Question about 1985 Nissan 300ZX
The ecu is on the passenger side behind the kick panel, there is instructions on how to do a self diagnosis and code definitions listed on the ecu
Posted on May 17, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: car wont start
Fuel delivery must be confirmed with a fuel pressure gauge on this vehicle. Disconnecting the fuel line and cranking the engine to see fuel shooting out does not confirm pressure, it only confirms fuel delivery. Remember you need both fuel delivery and pressure. On this vehicle if the psi is off by just one number that's enough to keep it from starting. Also replacing the coil and rotor (as you stated) does not confirm that spark is reaching the plugs. Confirm that both spark and adequate fuel pressure are reaching ALL the spark plugs.
Posted on Dec 28, 2008
SOURCE: 87 nissan starts then stalls
jdmbaker: There are a few areas I would suggest looking in.
First, I would be looking for a false air problem. This is a condition where you have un-metered air getting into the engine. A torn airflow meter boot, or large vacuum leak such as a split pcv hose.
Second, your injector pulse width is primarily dependent on the coolant temperature sensor. This component is located at the front of the motor just below the thermostat housing. The sensor gives the ECM resistance values based on the temperature of the coolant. If the sensor fails, usually, they have a tendency to create a lean condition. This shortens the pulse width of the injectors which essentially starves the engine for fuel. One way you can perform a quick test for a lean condition, is to pinch off the return hose for the fuel going to the tank. If you look at the fuel hoses, they run right next to each other. You have one which comes from the fuel filter. That is the feed line. Pinch the other hose. This will boost the fuel pressure causing more fuel to be sprayed out of the injectors.With the hose pinched, hit the throttle, if the engine will rev up, you persue the lean condition theory.
Third. Check for a weak spark. A severely worn cap and rotor or bad plug wires can cause a hesitation and stalling problem if they are bad enough.
Fourth. The air flow meter could be faulty. This is a very common symptom matching you description.
Odds are that one of these are the solution. Good luck and let me know how you do.
Posted on Jul 14, 2009
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