Question about 2002 Subaru Outback

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My 2002 Subaru Outback starts fine but after a few minutes it seems to lose power and will stall. The plugs, wires and distributor were just replaced and the fuel filter was replaced prior. I tried to hold the accelerator at 2000 rpm but it seems to lose fuel flow? I can rev it and it might stutter then rev, if I drive it then it will backfire and shake and stall? Could it be the fuel pump? Seems to get gas with no problem if I rev it.

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Posted on Jul 02, 2017

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 2001 subaru outback shake when braking

this problem is due to out of true front disk brake rotors (u need 2), your best bet is to replace them at this mileage Here is a part number and price from rockauto.com PRICE $28.79 (US)

ACDELCO Part # 18A346 {replaces 18027946 #18027946, 19171459}

Posted on Apr 27, 2009

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you need manual gauges to do a pressure test

Posted on May 08, 2009

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SOURCE: needdrive belt diagram for Subaru outback 3.0

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Posted on May 23, 2009

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SOURCE: 2000 Subaru Outback wont start.. no fuel.

Are your injectors firing into the engine? You can buy a test kit to double check that. Is there spark at the plugs?

I had the same problem sorta with my civic it turns out after doing timing belt water pump, and many gaskets i had a huge vaccum leak.

Also check your fuel lines to see if they are loosing pressure somewhere

Posted on Aug 07, 2009

techbuster
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SOURCE: how do u put timing belt for 2001 subaru outback

This is not your average timing belt replacement due to being a double overhead cam that is also an interferance fit.First remove cooling fans.2-Loosen drive belts and remove.3-Remove crank pully.4-Remove timing covers.You will see 4 cam sprockets.Theses sprockets contain single and double referance marks.You will be using the double referance marks.Rotate engine until the double referance marks are facing each other.This is to be done the same way that the American autos timing Chain systems are done but you will have 2 small double lines to line up not dots.The next step is the most important step and is of utmost imortance.THE CAMSHAFT HAVE TO BE LOCKED IN PLACE--FAILURE TO DO SO CAN RESULT IN BENT VALVES.The cam sprocket holders can be bought or rented.You can make your own as well by making 2 wedges with bolt through the middle.Slip in between sprockets and tighten enough to hold sprockets.Do not use excessive torque while tightening wedges sprockets are not made of steel but rather a composite material.Next you will have to remove the tenioner.The tensioner has to be retracted and pin istalled to hold in retracted position.The tension device has to be retracted with care or will be damaged.You can not exceed 50 pounds pressure on the plunger.The simplest method is to reract while still in vehicle, it takes 15 minutes to properly retract the plunger.By pulling up on the tensioner by hand with about 18 pounds of force --50 will be exerted at the plunger.When fully retracted insert pin to hold in reracted position.Next check to make sure that cam wedges are holding and no sprocket are trying to move,when satisfied remove one of the rollers at the bottom on the side where you left hand would be standing in front.Pull off belt.Replacement belt will have referance marksone line will go to crank sprocket face up others will line up with other sprocket marks.Reinstall roller followed by tensioner then pull pin you have holding tenioner retracted.Remove wedges.Reinstall covers fans belts.Do not be intimitaded by this replacement.Everything is very easy to get to.Be sure cams are locked and that damage is not done to tensioner and it is straight forward.

Posted on Nov 06, 2009

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i think this should cure your problem
later paul

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