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How to replace alternator on Saab 95 2.3 turbo

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Saaboheme
  • 76 Answers

SOURCE: Helping a buddy out with replacing his alternator

Allow three hours for the first time. Maybe two if you are experienced with other cars and have air tools.
1. Disconnect the Negative Battery Cable
2. Remove the air breather/cleaner and hose from between the air breather/cleaner and throttle housing
3. Remove the tension from the belt. Use a 1/2 inch socket extension that will fit in the top of the alt housing and pull the alttoward the front of the car. Line up the little hole on the side and slide in a 6mm allen key to hold it here. Remove the belt.
4. Remove the right front wheel
5. Remove the belt cover & Disconnect the battery Cable and the red alternator power wire.
6. Remove the two Alternator Bolts that secure the alternator to the bracket
7. Remove the three bolts that hold the downpipe to the manifold to more give room to remove the alternator
8. Remove the converter bolt from the converter bracket and move the converter over to aid in the alternator removal
9. Refit in reverse

Posted on Apr 29, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: I have a stripped alternator bolt, can I cut it to

I just recently had the same problem, I found that using an "easy out" worked very well for my stripped lower bolt. If your stripped bolt is the upper than it is a different story. If you are talking about cutting the bolt into pieces make sure you are cutting on the alternator side (assuming you are replacing the alt) if not you will risk changing the pulley in respect to the belt and the will be misaligned and will wear/break belts.

Posted on Jan 06, 2010

  • 35 Answers

SOURCE: MY 2000 SAAB 95 NEEDS THE TURBO REPLACED IN ORDER

Elite foreign auto used saabs parts

Posted on Oct 01, 2009

alicantecoli
  • 22133 Answers

SOURCE: I need to replace the

i done one of these earlier in the year and my old age means i cannot remember properly ,i done a water pump as well which meant removing the radiator and the AC rad ,and to get all this off i had to remove the front bumper as well so the radiator came out ,i took the belt tensioner off as well for something but it wasnt difficult as i remember ,that was it i think ,i had to drop the timing belt to get the water pump out if i can remember it correctly ,the problem is i do so may vehicles that i work from basic mechanics and the moto here is if its in the way remove it to gain access .iam sorry but iam sitting here racking my brains trying to remember how i took that tensioner off and for the life of me i cannot remember what i did or how i done it so it had to be simple for me not to remember ,funny because the owner of the car was here today with a friend dropping another vehicle off for repair .Sorry but i think you will have to ask again and maybe it will be fresher in someone elses memory .

Posted on Nov 22, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: how to change a alternator on a 1998 saab 900 se

I recently had the alternator fail on my 1998 Saab 900s Turbo 2.0 and realize that it's removal and replacement is not the most straightforward process.
While there are quite a few places to look for assistance in removing the alternator, many of them point to the 93 or early 900's.
I won't go into great detail of the removal of every single bolt, but will try and give a decent step by step of the entire process. I should note that most of the resources you find online are correct up until actually taking the alternator out of the vehicle. That's not to say the rest is easy, but getting the thing out of the engine bay is a chore. Many books and online resources give misinformation as to this process and it took me some time to realize that.
Here is a rough step-by-step:
Remove the air box/cleaner
Pry back the tensioner and remove the belt (inspect and/or replace)
Remove the tensioner altogether (some resources say this isn't necessary, do yourself a favor and just take it out, it's difficult but worth it and you can check the pulley, mine was bad.)
Remove the right, front wheel.
Remove the lower bolt that mounts the alternator. (Should be 5/16 or 7/16 hex, recessed)
Remove the upper bolt for the alternator mount. (This is very tough to get at but be patient)
The alternator will likely be stuck in it's mounts. Give each one a shot of lubricant.
While letting the lube set a bit, you can get under the vehicle (make sure it's supported properly) and remove the two cables from the back of the alternator. They can be seen just above the catalytic converter towards the passenger side of the vehicle. A universal socket helps a lot with these two. (you can also un-mount the alternator and spin it around to remove the wires, either method is of equal difficulty)
You'll now need to pry the alternator from it's mounts. It takes a fair bit of force but DO NOT hit your alternator with a pin/hammer. I ended up using a small tire iron and working it out by prying against the engine block. It will come.
Now that your alternator is removed from it's mounts you have the glorious task of trying to get it out of the vehicle. Some books and online resources will simply say to pull it through the hole in the fender well. After trying every which way you'll realize this simply isn't going to happen, curse, and start hunting online for a solution.
The solution is not to remove an axle or stabilizer.
The easiest way is to take the alternator out from underneath the vehicle. The easiest way to do that is to move the exhaust out of your way. This is not nearly as difficult as it sounds.
There are three bolts which hold your turbo header on to the back of the turbo itself. Remove these three bolts. The two top ones are pretty simple, the bottom one is a bit of a pain. All are 1/2" or 13mm.
Once removed you'll have a little play with the exhaust but you'll also need to remove the two front rubber hangers. This actually took quite a bit of effort and force but once you get them off you're almost home.
This next bit is important. Do yourself a favor and remove the front-most Oxygen sensor. The last thing you want to do is break the sensors or the wires. There is a second sensor right behind the catalytic converter, you can remove this but it's not necessary, just make sure it's wire is out of the way and you have plenty of slack for the next step.
Now you should have plenty of play in the front of your exhaust system. Gently pull the exhaust down (be sure the turbo header is pulled out of the mounting bolts) and hold it away from the passenger side of the vehicle.
There is a gap where you removed one of the exhaust hangers that the alternator can fit through. Be very patient, you'll need to try a few different angles but it WILL drop.
Repair or replace the alternator and do this process in reverse. Getting the alternator back in it's mounts is a chore, but she'll go. I had to use a 2x4 to pry it into place.
I did this job in 15 degree weather, outside, in Maine. If I can do it, you can do it. Just be patient.

Posted on Jan 08, 2011

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Check that altinator belt is tight enough, it should be able to move 1/2" up and down on the side with greatest distance between pulleys, if the belt is tight enough the alternator may be damaged or faulty. Hope this helps

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Blowing blue smoke is NOT an issue with the turbo, it is an issue with either piston rings or valve guides. You need an engine overhaul.

May 21, 2015 | 1999 Saab 9-5

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Your car is getting tired and may need a ring job. There is a possibility of the valve guide seals needing replacement also. Pretty soon, the engine will smoke continuously even when not letting off the gas.
If you like the car, for a few "car payments", you can have your engine rebuilt.

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