Question about Volvo V70

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I bought replacement struts for the hood on my 2001 V70. It looks like the old ones ought to simply snap off and the new ones snap in place. I don't want to screw-up the attachment points by applying too much pressure. What's the best way to get them off?...there's a small tension clip at each end of the strut.

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Remove the clip ,then the strut

Posted on Apr 07, 2011

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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My tailgate will not stay up on my 2002 v70 wagon. Can you help?


You need new tailgate struts. Most auto parts stores sell them. Just stick a broom stick under the tailgate and remove the ceiling panel and unsnap the old ones and snap the new ones in. Make sure to install them exactly the way they were before you started.

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How do I remove front suspension strut?


first off you need a strut spring compressor . then it a simple unbolt the old and put the new one in place .

Aug 29, 2014 | 2001 Citroen Xsara Picasso

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How to install hood struts


The gas assist struts should be replaced in pairs - one at a time.

  1. Prop up the hood in such a way as to take all the weight off the struts. You can cut a piece of wood to the right length in order to do this. Alternately you can ask a strong person to hold up the hood while you work - but it's not advised.
  2. The struts have ball sockets at each end. They're locked in place by a metal band. Insert a thin narrow tool into the groove under the center of the band and pry the band up until the socket disengages. Do this at each end.
  3. With all the weight off the strut, disengage it from the hinge and discard.
  4. The new struts should come with the metal band in the disengaged position. If not, disengage it, but do not remove it completely.
  5. Push each end onto its respective hinge ball until seated, then snap the locking bands into place.
  6. Repeat for other side.

Jul 03, 2014 | 1994 Chrysler Concorde

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How do you install trunk struts on a 1998 volvo S70? The problem is with the end behind the seat?


My procedure (after spending 2 hours finding nothing but dead ends and 20 minutes after I figured out the procedure...). Also, found that having a second person is key to making things go smoother!
1. Purchase a pair of quality struts with specifications for trunks with or without a spoiler on it. Trunks with a spoiler requires a heavier, beefier strut. Save yourself a headache and replace both struts while you are at it, no need to face this task 6 months later. Fluid leaking out of struts are a sure indication that you need new ones!
2. Remove and save the old strut to compare it to the new struts you purchased. There are two accesses you'll need to position yourself in: 1. from the trunk and 2. from the back seat into a tight wheel well cavity that you can hardly get your hand into.
3. From the back seat, pull down the backrest side cushion near the door on each side to access the cavity that has the rod end with the plastic clip inside it. The cushion pulls out when grabbing the top and pulling towards you. No need to manhandle this cushion and you only want to pull the top off and slant it sideways in order to get your hand inside this small cavity through the access hole.
4. Note that the plastic 'clip' end of the strut is attached to a permanent welded pin located inside the cavity. Using flat head screw driver, pry plastic clip off of welded pin inside the cavity.
5. On trunk side of the strut, use a small flathead screw driver and insert under retaining clip to release the old strut from the permanent bulbous pin welded to the body. Note: You can check out your new strut and you'll see how the clip needs to be 'pried' off slightly to open the aperture where the bulbous/rounded pin head goes into and it would snap on.
6. Now compare your old and new struts. Look closely at the two ends and compare the sizes. Particularly compare the 'plastic' "C" end clip at the end of the strut rod that has to 'snap' over the pin that is welded inside the cavity. Getting the plastic "C" end clip off is a ...'snap' but getting this back on and 'snap' in place is a potential project.
7. For me, after comparing the old and the new ends, I had to file down the new plastic "C" end clip so it would look almost identical in size to the original one I took off and would be able to 'snap' back on over the welded clip inside the cavity. The other side of the strut that is installed from the trunk was just fine so I didn't have to do anything there.
8. When trying to 'snap' the "C" end clip over the pin inside the cavity, I found that I couldn't get enough downward pressure on it to 'snap' it in place. So, I took someone's suggestion on the web to loop a 3/8" small rope over the end of the clip inside the cavity, draped the two ends of the rope outside the opening to the cavity and exerted 'downward' pressure on the rope pulling the clip against the pin which forced the "C" clip to 'snap' into place over the welded pin!! Slight filing (not too much) will get the end just right to snap over the pin and it's plastic which files off in seconds. Little at a time or else you find you just destroyed your strut! Note: prior to the rope trick, I tried every tool known to man to snap this clip in place inside the small cavity!!! For my big hands, there is just not enough room to get your hand in there to move around, never mind getting a tool in there as well! Once you look at this ridiculous setup, you'll know exactly what I mean!
9. Now the easy part. From the trunk, prepare the other end of the strut to install over the bulbous end of the permanent pin welded to the body by prying the retaining clip as previously mentioned. You'll see as you pry off the clip (but do NOT remove it completely) the opening on this end of the strut will permit it to slide easily over the pin. Best to have one person there to move the trunk up or down to align the pin to the end of the strut to line it up and slide it on.
10. Bingo - slide it on, make sure you press the retaining clip back in place so it grabs the bulbous end of the pin and you're done! Like I said I spent 2 hours fiddling about and 20 minutes installing both struts once I got the filing of the end and rope trick down!
Key to this project: compare the ends you are trying to snap and slide on (adjust/shave if necessary), get access from the back seat by pulling back the side backrest cushion to access the cavity and the old 'rope' trick to get downward pressure to 'snap' on the darn "C" clip inside the cavity!!
Good luck - you can do it with only a screwdriver and piece of rope!

Nov 01, 2010 | 1998 Volvo S70

1 Answer

How to change stuts


  • Rent a spring compressor before you start removing the old struts and putting on the new ones. You can rent a spring compressor at any auto store. You can also buy one, but if you are only going to use the compressor once, it's best to simply rent it. Jack up the car and remove the tire. Then place one jack stand on the side you are working on.
  • 2 Loosen the two lower bolts that hold the brake line to the strut you want to remove. Remove the cap covering the top of the strut, and while holding the coil over the strut, remove three nuts. Pull out the cover to the strut assembly.
  • 3 Tighten the spring using the spring compressor and remove the nut at the top of the strut. Decompress the spring, and the strut will be freed from the spring. Remove the front strut.
  • 4 Put in the new strut and bolt it back up. Replace the tire. You now have the old strut removed and the new one in place.
  • 5 Repeat Steps 1 through 4 when removing and replacing the rear strut.

  • I hope this helps!!! Thanks!!!

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