Question about 2003 Saab 9-3

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I HAVE 94 SAAB 900S .IT HAS INTERMITTENT STARTING PROBLEMS . CHECKED COIL AND IT WAS GETTING NO SPARK TO PLUGS . SO I CHANGED PLUGS ,WIRES , AND COIL . STARTED 4 TIMES THE FIFTH TIME IT WOULDN'T START . AGAIN NO SPARK FROM COIL BUT COIL IS GETTING JUICE FROM IGNITION .

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Have a GOOD look at the plug that connects to the hall sensor, they can become fatigued from heat, which causes the wire insulation to crack and sometimes creates a short circuit. you may have to cut away the black rubber boot to see the wires.

-------------If the coil and wires are all acceptable, the next place to look is the distributor cap/rotor. Are the copper terminals corroded or damaged? As a side thought, with the dist. cap removed, make sure the rotor rotates while cranking the engine over. If so, check the ground strap from the motor to the body/ rum a new ground strap. If all else fails, just replace the dist. cap, and dist. rotor. ---------

Also check the flow of fuel.Is the fuel reaching the fuel rail.Spray a bit starting fluid on the throttle body and then try starting the car.If it start by starting fluid, then its fuel pump issue.The fuel is not flowing.----------If your engine cranks normally but will not start because it has no spark, or it stalls and won't restart because it has no spark, the problem may be due to any of the following:

1) A bad pickup inside the distributor ,a stripped distributor drive gear (common problem with plastic distributor drive gears), broken, loose or corroded wires from the pickup to the ignition module or PCM.

2) A bad crankshaft position (CKP) sensor or broken, loose or corroded wires from the sensor to the PCM.

3) A bad ignition module or A bad ignition coil .

4) A bad rotor or distributor cap (cracks or carbon tracks that are allowing the spark to short to ground)

5) Faulty ignition switch.

------------You can also do a test to confirm the problem .The procedure to do the test is as follows:---

If your engine has spark plug wires, disconnect one of the plug wires from a spark plug and place the end of the wire near a metal surface on the engine. Then insert a small Phillips screwdriver into the end of the wire (the plug boot), or a small bolt or nail to provide a conductive path. Then crank the engine and look for a spark to jump from the screwdriver, bolt or nail in the end of the plug wire to the engine. If you do not see a spark, there is an ignition problem.

OR-----------

If your engine has a coil-on-plug ignition system with no plug wires, In that case remove one of the coils from the spark plug and insert an old spark plug, a spark plug tester or a screwdriver into the end of the coil. Ground the spark plug or plug tester to the engine, then crank the engine and look for a spark. No spark indicates an ignition problem.

Possibilities to be checked in this problem are as follows:--

If the engine has no spark, check for voltage at the coil positive terminal when the ignition key is on. If NO voltage, then problem is on the trigger side of the coil (pickup, crank sensor, ignition module or primary wiring circuit).

But If there is NO voltage at the coil itself, then in that case the problem is on the supply side (the ignition switch or ignition wiring circuit).

But if the coil has voltage, then problem may be a bad high voltage output wire from the coil to the distributor, hairline cracks in the coil output tower, or cracks or carbon tracks inside the distributor cap or on the rotor.------Getting this all possibilities checked will point towards the exact faulty part which is to be replaced.----------This should help.keep updated Thanks.Helpmech.

Posted on Apr 07, 2011

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