I have to much coolant pressure. seems to be circulating. I have new radiator cap. I've Tried burping it several different ways. However still have no heat. I can blow air thru the the heater hoses with no problem. I'm stuck.
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This instructable will walk you through the simple process of "burping" or getting all of the trapped air out of your cars cooling system. ... Despite all the complaints about DexCool coolant, I have never had an issue. ... in that way, my cars are as reliable as possible regarding cooling ...
Aug 13, 2012 - Uploaded by JerryRigEverything
Let me know if that link doesn't work. Anytime you change the radiator, change the thermostat, drain your ...
1. The radiator cap if working correctly it will release pressure in the system provided the cap you have is the correct pressure setting. If you are having a problem with pressure then replace the cap with a new radiator cap with the correct pressure setting. Do not use a cap with a pressure setting other than the original equipment pressure spec. So you do not go to the parts store and buy any radiator cap on the shelf that fits because they come with different pressure ratings and some of these will be totally unsuitable for your car.
2. If the pressure valve is stuck in the "old" cap the pressure release system will not work.
Air pockets in the cooling system can definitely cause overheating and can retard coolant flow through the system. If you are draining the radiator to replace the coolant or replacing the radiator you need to follow the correct procedures for bleeding air out of the system for that particular engine after coolant refilling. Some engines have bleeder screws on the cooling system to assist in the air bleeding procedure and some don't.
There are various causes for overheating so don't assume it will necessarily be solved by bleeding any remaining air from the cooling system and replacing the radiator cap with one that works.
Other causes can be...........
1. Faulty cooling system thermostat. (Replace the Thermostat)
2. Faulty water pump, especially if the impellers have corroded away or have disintegrated in the case of those design genius water pumps with plastic impellers. (Replace the water pump)
3. Cooling fans not working and if so the cause needs to be tracked. Check that your fans are kicking in. If the engine is overheating the fans should be running because they will switch on when the coolant reaches a specific temp and well before the coolant gets excessively hot.
4. A partial blockage in the coolant passages inside the engine but not in the radiator if you have a new one. If the coolant is not changed at the required intervals(frequently the case with many owners) or is over diluted with water you can get a build up of debris. If products like stop leak have been used in the system this can create similar problems with partial blockages inside the engine coolant passages.
5. A compression leak into the cooling system.
If you have bled air from the system and have continuous air bubbles in the cooling system I would suspect a compression leak. In that event a basic leak down test will show if you have compression gasses leaking into the cooling system and from which cylinder(s). The spark plug is removed and compressed air is forced into the cylinder via the spark plug fitting and air bubbles will show up in the coolant of there is a leak into the cooling system.
Have the problem with overheating addressed immediately. Running the engine with an overheat condition will cause expensive engine damage many times the cost of fixing the overheating issue.
If the bearing failed, it will howl or be noisy. If the pump seal failed, it will be leaking coolant from behind the pulley- through the "weep" hole at the bottom of the pump. If the impellers on the pump that push water through are worn down, it won't leak or be noisy, but your coolant circulation will be impaired, and maybe critically impaired if worn down severely - some pumps use plastic impellers that wear quicker than metal ones. One way to check is with radiator cap off the warm engine (so the thermostat is open and coolant will flow from engine through the top hose into the radiator) and look inside the radiator to see if coolant is flowing in through the top hose. If unsure, squeeze the top hose as tight as you can to stop flow through hose, then release. You may feel the surge of coolant behind your hand as you release hose and you should see the coolant in the radiator moving. If still unsure, have a tech or mechanic check for coolant circulation. Be very careful opening radiator cap on a warm engine. Turn engine off first. You may want to use a heavy rag on top of cap. Turn cap to first release and wait until any steam or pressure is gone. If coolant is hot it may scald you, and it may be under enough pressure that turning cap to first release will cause hot coolant to start coming out the radiator filler neck where cap sits. When pressure is gone go ahead and remove cap (turn some more to second release-then remove cap). With cap off, start engine and check circulation. Good luck.
I don't mean to sound insulting at all but I'm not certain what your experience is with engines. Is it possible you put the thermostat in upside down? Do you feel pressure on the top hose when you squeeze it? Does it feel pressurized? If so then the water pump is doing it's job. Easiest way I have seen to "burp" a system after doing a coolant change or thermostat swap is to get one of the radiator caps that has a vent lever built into the top of it. This way once the engine is hot you can slightly pull that lever up and let it vent out the air a little bit at a time. Another way would be to to leave the radiator cap off. Start the engine and squeeze the bottom hose to burp the air to the top of the system. Hope this helps.
Does the vehicle overheat on the road? If it does and pushes big burps of coolant into the reserve tank then you could have a head gasket leak. Usually what happens with a head gasket leak is that the engine will often start and run normally but will soon start to push coolant out in a kind of foamy burp as the combustion gasses that accumulate in the engine block force their way out. You can have a small head gasket leak that allows combustion gasses to escape into the cooling system without getting coolant back into the engine and often the first symptoms of this kind of a leak is a motor that suddenly overheats, the heater quits blowing hot air and after a short while everything returns to normal for a day or so. As the leak worsens however it may keep pushing coolant out of the reserve tank with a cool or cold engine as the pressure builds to quickly for the reserve tank to handle it fully. Having said that if you have a perfectly good cooling system that is hot and take off the radiator cap it will spray blistering coolant coolant all over so never remove the cap from a warm or hot cooling system! Most additives won't stop a head gasket leak as there is just too much pressure for them to "stick" in the leak and they just get forced out of source of the leak. It's rare but you could have a water pump that's not circulating enough coolant around but usually you have different symptoms than this.
Aaaghhhh. you probably have an air bubble in the cylinder head. not good. poor as much antifreeze as you can into the rad (make sure the inside temperature is set to hot, that way any air in your heater core will be flushed through.) You need coolant to be in the hoses before you worry about the fan. Also, you can try "burping" the coolant system by filling up the vehicle (when its COLD) so that the coolant level is flush with the top of the rad. then place cap back on. start the motor. SLOWLY unscrew the cap to the half way mark. ensure not coolant squirting out. If okay, unscrew all of the way and check coolant level. fill as needed. try this, if you still can't get the fan to work, and you still don't have coolant circulating in the upper hose, here's my email
You need to burp the radiator. When you drained it and refilled the new one, you likely have air bubbles caught behind the thermostat. What you need to do is to jack up the car so that the thermostat is facing forward and is thus raised. Start the car and let it run until it's about 3/4 of the way to overheating (this is how you know the bubbles have circulated around to the thermostat. Then shut the car off and let it cool off. Once it's cooled down enough to open the radiator cap, open it. The pressure drop from opening the cap will allow the thermostat to open and the bubbles will "burp" out of the radiator. Then put the car back on the ground, top off the coolant, adn you're good to go.
Yep, you have to burp the radiator. Jack up the car so that the radiator cap is elevated. With the coolant topped off, start the car and let it run until it's about 3/4 of the way to overheating. Then shut it down and go have a beer. When it cools off enough to safely open the radiator cap, do so, and any air trapped in the system will bleed out.
What you're doing is circulating the coolant and the air bubbles inside. The bubbles get lodged behind the thermostat and stay there, keeping it from opening (this causes the car to heat up). When you later pop the cap off the radiator, the pressure is vented from the system, the thermostat opens, and the bubbles pass through. They'll work their way to the radiator (since you've got it elevated) and pop out the open cap opening.
Your coolant level will likely drop somewhat after doing this, as the air bubbles will be gone and the space they took up in the system is now available. You may need to add a little more coolant, so top if off (with the car back on the ground) and recap the radiator, fill the overflow to the marked point on the tank, and you're good to go.