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If the system is running right, a quick check is to see if the cold side of the compressor lines are sweating/condensation. Then most likely the system is good. The A/C filter, called a dryer, isn't changed unless you have a catastrophic compressor failure, ie lots of metal in the lines. The cabin air filter has nothing to do with the A/C system. Assuming you have a good system and not getting cool air inside the cabin. The blend door motor is bad or it could be just unplugged. These are usually locate under the dash, in front of the console, on the drivers side. Some times on the passenger side. I do many makes and models of cars, So I can't tell you exactly where yours is. Hope this helps.
Unless you have an engine light on, the first thing I would check is tire pressure. You should run at least 35 psi. Tire size can make a big difference also, smaller is better. If you have very large off-road tires, you will pay for poor rolling resistance. Use skinny, tall tires for better mileage. The other obvious item would be the air filter, make sure it is new every 10,000 miles. The computer is programmed to deliver fuel for an expected amount of air delivery, if the air can't get through, it will run rich and get poor mileage and performance.
It sounds like condensed water from the air conditioner. Just like a glass with ice in it sweats, the cold part of an air conditioner sweats. That water needs to go somewhere. There is a drain on the bottom of the ductwork that comes out under the car, often toward the passenger side.
If the drain gets plugged, the A/C still sweats, but the water builds up inside the ductwork.
You can often clear the drain by blowing some air up the drain from the outside. (Don't use too much pressure!)
I can tell you general principles about A/C but have not worked on a Hyundai. If the A/C lines under the hood and directly from the black cylinder tank are frosted or sweating, you have Freon circulating.
There are 2 cutoff switches in all systems. A low pressure and high pressure cutoff. The ideal amount of Freon is in the middle of these 2 pressure points.
In this way the compressor clutch will stay engaged the longest and keep the Freon circulating the longest. This is the way you get COLD air.
There are ways to measure the pressure and to find leaks. You can sometimes loan tools from Autozone or Oreillys for a deposit. Before blaming another electrical problem for the lack of COLD air you should test the pressure of the Freon left in the system. If you are within 90 days or 3000 miles, most minimum warranties cover the parts. With factory warranty it should go farther.
In answer to your electrical concern, yes there is another system controlling the A/C. The ductwork has either vacuum operated or electrically operated doors (flaps) under the dash. These "doors" blend the airflow by mixing cold and hot air to give you the temperature you want. If you want all COLD you keep the heater door shut and so on.
So you look at these areas separately first. Under the hood is the Freon pressure good? Pipes sweating? Compressor clutch on steady? And if everything under the hood is good, then you look inside the car at the ductwork.