Question about Saturn L-Series
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
My 1994 Vanden Plas makes the same noise. I know I need rear shocks. You do also!! Have the rear shocks replaced. Bilstein part number B46 1858 or Koni part number 30 1377. Actually the Bilstein is the better shock and less expensive.
Posted on Dec 29, 2008
Turns out that after 26 years and 233 thousand miles, the original strut gave up the ghost: Rust! I took the shock strut assembly out of a 'spare parts' Honda Accord I keep and replaced the broken one in the Honda I am now driving. Mechanically the car is still excellent, but the car is destined to dissolve around me! To remove the whole assembly required taking out one 14mm bolt at the bottom and three 12mm bolts at the top, some WD 40, several pieces of wood for leverage and a heavy mallet.. Since there is a heavy duty coil spring involved, one should take out the bottom bolt first and lift the bottom of the strut free from its position, ( this is where I used a long 2x4 and another piece of wood as the fulcrum point to pry the strut upward) Then undo the top 3 bolts and the whole unit falls out. You will also need to detach the brake fluid line that uses the strut itself as an anchor. The easiest way is to take the line off from the back of the brake drum housing ( 9mm nut) and remove the horseshoe clip and push the curved metal brake line through the small hole where the line is anchored to the strut. Use care as you will need to reattach the brake line again after installing the next shock strut. (Coil spring compression tool required) Needless to say, you will need to jack the car up and remove the rear tire first to access the whole thing.
Posted on Apr 10, 2009
SOURCE: Replace coil spring
You have to remove them - that "block" is the upper strut-to-body mounting section and serves as the upper seat for the spring as well as the anchor for the top of the strut. You need to take those four 17mm bolts out, as well as the rear upper sway bar bolt, the upper control arm bolt (at the top of the hub), and the bottom bolt on the strut, where it goes through the lower control arm. You'll then have to compress the spring enough to take the bolt out of the "block" (it goes through sideways, and I believe is 19mm on the bolt head as well as the nut). At this point, you can slide the spring/strut out of the block, decompress the spring, pull out the strut, and install a new spring over the strut. Recompress enough to get the top of the strut visible through the anchor bolt hole in the block, rebolt it, decompress the spring, and reinstall the assembly in the car. Usually when you go to reinstall it, the bottom of the strut is not angled quite right once the top four 17mm bolts are back in and the block is secured to the body. I put a large screwdriver through the lower strut bolt hole at the bottom of the strut and use that to turn it, or I grab the weld near the bottom of the strut with large ChanneLock pliers and turn it until it's aligned with the control arm properly. Once it is, put the lower bolt back in, rebolt the control arm and sway bar, and you're good to go.
Note - this job will not affect alignment specs - you don't remove any bolts used in aligning the car, so that's not a concern when doing this repair.
Posted on May 01, 2009
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