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I have a squeek in the back between the driveshaft and the rear differential what do you think that might be?

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It dosn't sound like a U joint although it could be try to turn the drive shaft by hand there shouldn't be any play where the joints attack to the rear carriar or the front spline that slides through the seal at the rear of the transmission tailstock Buts its more likely that its got to do with the exhuast system rubbing on the shaft its mounted on rubber look for a line that goes around
the shaft . Or it could be a squeaky shock or a bushing on the leaf spring a little WD 40 would go long way to fix tthat .Sometimes its hard to tell if your driveing exactly wherethe noise is comeing from try to notice when it happens like if your going over a bump or turning I n any case it dosn't sound like its a major problem it could even be a wheel bearing or a brake pad or shoe and it may go away on its owen but check the drive shaft to be sure its not the U joint if that goes you could get stuck somewhere

Posted on Apr 04, 2011

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Sounds like you need to lubracate your u joints Also check your Carrier bearing when lubeing. Try to turn side to side If you have much slack you need new u joints, If moves up-down may need a new carrier bearring.Best of luck to you.Hope this helps some.

Posted on Apr 04, 2011

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1 Answer

My car is making a winding noise from the rear drive shaft what do you think it is and can I fix it?


The driveshaft is probably NOT the problem - but more likely is the differential. Have the car's differential fluid checked - they will be able to tell you if it has metal filings or is low or burnt. These are not good indicators for a healthy differential. Without hearing it - it's hard to be sure though.

Rebuilding or replacing a rear end is probably not a DIY job for someone that asks others that do not know you - if you can do the job or not.

May 13, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

How do you replace rear oil seal in 1994 Isuzu Standard tranmission


Chockblock front wheels to prevent truck rolling, and jack vehicle up and place a jackstand under frame to prevent vehicle falling. Remove driveshaft, seal is now visible to be pried out for new one to be lightly tapped into place with a rubber mallet or hammer, along with a wooden block, taking care to keep new seal straight while replacing. replace driveshaft and check fluid level, lower vehicle and remove chockblocks.

Feb 13, 2015 | 1994 Isuzu Pickup

1 Answer

Why does my 4 wheel drive not work all the time?


Elaine,

not work, do tell what makes you think it dont work (a lamp) or tires slipping or dead tires. (by tires mean that and traction)??????????

what mode fails, of the many, and where.???????



first off, we dont know what your tires are touching.

on road, or off road. pavement or ICE or snow.

that matters big time . (you read manual and match MODE to Road)

your lost operators guide explains all that, right?

eg: how and when to use, 4wd, its all there. I promise.

ControlTrac 4-wheel-drive system



here are the mode. which one , gives you problems.



quote ford with comments.



What are the modes, and how do they differ?

(note this is the operational behavior of a 2008 Ford Expedition. Newer and older Expeditions will vary only slightly)



2H 2-wheel-drive with high range gearing (1.00:1) Rear-wheel-drive capability,

2-wheel electronic traction control system is enabled



4A 4-wheel-drive Auto with high range gearing (1.00:1) Full-time all-wheel-drive capability, ((best on pavement or any time)

Electronically adjusted torque split to front & rear wheels, Electronically variable center differential,

Front driveshaft & rear primary driveshaft allowed rotational speed difference,

4-wheel electronic traction control system is enabled



4H 4-wheel-drive with high range gearing (1.00:1) Part-time 4-wheel-drive capability, (not for dry pavement EVER)

Continuous 50/50 torque split to front & rear wheels, Electronically locked center differential,

Front driveshaft & rear primary driveshaft mechanically locked with no rotational speed difference,

4-wheel electronic traction control system is enabled



4L 4-wheel-drive with low range gearing (2.64:1) Part-time 4-wheel-drive capability, (off road usage, mostly)

Continuous 50/50 torque split to front & rear wheels, Electronically locked center differential,

Front driveshaft & rear primary driveshaft mechanically locked with no rotational speed difference,

4-wheel electronic traction control system is enabled, ESC and RSC are disabled



In 4A mode the center differential is electronically-controlled and rear drive wheel bias. The on-board computer monitors for any sign of rear drive wheel slip (loss of traction)

If loss of traction is detected, the center differential is told to send a share of the engine\'s torque to the front drive wheels. It will not let the front driveshaft turn at the same speed as the rear driveshaft.



What about traction management?

1997-2002 model Ford Expeditions offered an optional limited-slip rear differential (LSD). A conventional open rear differential was standard along with the conventional open front differential and the electronic locking center differential.

comment with out LSD, one tire can spin, on say ice.

but the other 3 tires dont, in full time.

Jul 04, 2014 | 2003 Ford Expedition

2 Answers

Need to replace the seal at the differential


There are several seals for the differential. The pinion seal is towards the driveshaft. The rear cover is on the back of the differential.

The rear cover seal is a gasket and can be replaced by removing the rear cover and scraping off the old gasket. Some mechanics make their own gasket out of a liberal application of atv gasket compound. Other mechanics use a stamped gasket and may apply a small amount of cement to one side of the gasket to hold it to the cover.

The cover is bolted on by Torx head fittings.

The pinion seal is another matter. The driveshaft needs to come off. The flange needs to come away from the differential and the seal rides the shaft going into the differential. Some housings require a removal tool.

With either seal, you need to determine the type of differential you have. Limited -slip requires an additive to work in the standard lube. Some require only synthetic gear lube as well as the additive.

A cover gasket is not very hard to replace. The pinion seal can be more difficult. Price the repair.

Do not reuse the differential fluid.

Feb 19, 2013 | 1995 Mercury Grand Marquis

1 Answer

How do I take off my drive shaft? When i accelerate, I hear a squeeking noise and i believe its my rear driveshaft. I need to take it off and bring it to a machine shop to get fixed but how do i take it...


There should be 4 bolts on the rear differential side of the driveshaft...remove these 4 bolts along with the c shaped saddles and put them aside where they won't get lost...the driveshaft will drop down..then all you need to do is pull the other end out of the transmission/transfer case. the transmission side has a splined shaft...don't worry about aligning it up when you get the d-shaft back from the ,mach shop..all you need to do to realign it is to jack up one side of the rear so the yoke on the differential will line up to the shaft ..make sure you block the wheels so the truck won't move. put everything back in reverse order as mentioned above...make sure the bolts on the rear saddles are tight(or else the driveshaft may come off)

Dec 22, 2010 | 1995 Chevrolet Blazer

1 Answer

Just wondering is the drive shaft is located in or around the differential- my jeep was smoking with a foul odor coming from underneath the vehicle and I was told by 2 mechanics that I need to replace the...


I own an 02' Jeep Liberty. It is either the differential, or the drive shaft.
Is it the front or rear driveshaft? Does the Jeep drive? If the driveshaft
was bad, it wouldn't move, so I'm assuming he's screwing you,since driveshafts don't smoke.LOL. If your front or rearend lube has come all
out or very low, you could get smoking from the diffs,especially if the fluid hit's your exhaust. look under the jeep, to see if any fluid is leaking
from the front or rear driveshafts?good luck.

Mar 29, 2010 | 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

My 2004 Mercury Mountaineer will go into gear but will not move. What could be the problem


Your rear emergency brakes could be hung up. Especially if a parking valet or someone else parked it recently.

You need to jack up both rear wheels and then put your car into neutral with the motor OFF. If the rear wheels can not be manually turned it is either the emergency brakes, the differential or the transmission.

The emergency brakes require removing the back tires and rotors. If it is still locked, then it is either the differential or the trans. The driveshaft connects the trans to the differential so remove the driveshaft. If the differential turns without the driveshaft, then the trans is locked up. If the differential does not turn the problem is inside the differential.

Nov 18, 2009 | 2004 Mercury Mountaineer

1 Answer

No fluid in transfercase now its squeeking even after i refilled it squeeking as rear driveshaft roatates


if the noise is from the case then you are going to have to get it overhauled, are u sure the driveshaft Universal Joints aren't the source of the noise?

Nov 09, 2009 | 1997 Chevrolet Tahoe

1 Answer

Rear differential driveshaft seal leak.


Hello,you need to remove driveshaft to be able to get to the nut.Remove the nut (MAY BE VERY TIGHT) and pull the yoke or flange as you called it out & you can pop old seal out & new seal in.You may want to smear a tiny bit of grease or vasoline on outside of seal for easier installation & also on the rubber part of seal so itwon't get damaged when you re-install the yoke.Hope this helps.

Dec 29, 2008 | 1988 Isuzu Trooper 2 Door

1 Answer

1999 sierra 4x4 driveshaft squeek


rear drive shaft steady bearing rubber mount gone

Jun 25, 2008 | 2000 GMC New Sierra 1500

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