire. Car was being driven as it quit. Replaced cap and rotor also. Have not replaced pick up coil in the distributor. I was told that you can unplug the pick up and it should still run.

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Hi

Defective ignition wires will block the necessary voltage, which results in a cylinder misfire or no-fire condition. Several tests allow the vehicle owner to pinpoint the location and causes of faulty ignition wires.

Park the vehicle in an enclosed garage. Block out all forms of light over the windows and seams. This procedure works best at night. Start the engine and raise the hood. Look for any type of electrical arc along the paths of the plug wires, from their spark plug boot ends to the distributor cap. Any blue-white arc, seen as a miniature lighting bolt, will indicate a breakage in the wire insulation or rubber boot. Replace arcing wires.Allow the engine to idle. Use a pair of insulated plug pliers to grip the boot end of a spark plug wire at the cylinder head. Pull it off. If the engine RPM drops, the plug wire checks out okay. Place the metal shank end of a long screwdriver into the wire connector and hold it near a metal ground source on the engine. Look for a good blue-white arc from the screwdriver to the ground source. No arc, or an arc that appears yellow indicates weak voltage.

Listen for any snapping noise coming from the engine while it idles. Breaks in ignition wire insulation emit an electrical snap or clicking noise, not to be confused with a metal tappet or lifter engine noise. Run a long-handled screw driver shank along the length of each wire. If a break in the wire exists, an arc will jump to the screwdriver and emit a small snapping noise.Inspect each plug wire by removing them one by one from the vehicle. Look at the crimped connections on both ends. Make sure the layered carbon or copper wire has a solid fit at the crimped connector. Look at the boots for cracks and burns. Inspect the total length of the wire for burn marks, cuts or cracks. Replace damaged wires.

Shut the engine off. Use the plug wire pliers to remove one plug wire from both ends of their connection point. Take one lead from an ohm meter and place it on the connector at one wire end. Place the other ohm meter lead on the other end of the wire connector. Read the ohm meter scale. If the ohms number indicates 1 or under, the wire has an "open" condition, which means an internal break. If using a needle-operated ohm meter, the needle will swing off the scale, indicating infinity, or an open condition.

Measure the ohms resistance on each individual wire. Remember that 1 and below means wire breakage. A good ignition plug wire will read about 10,000 to 15,000 ohms for every foot of length. A three-foot long plug wire will check out okay if it reads 45,000 ohms or below, for example. Use a tape measure to find the exact length of your wires, for increased accuracy. Do not forget to check the coil wire that leads to the distributor, in the same fashion. A 1-foot long coil wire should not read more than 15,000 ohms resistance.


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Posted on Apr 08, 2011

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