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I have a 1969 Camaro Z28, I've gone thru 6 master cylinders and when everything is said and done, I start up car and pedal goes to floor no brakes, I've also changed out to new wheel cylinders, new calipers, new brake lines, master cylinders are either re-man or new, doesn't make any difference, none have worked so far, do you know what my problem could be?

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Power brake booster more likely.check engine vacuum you need at least 15 hgs vacuum before power brakes will work.if you have high lift camshaft that will cause low engine vacuum no power brakes.

Posted on Apr 04, 2011

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Brakes,pedal goes to floor ?

Check your brake master reservoirr,if empty,then you ha ve a leak.

Oct 22, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

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I put power brakes on my 1967 Chevrolet Malibu. I've been bleeding the brakes over and over and still my pedal goes to the floor. What can I do?

Hi Eddie:
Let's see what we can do to try to figure this out. First, tell me about the brakes. Disc front? Drum back? All drum?
If there are drums, the shoes have to be manually adjusted with the little threaded spreader bar. Discs self adjust.
When you're bleeding the brakes, keep lots of fluid in the master cylinder reservoir, and start with the front wheel nearest the master cylinder, then the other front, then the drivers side rear, then the other one. The idea is to try to avoid getting any air trapped in a line. Once done it right, the brake pedal should have a firm STOP when applied.
If the pedal continues to go to the floor, I'd be concerned about the master cylinder.
Hope this helps

Apr 25, 2015 | Chevrolet Malibu Cars & Trucks

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My clutch goes all the way to the floor I have a standard Camaro 96 3.8

clutch pedals are suposed to go all the way to the floor , you sure you dont mean brake pedal (cus thats bad ! ) clutches should travel all the way to floor and release the "grab" of the engine about 2/3 down , this way they are more smoothly allowing shifting thru the gears and not jerking as you shift thru the gears , if clutch pedal does not start to "grab" the engines power by 2/3 off the floor and fully "grab"its power all the way up(slipping) ,and you have a hydraulic clutch (96's do) then the clutch disk may require replacement or there is a oil leak in the clutch/master/slave cylinder , look for small oil leaks from under car in area of foot pedals
clutches should be replaced as an assembly that includes , disk ,pressure plate, throwout bearing , with engine side clutch plate magnafluxed for heat cracks and any hydraulic oil leaks replaced or repaired

Mar 12, 2015 | 1996 Chevrolet Camaro

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I replaced the clutch master cylinder and the braided brake line in a 2000 camaro ss and I'm trying to bleed the system. I know how to do it but I've done the procedure 20 times and there is still no

You may have got a bad master cylinder.It happened to me before.I had to get 3 of them before i got a good one.Mine was on a full size jeep though.

Mar 21, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

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So I just changed the clutch master cylinder and the braided brake line in my 2000 camaro ss and am trying to bleed the system. The routine I'm using is typical. Pump the pedal 30 times keep it depres

you have someone helping you right? cuz you cant do it yourself, and the brakes need to be pumped only enough to get a solid midway stop of pedal travel, and with the brake still depressed by your assistant, you open the bleeder a bit until the pedal goes to the floor, you tighten bleeder, they then release brake pedal and pump it up again, rinse, repeat, until there is no spongy feel in brake pedal

Mar 21, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

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96 z28 dash brake light is on

could be low on fluid
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Oct 19, 2012 | 1995 Chevrolet Camaro

1 Answer

I have a 03 ford taurus the break pedal gose to the floor after changing the rear breaks and the front pads and after changing the master cylinder? what else could b the problem

You've done major work and now you'll need to completely bleed air out of the system, to get the fluid to go all the way through. You may also need to adjust the rear brake shoes.

First, bleed the Master cylinder to get fluid through it. This should have been done before installation. Loosen the lines at the M. Cylinder and fill up the reservior with brake fluid. Pump the brake pedal slowly with the cover on the M. Cylinder to prevent fluid from splashing out. Once you've got fluid coming through the M.Cylinder, tighten the brake lines at the M. Cylinder.

Bleeding the brakes is a 2 person operation. You always bleed the brake the farthest from the master cylinder, then the next, the next, and finally the drivers front brake which is the closest to the M. Cylinder.

If you are unfamiliar with this process, you need to remember that you can't let the brake fluid get low in the M. Cylinder, or you have to start all over when air gets back into the lines.

When one person pumps the brakes, after several pumps hold the pedal down as far as it will go and keep pressing to the floor as the other person loosens the bleeder valve. Don't let off of the pedal before tightening the bleeder valve. Then repeat until all of the air is gone.
Teamwork and communication. Both of my wives were able to assist me in bleeding brakes.

You will have to add fluid and repeat this process until you have a firm pedal.

One man bleeder valves work if used properly, but who tells you what is happening at the other end while you're pressing the pedal?

Good luck.

Mar 28, 2012 | 2003 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

Brake pedal goes to floor

there is still air in your hydraulic lines somewhere bleed the system with a pressurised power bleeder and you will get instant results

May 01, 2009 | Chevrolet Camaro Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Brake goes to floor on 1978 Vlokswagon

OK, 1st I'll start off w/ I've never worked on a 78 vw before, but have done many brake jobs,
Have u adjusted the brake shoes? If they are way out of adjustment, you won't have a firm pedal, it'll just go to the floor. You should bleed the master cylinder before installing, but I'm not sure if the vw would be different than other vehicles in that regard. Sorry to go over what u covered already, but I assume when you bled the brakes, u started at the bleeder that is farthest away from the master cyl, working your way to the closest last? U kept the master cyl reservoir filled enough so it didn't draw in air while bleeding? U pumped the pedal 3 times, approx. half way down, holding the pedal half way down on the 3rd pump, while someone opened the bleeder, then shut the bleeder before the flow stopped? Sorry to go thru all this that u probably already have done and know, just trying to cover all bases. Let me know if any of this helps. countrycurt0

Sep 29, 2008 | 1998 Volkswagen Beetle

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