Question about 2008 Chrysler 300

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2003 Chrysler 300M that suddenly drains the battery in a matter of hours. I have replaced the battery 4 times in the past 2 years

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  • Chrysler Master
  • 6,674 Answers

You obviously need to have charging system tested, as well as an amp draw test when engine is off. Check, clean and tighten all connections, and don't forget any extra ground straps from engine to body, frame to engine etc.
If all checks out good, and you don't want to pay someone to test for current draw when engine off, you can do it yourself with a 12volt DC test light ( about $5 ) if your willing to spend the time. Make sure if your stereo has anti-theft code, that you have it ready for after to reprogram radio/stereo.
Now remove positive terminal connection on battery. Your vehicle may/should have a connection under hood on passenger side, if battery is located in front of passenger front wheel. The cable going down to battery is the one you need to disconnect carefully so as not to touch against metal on body. If easier to get connection off at battery, do so. What needs to happen is that you need to connect the test light between battery connection, and battery. One end to battery and other to main cable that connects to battery. When there is a current draw, the test light will be illuminated. The brighter the light, the bigger the draw. Now you need to watch test light, or have someone watch it for you and start pulling fuses. If you pull a fuse and light doesn't change, put it back in. If light changes (dims) then you've found a circuit causing a draw. Big change in light, or light goes out, bigger draw, and likely source of problem. Keep in mind that radio/stereo has small draw due to memory storage. What I usually do is pull it and leave it out while testing. You probably have a fuse/relay box under hood on drivers side, so start there. I usually pull door locks, power windows, anti-theft, stereo amp, power trunk etc first, as they can stick and cause a good draw, as well as any fuses for 12 volt power center, such as sockets to plug in cell phones etc. Then go to fuse panel inside if not found. Once light goes out, or gets very dim, you've isolated the circuit causing the problem and can correct from there. . Good Luck

Posted on Apr 09, 2011

  • kfnconsult Apr 09, 2011

    If there is a "clicking" sound that continues after the ignition is turned off, even if the key is removed, what would be the most likely source? The clicking sound is sometime accompanied by flashing lights on the dash. The vehicle has on one occasion, sputtered with flashing dash including all warning lights while travelling. I took it to the dealership immediately, but they couldn't find the cause. The consensus from those that have observed this is the sound is liely a timer, The frustrating part is that you have to find the draw when it occurs and it is totally random.

  • Mike Butler
    Mike Butler Apr 09, 2011

    Have a look at this copy of a Chrysler service bulletin. Good place to start if you ask me. People have reported dash lights, headlights, interior lights etc flashing when vehicle has been locked and everything shut off for hours, and no one near the vehicle.


    Answer
    SUBJECT:
    Headlamp/Instrument Panel
    Illumination
    OVERVIEW:
    This bulletin involves applying dielectric grease
    to the headlamp switch wiring connector.
    MODELS:
    2000 - 2004 (LH)
    LHS/300M/Concorde/Intrepid
    SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
    Subject vehicles may have
    the instrument cluster illumination change in brightness.
    Subject vehicles
    equipped with "auto-lamps" may also have headlamps or fog lamps
    come on at
    unexpected times while the switch is in "auto-lamp" mode.
    DIAGNOSIS:
    If
    the vehicle operator describes one or both of the above Symptoms,
    perform the
    Repair Procedure.
    PARTS REQUIRED:
    Qty. Part No. Description
    1 J8126688
    Mopar - Dielectric grease
    REPAIR PROCEDURE:
    NOTE: DO NOT REPLACE HEADLAMP
    SWITCH BECAUSE PART REPLACEMENT
    WILL NOT CORRECT THIS CONDITION.
    1. Open
    hood and disconnect the negative battery cable.
    2. Remove the instrument
    panel left end cap.
    3. Remove steering column shroud cover.
    4. Tilt the
    steering column down into the lowest position.
    5. Remove one screw
    (Limited/300M) to cluster bezel.
    6. Remove the items to expose bezel mounting
    screws. Items vary depending on model.
    7. Remove two screws over upper
    cluster bezel in instrument panel brow area and all
    remaining attaching
    screws (four on Intrepid, Limited, and 300M, and five on Concorde).
    8. Using
    a trim stick (special tool #C-4755), gently pry out on the
    instrument panel
    cluster bezel.
    9. Disconnect and connect the wire harness from the headlamp
    switch
    three (3) times to clean the contacts.
    08-022-03 -2-
    10.
    Disconnect the wire harness from the headlamp switch and apply Mopar
    Dielectric
    Grease, p/n J8126688, to the harness connector terminals.
    11.
    Reconnect the harness to the headlamp switch.
    12. Reassemble the instrument
    panel.
    13. Connect the negative battery cable and set the clock to the
    correct time

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I don't think you are as persecuted as you think...
Your first impression...

"Not likely all 4 at the same time"...
I think was CORRECT.

I would put a few more miles on the car...

I suspect they will all (4) check back in because
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