Question about 2003 Chevrolet Impala

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Can it have a short in we put cole packs on it new alternator batterie modulare ouder the cole pack but it is still like it is miss firing can you help us been broke down for 3 weeks realy need our car

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First you need to slow down when typing and spell check it. It makes it very hard to understand what you are saying. I miss fire can occur for several reason.
1. bad coil.
2. bad spark plug
3. bad spark plug wire
4 faulty ignition module
5. timing belt has slipped

You need to knock a few off the list and go from there. If the vehicle starts then the timing belt has not slipped. Depending on the severity of the miss fire can eliminate a faulty ignition module.

The most likely cause of a misfire is going to be plugs and wires. An easy way to check is make the engine compartment dark and see if you notice any sparks coming from the plugs or wires. You can verify a properly functioning coil pack by taking a spark plug and putting it in every spark plug wire to see if it has spark.

Posted on Apr 06, 2011

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If the coil pack did not resolve the issue you are experiencing, then you may either have an injector issue, or a faulty PCM-powerterain control module, also known as the vehicle's computer.

Posted on Apr 06, 2011

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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05 Ford Escape, coils #3 & #4 not firing. We've replaced the battery, spark plugs, alternator, coil packs, & pcm. Had pcm reflashed. Garage said it had to be coil packs, but just replaced coil packs 3


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Code says number one cylender miss fireing just did tune up still miss fireing


Depending on your vehicle is the coil pack good? If so with car running unplug the alternator and see if the engine smooths out, if so replace the alternator. The alternator can have a short inside causing a misfire code, if coil pack, wires, and plugs are good.

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2000 ford expidition will not crank over. Battery good


This could be a number of things, however, make sure that the battery is indeed good, as I have had batteries that have tested good, but once I put in a new battery my car would start immediately.

Have the alternator tested, check all connections at the battery, the starter, and the ground which will run to either the chassi (frame) or the engine block, or a bracket that mounts to the engine block.

Also make sure all relays and fuses related to the battery, alternator, starter and ignition are good.

If this has a distributor, make sure the coil wire is secure at both sides. This alone will prevent it from cranking and/or starting. If you have coil pack(s), have it (them) tested; this (these) will also have a modular under them, which cannot be tested, so if you look at it, if it looks white, bubbly and/or melted, it needs replaced.

I will let you know that coil packs and the modular are spendy, so only replace any packs that are deemed (tested) bad.

Last, if this is equipped with a distributor, check the cap and rotor. If the rotor is cracked, is white on the metal end tip, and the metal points in the cap are white, and/or warn (grooved) and have caked material on them, replace them. Check all plug wires for frayed, or melted plastic. If any are in such conditions, replace all, (they come as a set with a coil wire for distributed systems)

Please let me know if you need any further assistance.

carsandcomps,

Guru, Premium Expert @ Fixya.com

May 29, 2010 | 2000 Ford Expedition

1 Answer

Reading number 3 cyl miss fire


Make sure the plug wires are correctly placed on the distributor cap (coil pack). In most cases, (when these are changed) two are accidentally switched.

Simply take two at a time and switch them. (refer to a repair maunal for firing order first). You can look this up online as well at http://www.google.com.

If these are correctly placed, then pull the wires (one at a time) from the plugs, and pull the plugs out and check for oil on the plug. If any one of these has oil, then you may have found your miss fire.

If all there is good (clean these and run truck); pull the distrubutor cap off (if equipped) and make sure the rotor (just under cap in center) is not cracked or warn (check end where small metal end is located). This sparks at each plug point on the distrubutor cap.

That is the next thing to check. On the inside of the cap. look to see that the prongs are not white, grooved, or broken. If any of these are true, replace both cap and rotor. Some rotors pull off, others have a small screw that hold them in palce which is located on the side.

If you're truck has coil pack(s) then have them all (if more than one) tested. These sit on a unit called a modular. Look at the modular after removing the packs and see that it is not bubbling, white, or melted. If any of these are true, it needs replaced as these cannot be tested.

Contact your local automotive parts store for correct parts and pricing. NOTE: some parts (seldom) may need to be purchased from dealer. This is rare, but sometimes an only option.

Also, if you have a distributor, check to make sure the coil wire (center of cap) is pushed on completely on the cap as well as the coil. (coil may need replaced as well) which also cannot be tested.

If need be, and you have not already, replace all of the following to ensure all is good:

plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor, coil, (the coil wire will come with the plug wires, but make sure when purchasing).

If coil packs are present instead of distributor, replace the following:

plugs, plug wires, any coil packs that are tested back, modular if it looks anything like that described above. Also remember to check for oil residue, or blackened powder on the spark plug ends.

If any, replace as necessary. When you replace spark plugs and wires do the following to ensure the firing order remains:

Pull one plug at a time. Take plug wire off the plug only, until new plug is inserted; then replace the appropriate length plug wire. (compare old to new; some may be close in length, but not exact as these are aftermarket plug wires).

Do this for each plug and wire. Save the coil wire for last to know you are finished with all: coil wire is the shortest of all (usually) and only goes on once way at each end: typically. One end will be straight - this goes to the coil. (not coil pack) the other end will be a 90 degree; this goes on the center port on the distributor.

If coil packs are present, there will not be a coil wire, as the coil packs replaced this unit.

My apologies for the lengthy reply, however this is to ensure you save time, money, and are aware of the different options and possibilities.

Please let me know if you need any further assistance.

carsandcomps

Guru, Premium Expert @ Fixya.com

May 14, 2010 | 1996 Toyota Tacoma

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