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What are the tork stings of the connecting rod nuts

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20nm throughout the whole toyota range according to my alldata book

Posted on Apr 06, 2011

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Hi i hav a 1990 toyota with the 3vze 3.0 v6 sohc 12 valve i need the rod bolt torque


The connecting rod nuts for these engines use a combination torque, then turn method to achieve the proper clamping load. First the nut is torqued to 18 lbs.ft., then turned an additional 90°. It is possible for the rod bolt to slightly turn inside the connecting rod during this process, causing the final torque to be below specifications. The nut must be turned 90° relative to the bolt, not the connecting rod.

Mar 23, 2011 | Toyota 4Runner Cars & Trucks

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STeering wheel is loose and noisy while steering. Sounds like something broke inside.


This might help to understand the steering linkage: REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: Steering linkage used on the Bronco and 4-wheel drive F-150 84928067.gif
Fig. 2: Steering linkage used on the 4-wheel drive F-350 84928070.gif
Fig. 3: Steering linkage used on F-Super Duty chassis/cab 84928071.gif
Pitman Arm EXCEPT F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS AND MOTOR HOME CHASSIS
  1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  2. Disconnect the drag link at the Pitman arm. You'll need a puller such as a tie rod end remover.
  3. Remove the Pitman arm-to-gear nut and washer.
  4. Matchmark the Pitman arm and gear housing for installation purposes.
  5. Using a 2-jawed puller, remove the Pitman arm from the gear.
  6. Installation is the reverse of removal. Align the matchmarks when installing the Pitman arm. Tighten the Pitman arm nut to 170-230 ft. lbs. (230-312 Nm); torque the drag link ball stud nut to 50-75 ft. lbs. (68-102 Nm), advancing the nut to align the cotter pin hole. Never back off the nut to align the hole.
F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS MOTOR HOME CHASSIS
  1. Matchmark the Pitman arm and sector shaft.
  2. Disconnect the drag link from the Pitman arm.
  3. Remove the bolt and nut securing the Pitman arm to the sector shaft.
  4. Using a 2-jawed gear puller, remove the Pitman arm from the sector shaft. To install:
  5. Aligning the matchmarks, slide the Pitman arm onto the sector shaft. If the arm won't slide on easily, use a cold chisel to spread the separation. NEVER HAMMER THE ARM ONTO THE SHAFT! Hammering on the arm will damage the steering gear!
  6. Install the nut and bolt. Tighten the nut to 220-300 ft. lbs. (298-407 Nm).
  7. Connect the drag link.
Tie Rod and Drag Link EXCEPT RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  2. Remove the cotter pins and rust from the drag link and tie rod ball studs.
  3. Remove the drag link ball studs from the right-hand spindle and Pitman arm.
  4. Remove the tie rod ball studs from the left-hand spindle and drag link.
  5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the nuts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm). Always use new cotter pins.
  6. Have the front end alignment checked.
RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
  3. Remove the nuts connecting the drag link ball studs to the connecting rod and Pitman arm.
  4. Disconnect the drag link using a tie rod end remover.
  5. Loosen the bolts on the adjuster clamp. Count the number of turns it take to remove the drag link from the adjuster. To install:
  6. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Install the drag link with the same number of turns it took to remove it. Make certain that the wheels remain in the straight-ahead position during installation. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the adjuster clamp nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). Tighten the ball stud nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
  7. Have the front end alignment checked.
Connecting Rod RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
  3. Disconnect the connecting rod from the drag link by removing the nut and separating the two with a tie rod end remover.
  4. Loosen the bolts on the adjusting sleeve clamps. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the connecting rod from the connecting rod from the adjuster sleeve and remove the rod.
  5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Install the connecting rod the exact number of turns noted during removal. Tighten the tie rod nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm); the ball stud nut to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
  6. Have the front end alignment checked.
Tie Rod Ends RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE Fig. 4: Remove the cotter pin from the castellated nut at the ball stud 88288p02.jpg
Fig. 5: Remove the nut from the ball stud 88288p03.jpg
Fig. 6: Use a tie rod end puller tool to remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm 88288p04.jpg
Fig. 7: Liquid correction fluid makes excellent paint to mark the threads of the tie rod end 88288p05.jpg
Fig. 8: For a more accurate reinstallation, you may measure the tie rod end prior to removal 88288p06.jpg
Fig. 9: After having loosened the nut, unscrew and remove the tie rod end 88288p07.jpg
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  3. Remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm using a tie rod end remover. NOTE: Optional: paint a mark or measure the length of the tie rod end threads to ease reinstallation in as close to the original position as possible.
  4. Loosen the nuts on the adjusting sleeve clamp. Remove the ball stud from the adjuster, or the adjuster from the tie rod. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the sleeve from the tie rod or ball stud from the sleeve. To install:
  5. Install the sleeve on the tie rod, or the ball in the sleeve the same number of turns noted during removal. Make sure that the adjuster clamps are in the correct position, illustrated, and torque the clamp bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
  6. Keep the wheels facing straight-ahead and install the ball studs. Tighten the nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm). Use new cotter pins.
  7. Install the drag link and connecting rod.
  8. Have the front end alignment checked.
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Sep 18, 2010 | 1996 Ford F150 Regular Cab

1 Answer

Connecting rod bearing( hyudai elantra 2001)


32/33 Lb.ft for the connecting rod Bolts. For other units kindly use conveters

Jun 06, 2010 | 2001 Hyundai Elantra

1 Answer

Half Shaft


pull off hub cap remove circlip in the nut if there is one, then loosen axle nut. Need a breaker bar and wheel on the ground. once nut is off loosen lug nuts, jack up car on side . bolts #10 Tork on some models then remove. Remove lower tie rod end remove bolt and nut. remove rotor and 2 Caliper pull out on the bolt. push lower control arm down with a bar and pull strut Assembly out away from car. next pull axle out using a flat bar to shove the axle out of transmission. install is in reverse.

Mar 23, 2010 | 1996 Plymouth Voyager

1 Answer

Tork speks on a 1976 f 250 460 eng main berring tork speks


The main bearing caps are 95-105 ft.lbs. The connecting rod caps are 40-45 ft.lbs. The flywheel to crank is 75-85 ft.lbs. The vibration damper is 70-90. The head bolts are 130-140. Hope this helps.

Nov 04, 2009 | Ford F-250 Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Rod bearing torque setting for a 1992 chevy lumina 3.1


tighten to close bearing cap snug only, bearing snapped in, tork 10 PSI one bolt then the next tighetn to 20 PSI then test to see if bearing is not binding next tighten to 28 PSI check for free movement of crank then your done. Use lock tight on the nuts.

Aug 27, 2009 | 1992 Chevrolet Lumina

1 Answer

Need the tork spec for the rods, mains, and cam 99 cav 2.2


go to any good parts store and get or order
a repair book specific for your car that
will have the info that u require

gl G

May 03, 2009 | 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier

1 Answer

Tork specks for the pinion nut on a 10 1/4 rear end from a 97 f250 hd


dd3e543.gif
the pinion nut does not have a specific torque there is a crush sleeve in there and preload needs to be set

Sep 24, 2008 | 1997 Ford F250 SuperCab

1 Answer

Mazda protege


hello dusto, no it should not be. the nut on the tie rod end which connects it to the steering knuckle / hub should come off counter clockwise. the nut which connects the inner tie rod to the outer tie rod should also be counter clockwise, remember though that from your view point it will look as though the nut will be turning right. hope i did'nt confuse, please let me know if i can be of any other help.

Sep 17, 2008 | 1993 Mazda 626

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