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In what pattern do you use when taking heads off on a 350 small block?

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I have always drained the antifreze completly down first, then, remove the exhaust manifolds from the sides of the motor, then disconnect the throttle linkage, and the fuel ilne, then remove the spark plug wires, and number them for proper installation, then remove the intake manifold, and remove valve covers, then remove the bolts that hold the heads on, and remove heads from block, you might have to tap the heads with a rubber mallet to free them up, installation is reverse, but you will have to tightened all of the bolts back down in sequence and according to the specifications of the 350 engine that you are working on, hope that this information has helped you.

Posted on Apr 05, 2011


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Depending on where you live can vary in price, but $700 would be a starting price. The labor involved with that is the problem.

Posted on Mar 02, 2010

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I have a 305 (5.0) engine my problem is the starter wont work i got it off of a 1985 camaro and it was made for a 350 but the motor i bought come out of a 79 oldsmobile and i got it in my 86 trans am with...

There are two different size flywheels used on Chevy engines.The straight across bolt pattern is for the small diameter flywheel the staggered pattern for the large flywheel.The block is drilled for both starter patterns.The F- bodies in 1986 came with a small flywheel-so you should need a starter with the straight across pattern.The depth doesn't change ,just the distance away from the crank.

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Depending on where you live can vary in price, but $700 would be a starting price. The labor involved with that is the problem.

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What engine do I have?

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Looking for 2.5 engine on 86 fiero vin r

I just checked Ebay, and there are two listed. You might try Craigs List.

(Tips from me:
Port the Vortec head. Open the Intake and Exhaust ports, by smoothing them out, and smoothing the casting sprue lines out.

Put the Intake gasket, and the Exhaust gasket on the head, (After marking the area with Prussian Blue)
Scribe the opening of the gasket, onto the head, then match the ports to the scribed lines.

You also should round the valve guides top surface. (Where the valve stem meets the guide) There is a square edge that needs to be rounded. This square edge interferes with the fuel/air mixture, as the sharp edge breaks the fuel/air mixture down into droplets.
You want to keep the fuel/air mixture atomized, Not droplets.

Also narrow the casting that comes up the side of the valve guide. (Squared off shape that follows up the guide, and makes the Vortec shape swirl shape in the Intake port) Narrow it to more of a small rounded edge.

Do not polish the Bottom of the intake ports. Leave them as a rough casting. Smooth, and polish the Sides, and Top of the Intake port. (Do not get Extreme! You'll go into the water jacket with your die grinder! Factory may have had a casting shift that day. Just smooth things up)

Makes a nice swirl pattern for the fuel/air mixture.
If you polish the floor, (Bottom), of the Intake port, you will create Two swirl patterns, and they will collide with each other, making droplets again. (They cancel each other out. You want one nice swirl pattern flowing through the Intake port)

I can bring my 1985 Fiero up to 155Mph, (On dragstrip set up for this, tires, and proper safety equipment used). I can also 'Keep my foot' out of the throttle, and get 45 miles to the gallon on the highway.

You can use flat top 350 Chevy pistons. The 2.5 Vin R Fiero engine has a 4 inch bore like a small block Chevy. The pistons can be put on the Fiero rods. Same wrist pin size. The piston drops down into the engine block, about .030 below deck height.

(Wrist pin to piston crown height, is .030 shorter with 350 Chevy piston, compared to stock Fiero piston. You can buy 4 - 350 Chevy pistons AND rings, compared to the price of just the rings, for a Fiero!)

(Thirty thousandths. Real close to 1/32nd of an inch. .03125 is 1/32nd of an inch)

Fiero's have dish head pistons, so the drop in deck height, and using a Flat Top 350 Chevy piston equals out. (Better flame travel with flat top piston. Better burn, more power. Uses more of the fuel/air mixture than a dish head design)
If you can't afford to have them balanced, use a beam scale, and balance them yourself.

I can bring my 1985 Fiero up to 155Mph, (On dragstrip set up for this, and proper safety equipment used). I can also 'Keep my foot' out of the throttle, and get => 45 miles to the gallon on the highway. (Throttle Body Fuel Injection. TBI)

Makes a V6 Fiero cringe!

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1 Answer

Head Swap

The 2.8 is a 60 degree engine, and the 4.3 a 90 degree engine. Meaning the bank of the cylinders in relation to the center line of the engine. If you were asking about a 3.8 and 4.3 I'd say yes you could, as each of these is based on a 305, and 350 respectively. I don't believe the 2.8 and 4.3 have the same cylinder head bolt patterns to allow correct mounting to the block. Additionally you have to be sure about valve opening clearance requirements using the larger cylinder head because of the smaller bore of the 2.8. The 4.3 heads have larger valves, and may not clear the block surrounding the bore. The chamber of the 4.3 heads might extend onto the flat surface of the 2.8 block which is an engineering no-no due to hot spots/dieseling and other problems you would design into this monsterous mating.
I like the way you think though. Chevrolet has been doing this since they introduced the first small block back in the 50's.
You are right about the 2.8 being a dud. I had one, and it couldn't get out of its own way. You might be better finding a good low mileage 4.3, and grab the mounts along with the vehicle you got the engine from. Also be sure you get the computer, and harness. If that vehicle is injected and computer controlled, and yours is not, there would be a whole nother host of issues to deal with that you don't sound like you would wanting to encounter. In that case you might as well drop a small block in, because the issues would be similar.

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I need the torque specs and sequence on a 1998 chevy 350 vortec

Vortecs are a little different that old school small blocks, grab a Haynes or Chiltons, the cross patterns and specs are simply diagramed. Vortec, as any really, start with 25# then 45# and then final torque which I believe is around 70-75# but to be sure verify with the manual. AutoZones, Murry's, Adavance auto all carry the books, Cheap insurance.

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350 chevy small block

Aftermarket intake, camshaft and either a good set of heads or port/polish what you have. If you go with a cam, go with more adv. duration and duration and .050. I like running a .525 lift, .230 dur. @ .050 and .292 advertised duration. Get a good set of springs and valves. This cam should get your redline around 6200. If you're using this engine on the street, I prefer the Performer RPM with a 1" spacer. This provides plenty of velocity to the heads. If you can find a set of camel hump heads, casting number 041 you'll love those or have your heads ported. I'd run a Edlebrock 1407 carb. with this set up if you're using it on the street. If you're using this engine for strip duty as well, use a single plane intake like a Victor Jr. Professional Products have a nice selection of single plane intakes for a very low price. I've bought one myself and really liked it.

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