Bleeding the Brakes
EXCEPT HYDRO-BOOST OR ABS(see Figures
1, 2, 3 and 4)
To bleed the brakes on a vehicle equipped with ABS,
please refer to the ABS bleeding procedure in this section.
brake system must be bled when any brake line is disconnected or there
is air in the system.
Never bleed a wheel cylinder when a drum is removed.
Fig. 1: Connect one end of a clear plastic tube to the
bleeder screw and submerge the other end in clean brake fluid
Fig. 2: Have an assistant pump, then hold in the brake pedal,
while you bleed each wheel
Fig. 3: Using the combination valve depressor-R/V Series
Fig. 4: Using the combination valve depressor-C/K Series
Clean the master cylinder of excess dirt and remove the cylinder
cover and the diaphragm.
Fill the master cylinder to the proper level. Check the fluid
level periodically during the bleeding process and replenish it as
necessary. Do not allow the master cylinder to run dry, or you will have
to start over.
Before opening any of the bleeder screws, you may want to give
each one a shot of penetrating solvent. This reduces the possibility of
breakage when they are unscrewed.
Make sure your assistant presses the brake pedal to the floor slowly.
Pressing too fast will cause air bubbles to form in the fluid.
Attach a length of vinyl hose to the bleeder screw of the brake to
be bled. Insert the other end of the hose into a clear jar half full of
clean brake fluid, so that the end of the hose is beneath the level of
fluid. The correct sequence for bleeding is to work from the brake
farthest from the master cylinder to the one closest; right rear, left
rear, right front, left front.
The combination valve must be held open during the bleeding
process. A clip, tape, or other similar tool (or an assistant) will hold
the metering pin in.
Depress and release the brake pedal three or four times to exhaust
any residual vacuum.
Have an assistant push down on the brake pedal and hold it down.
Open the bleeder valve slightly. As the pedal reaches the end of its
travel, close the bleeder screw and release the brake pedal. Repeat this
process until no air bubbles are visible in the expelled fluid.
Repeat this procedure at each of the brakes. Remember to check the
master cylinder level occasionally. Use only fresh fluid to refill the
master cylinder, not the stuff bled from the system.
When the bleeding process is complete, refill the master cylinder,
install its cover and diaphragm, and discard the fluid bled from the
HYDRO-BOOSTThe system should be bled
whenever the booster is removed and installed.
Remove the electrical lead to the fuel solenoid terminal on the
injection pump before cranking the engine.
Fill the power steering pump until the fluid level is at the base
of the pump reservoir neck. Disconnect the battery lead from the
Jack up the front of the car, turn the wheels all the way to the
left, and crank the engine for a few seconds.
Check steering pump fluid level. If necessary, add fluid to the
"ADD" mark on the dipstick.
Lower the car, connect the battery lead, and start the engine.
Check fluid level and add fluid to the "ADD" mark, as necessary. With
the engine running, turn the wheels from side to side to bleed air from
the system. Make sure that the fluid level stays above the internal pump
The Hydro-Boost system should now be fully bled. If the fluid is
foaming after bleeding, stop the engine, let the system set for one
hour, then repeat the second part of Step 4.
The preceding procedures should be effective in removing the
excess air from the system, however sometimes air may still remain
trapped. When this happens the booster may make a gulping noise when the
brake is applied. Lightly pumping the brake pedal with the engine
running should cause this noise to disappear. After the noise stops,
check the pump fluid level and add as necessary.
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